[arsenic]

No, nothing is wrong with EFI. I mean when something GOES wrong with EFI, it gets expensive fast. I'm totally 50/50 on EFI vs. carbureted. EFI is great, it's like totally foolproof. It does exactly what it's programed to do. Carbs are easy to fix. If you know what you're doing, which I certainly do. You can make carburetors function how you want and always keep them running in tip top shape. If EFI has a problem, you are fucked. There isn't anything you can do. You'll be paying someone with the proper equipment. Don't you think if there was anything you could do, I'd be rebuilding throttle bodies by now? I mean I can make them pretty, but that's about it.

[porschefan]

Bike's on hold, family matters have come to the forefront. Eventually I'm going to find and fix the vacuum leak, and do an Idle Drop. I'll keep an eye on the float seats to make sure the leaks are gone, and may dip the carbs again if I can't get the Idle right.

Then I'll ride it, and address the clutch as necessary. The valves can be done by a shop at the end of the season.

Or I'll take it to a shop for all of it.

[arsenic]

Or I'll take it to a shop for all of it.

Good luck with that one. Have you read anything on this forum ever?

[porschefan]

Rode my buddies brand new FZ6R home from the dealer for him this evening. I was pleasantly surprised. I fear it's too much bike for a beginner though. Oh well.

I'm giving myself a week to piss with the carbs, idle, and vacuum leak. After that it goes back together and on the road.

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[porschefan]

Still haven't gotten it running. I went to do an idle drop about a week and a half ago, the carburetors had gelled. I pulled everything out including the butterfly's and boiled and dipped them this time. They are clean now (and lacking a bit of anodizing...) I'm trying to find somebody to take my money and tune it. I'm in central Ohio, so if anybody has any recommendations...

Also cleaned and oiled the chain. much shinier now.

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[Badfaerie]

If you are looking to pay someone fairly to work on it, pm MD86. He's in Ohio somewhere, Cincinnati maybe? He's unemployed right now and can use some extra money I'm sure. What he doesn't know about Kats he knows who to call and ask.

If you aren't willing or able to pay enough to make it worth someone's time I don't know what to tell you.

[md86]

Still haven't gotten it running. I went to do an idle drop about a week and a half ago, the carburetors had gelled. I pulled everything out including the butterfly's and boiled and dipped them this time. They are clean now (and lacking a bit of anodizing...) I'm trying to find somebody to take my money and tune it. I'm in central Ohio, so if anybody has any recommendations...

Also cleaned and oiled the chain. much shinier now.

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How "central" is ya ? I'm at the topside of 275 . If you can get it here , I'd be happy to take your money to help .

[porschefan]

That's about two hours or I would bring it out.

And yeah, I'm not looking for charity work. I'll pay about half the going rate for shop labor; $40 an hour equivalent. More or less for the job depending on what is actually involved.

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[md86]

That's about two hours or I would bring it out.

And yeah, I'm not looking for charity work. I'll pay about half the going rate for shop labor; $40 an hour equivalent. More or less for the job depending on what is actually involved.

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Must be up above C-bus or something ... THat's less than 1.5hrs from here .

[porschefan]

I'm 30 minutes east of Columbus, 45 minutes from downtown.

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I've got some appointments at CCHMC at the end of the month. I think it's Friday the 28th. If it's ridable maybe we can hook up then.

I really need an experienced set of eyes and ears to tell me what it's doing.

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[porschefan]

I put about 150 miles on the bike yesterday. It still has the same issues as before I pulled it apart originally, maybe worse. I'm pretty disappointed at the moment.

I have to crack the throttle when turning it over to get it to start now, no idea why that is.

The choke is still "touchy"

It vibrates like a demon between 3600~5000 rpm, most noticeable around 4400 rpm. As others have described, it feels like the engine is going to stall, though I don't seem to notice a loss in torque / power. I do not believe for an instant that any of the Katana's should do this, even if they all do. A building full of Japanese engineers did not produce a motor like that. Of note: the vibration is felt most severely in the right foot peg.

1st gear is still "weird" I seem to have no power at 5000 rpm plus. It doesn't feel or act like the clutch is slipping. My guess is it's % of throttle and power band. I'm getting to 5000 rpm so quick in first gear that I don't have the throttle cracked much at all, and as I roll on more throttle I'm transitioning between jets and not "hitting it" right.

it has a sort of "stutter" at idle, I assume this is the yet unidentified vacuum leak.

It has plenty of power and will do 120mph without trying.

It doesn't seem to bog down any more, other than the 1st gear issue.

As of I said before, I need somebody familiar with Katana's to take a look at it. If it can be fixed I'll do that. If it's just par for the bikes I'm selling it. Counseling or dissolution babe.

[Squisher]

Definitely not par.
Sounds like you still have issues with the carburetors. What to the spark plugs look like? You can "read" the color of the electrode end of the spark plug to get an idea of what is going on in the combustion chamber.
Dark black/sooty = rich
Tan/brown = right
White = lean

ETA:
My bike ran NOTICEABLY smoother after a thorough cleaning, proper jetting (aftermarket pipe) and synchronization. Your bike seems to exhibit symptoms of being either dirty or out of sync (likely both).\

If WOT operation in an upper gear (like 3rd) appears good your main jet is probably the right size. An undersized pilot jet or dirty pilot/idle passages would account for the small-throttle position performance.