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Mechanics 101 Can't get it to run right? Find a trick to add HP?
From the first oil change to completely rebuilding the engine,
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Old 07-21-2018, 02:22 AM   #1
Robertkrats
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Default carb 4 overflow leaking, vacuum leak, petcock bypass

Hello, Ive been working on 95 katana 600 cali model, since beginning of last winter, first bike ever, I bought bike under impression only need a battery, LIES I TELL YOU. but you knew that already, now I know, Ive cleaned tank, cleaned and jetted carbs, new battery, chased the emissions hoses around, installed and uninstalled, assembled and reassembled carbs wondering why only starts on starter fluid, process of elimination, (no fuel in float bowls), lack of funds and knowledge, lead me to bypass the vacuum in my petcock. by removing the diaphragm , and sealing . for test pruposes and lack of shut off valve, I didn't put one, also my undeserved feeling of confidence I had when I poured almost the entire 2 gal can in tank. tried to start turns bur not start, and gas pouring from carb 4 drain plug, so I tightened allen screw. and the leak was worse. (leaking from overflow next to the drain plug?) I have cali model, and I don't remember if I blocked vac port on carb 4 after removing diaphragm. would that cuase over flow to leak in that carb? or is the float sticking? I am new to bikes, I have never heard this bike run besides secs on starter fluid, I believe I did a good job rejetting carbs and cleaning and "spruce the gaskets by taking them out cleaning channel and flipping to use a little more "meat" of gasket. but if its not PERfect PErfect, will it still start but run bad, or will it just not start at all? im pretty good at tinkering with stuff, the katana has given me such a hard time and I wanted to ride so bad I bought a 99 cbr 600 f4, reducing funds for katana, ultimately I will buy a new petcock, but I want to hear it run NOW
….

Last edited by Robertkrats; 07-21-2018 at 05:29 AM..
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:14 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robertkrats View Post
Hello, Ive been working on 95 katana 600 cali model, since beginning of last winter, first bike ever, I bought bike under impression only need a battery, LIES I TELL YOU. but you knew that already, now I know, Ive cleaned tank, cleaned and jetted carbs, new battery, chased the emissions hoses around, installed and uninstalled, assembled and reassembled carbs wondering why only starts on starter fluid, process of elimination, (no fuel in float bowls), lack of funds and knowledge, lead me to bypass the vacuum in my petcock. by removing the diaphragm , and sealing . for test pruposes and lack of shut off valve, I didn't put one, also my undeserved feeling of confidence I had when I poured almost the entire 2 gal can in tank. tried to start turns bur not start, and gas pouring from carb 4 drain plug, so I tightened allen screw. and the leak was worse. (leaking from overflow next to the drain plug?) I have cali model, and I don't remember if I blocked vac port on carb 4 after removing diaphragm. would that cuase over flow to leak in that carb? or is the float sticking? I am new to bikes, I have never heard this bike run besides secs on starter fluid, I believe I did a good job rejetting carbs and cleaning and "spruce the gaskets by taking them out cleaning channel and flipping to use a little more "meat" of gasket. but if its not PERfect PErfect, will it still start but run bad, or will it just not start at all? im pretty good at tinkering with stuff, the katana has given me such a hard time and I wanted to ride so bad I bought a 99 cbr 600 f4, reducing funds for katana, ultimately I will buy a new petcock, but I want to hear it run NOW
….
How did you clean the carbs? Details please. Steps taken, products used, so on.

What are the A/F screws set at?

What process did you use to set the float heights, and at what setting?

Did you inspect the float needle tips?

Simply put, the most likely issue is the carbs are not right, not even close. Altering the petcock made things worse.

Krey
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Old 07-21-2018, 11:39 AM   #3
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+1

For the carb 4 issue, the drain screw there might be stripping out. If it's snug, fuel isn't supposed to leak out there.
Take a look at carbs 101 in the wiki (link to your upper left) and see if you followed the process detailed there.
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Old 07-21-2018, 01:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kreylyn View Post
How did you clean the carbs? Details please. Steps taken, products used, so on.

What are the A/F screws set at?

What process did you use to set the float heights, and at what setting?

Did you inspect the float needle tips?

Simply put, the most likely issue is the carbs are not right, not even close. Altering the petcock made things worse.

Krey
the way I cleaned the carbs was, I took the tops off, put the springs, needles, screws in black caps, and in baggyys, I removed the float bowls and all screws and jets for each carb I put in the corresponding float bowl, sprayed carb cleaner in each bowl so it would pool and left set, or put in baggys…. at the time I was trying to get the rust out of tank and one method I used was soaking in vingar, so I thought it was a good idea to soak the stripped bodys of the carbs in vinager over night... I think that caused some weird grean slim to build up, but Is gone now, after soaking and rinsing carbs, I took a brush cleaned outside, and a bike air pump, to blow air through all ports, I drilled out cap and set the a/f at the specs stated in the dynojet kit, all tips on needle valve seemed ok... when I bought the bike it came with carb repair kit, but only for 1 carb.. when I started to rebuild the carbs, I had a REALLY hard time getting 1 of the float bowls off, REALLY hard. but other 3 no problem, and by the way the carbs looked, lead me to believe only 3 carbs were cleaned prev, I don't remember if it was the 4 carb, and I realize now, that probably doesn't give you any more helpful information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shpielers View Post
+1

For the carb 4 issue, the drain screw there might be stripping out. If it's snug, fuel isn't supposed to leak out there.
Take a look at carbs 101 in the wiki (link to your upper left) and see if you followed the process detailed there.
I noticed the leak coming from port 4, with carbs on bike, and 2 gals of gas leaking all over, because I didn't put a shut off valve ion the fuel line, and I modified the petcock, so I had no way of stopping the gas, I honestly, looked under carbs saw a leak, saw the drain hole allen screw, automatically I thought to tighten that screw, when I went to tighten it felt tight as is, but I gave it a EXTRA push to see if I gave it that little extra the steady drip would stop... wrong... 1/4 turn in I felty screw get slightly easier to tighten and then the steady drip, became a constant stream. backed out screw a little to reduce back to a drip... then looking closer , and with carbs still on bike, the way fluid, rolls down the side off surfaces, it may not have been even leaking from the drain screw....
Looks like im taking the carbs off again.

Last edited by Robertkrats; 07-21-2018 at 01:40 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 07-21-2018, 04:18 PM   #5
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Oooo. I see lots of failures. Vinegar and aluminum/ aluminum bases metal isn’t good. It’s great for derusting a steel tank. Canned card cleaner is almost useless. Download “carbs 101” from the wiki and follow it.....then do it again after blowing out the passages. Your going to need carb DIP not cleaner. Wait... carbs 101 is a good reference for assambly and setup, but it also uses canned carb cleaner, so use carb102 for the cleaning procedure. A/F screws should be set at 2.5 turns out, not 1.75
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Old 07-22-2018, 12:26 PM   #6
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Overtightening the drain screw cracks the bowl, it's probably going to need to be replaced.

I don't know what the Dynojunk kit says to set the a/f screws at, so that didn't really answer the question, but ... the info that you are installing a dynojunk kit changes the a/f setting suggestion anyways. My experiance with dynojunk is your going to need at least 3 to 3.5 turns out on their near stock size jets, and upwards of 4 to 4.5 turns out if your going for the larger jet sizes.

I say near stock size... as US dynojunk jets are not based on flow rating like OEM, but the actual hole size. Flow is different between them at different rpms.

I agree with the "use a carb DIP" info.

Make very sure the gas tank is clean, no surface rust at all... or you will be cleaning the carbs again very shortly. No filter will prevent that, no filter will filter the rust out on the gravity fed system... at least, not one that will flow fuel for your bike to run right.

Before putting the carbs back on the bike, put them in a catch pan on the bench. Elevate the gas tank, or other fuel source above them like would be on the bike. Set up the fuel to fill the carbs, and wait to see if there are any leaks. Address those leaks then, saves you time before putting them on the bike.

Make sure you have a plan to sync the carbs once they are mounted on the bike and with it running. A bench sync is good to get it to start, but not for it to run well. You have to do a full sync for that.

Krey
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Old 07-22-2018, 06:46 PM   #7
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i used a dj106 main jet, dyno jet says the numbers relate to size, 1.06mm, that is a stage 1 , stage 3 is 1.10mm My plans for this bike is to turn it into a bobber type thing, and i think 4 indiviudall air filters without airbox, would look sweet unser it, and remove the baffles in the duel exhaust.... someday... if practical.... bad idea? a/f was turn out 2 1/2 turns. btw...

off topic, bike came with a new chain in sprockets for a 750, guy said it would run faster?

thanks for the tip of hooking the tank up on bench, cuase i can do that now its gravity fed.

thanks for all the tips actually, there will be more

Last edited by Robertkrats; 07-22-2018 at 06:57 PM..
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Old 07-23-2018, 07:51 AM   #8
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Unless your changing carbs, pods won’t work. Bike will run like shit and you’ll be chasing the cause for a decade. Nobody here will want to deal with you on it. (Long debated issue). Do some searching. Dynojet is junk. Factory pro is what you want.
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Old 07-23-2018, 06:39 PM   #9
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Unfortunately, I don't have the funds to buy another jet kit. I bought the one I used for $17.00 on ebay, and I havnt seen them for less than $100. some of you in the forum mentioned the flow rate od dyno jet, and the a/f screw, isn't the standard. I will be taking the carbs down completey, and I still have the stage 3 jets, stage one is 1.06 stage 3 is 1.10mm which ones should I use? I have stock exhaust, but plan to remove baffles, and I will also be replacing the chain in sprockets with a 750, Im turning it into a street bike bobber thing. air pods are out, can I remove the airbox casing from the stock filter and have a bare filter? or will that mess with it too much?

I just thought of something, process of elimination lead me to removing the diapram from the petcock, when it became gravity fed, it leaked..... Could that leak be the reason the vacuum in my petcock didn't work to begin with? and my petcock wasn't bad to begin with?

Last edited by Robertkrats; 07-23-2018 at 06:39 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 07-23-2018, 08:30 PM   #10
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The stage 1, your bike isn’t modified. Airbox has to be in place. You can paint it or fake chrome it, paint a mural on it....

Leaked where?
Put the petcock back together, if your carbs leak by, the petcock won’t stop fuel flow while sitting. = all that fuel in the oil.

Last edited by 92xjunker; 07-23-2018 at 08:34 PM..
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