[philwecksr]

Are you just going to run it through the petcock on prime? I was kicking around the idea of making a bracket that is just a valve...

[TheSteve]

That was my idea, until I can come up with something better. Knowing my luck, my petcock is probably shot. I'm not sure what the best way to do it would be, but making an adapter would probably work pretty well. I'll probably order the fuel pump in a few minutes then figure out how to run the lines after I get it.

[philwecksr]

I'm also not clear I understand the problem/solution with the throttle cables. I'm hoping its going to end up not being a problem as your cable appears to be substantially different from mine (you have pre98? I have 98+) I understand what you are saying, but don't understand how your solution addresses it.

Do you have 1 or 2 throttle cables on your kat?

You have a wideband o2 sensor I think you said? Where are you planning on mounting it? I was looking at the collector after the divider plates, but again, thats for a 98+ so I have the 4-1 set up. I think it will have to be mounted on the side or bottom of the collector for clearance issues... but then again, I've never actually held an o2 sensor so I'm not sure how big they are.


Are you giving any thought to pressure regulators or overflow valves? I'm not sure how easy it would be to route an overflow back into the tank....

[The CyberPoet]

Overflow valve (fuel return valve) from a fuel rail pressure regulator would be a PIA if you wanted to keep the venting working right on the OEM Kat tank without modification; in theory, you could use the vent-tube to return fuel, but if you do so, you need to add some form of other venting to offset vacuum/pressure changes as the fuel drops from use, rises from temp-growth.

I've seen logic-controlled pumps that will alter their output (or cycle on-off) to handle it, but they're not cheap.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[TheSteve]

Mine has just one, its a pre. The problem I was having was that even though the cable itself was long enough (barely) it didnt have enough travel. From fully closed to full throttle mine has maybe 3/4" of movement. It looks like the GSXR one would have to have quite a bit more travel in its cable, or if nothing else more exposed section. From the place the locknut sits to where the cable end is fixed to the throttle pulley theres at least 3 inches or more. Maybe the post 98 is different or maybe my bike is missing a cable, but mine was too short. On the gsxr, the cable seems to come in from underneath the throttle bodies; the locknut is on the bottom, so their cables would have to be much longer to reach. On mine, I welded the nut to the top of the bracket, so the cable would come in from the top in addition to needing a much shorter throw and exposed length. I hope I explained it a bit better here, I can pull it off and take a few more pictures when I get home tonight.

For an O2 sensor I've got an Innovate LC-1, nice tool to have and it integrates perfectly with MS. Its self heated so I don't think it matters too much where its placed in the exhaust stream as long as its picking up all 4 cylinders. I've got a yosh pipe on mine, but I havent really thought about mounting the sensor yet. its about 3" tall with a bundle of 5-6 wires coming out the top, so figure about 4" to 4 1/2" for clearance without kinking wires. I'll try to figure out a good spot for it tonight.

My throttle bodies came with the GSXR's fuel pressure regulator but it's unlike any ive seen before. I'll have to download a manual and figure out how its supposed to be setup. For a return I've been thinking either a surge tank or drilling the gas tank would be the best ideas. Maybe if the hoses are large enough you could T into the feed line and have the return dump there.

Did you get the FPR with the throttle bodies? I can take a pic if youd like, maybe you can make some sense out of it. It has one vacuum port, 2 ports going straight through, and one port that looks like it has the diaphram and spring going to it. Oddly enough, blowing into any of the passages (minus the vac) has air coming out unrestricted through the other two.

EDIT: Just thought of something. We're going to need a fuel filter in here somewhere. These pumps don't like picking up dirt. Maybe theres a fuel filter out there with 3 ports on it. That'll give us one going to the tank, one feeding the pump, and the third as a place for the FPR to dump excess fuel. This would be ideal for an inline pump setup.

Heres a picture to help. Sometimes I'm not very good at describing this stuff, I skimp on the details. In this pic, the cable is at its max extended length and is just enough to allow the throttle bodies to rest comfortably on the throttle stop

[TheSteve]

Ok, just bought this guy:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...262111269&rd=1

Inline fuel pump, 45psi, $103 shipped. All thats left to buy is the megasquirt, I think.

[Dan Dubeau]

OK, not knowing jack ****ake about fuel injection but very interested in gaining the knowledge for a future project i have a question.

My very rough plan was the use everything from a late model gsxr. the ecu ,wiring harness, gauges, throttle bodies, everything. Then using a power commander and custom map to dial it all in to perfection. That's a very vague description, of my very rough plan, but I don't see how that couldn't work. Of course as I stated above, I know nothing about this stuff so theres probably something very obvious about why this plan sucks . Just seems to me that when you simplify everything, you're basically using the system to control one motor (gsxr) to control another motor (katana), and that it'll all come to harmony on a dyno, with fine turning. I know I've over simplified this process a great deal, but every major motion picture starts out with a story board sketch; from there, the details are added.

Would a power commander and custom map not have enough range of adjustment? is the mega squirt much more controlable in terms of range of adjustment over a power commander? I'm not worried about mechanicly being able to package everything in there, I can figure that stuff out, but the electronics and control of everything is where the bald spot on my head comes from.

[Astro4x4]

Mega Squirt has killer range of adjustability and very flexable as far as engine set up. Time and a dyno is all it takes to fine tune a killer set up. Or so my experience on cages has taught me, never played with one on a bike ..... yet.

[TheSteve]

With the megasquirt you can run any engine from a racecar to a lawnmower. I'm not too familiar with the PC but if you can completely edit the maps you should be fine as long as youre using 100% GSXR parts. The second you change something to a nonstock part the PC probably wouldn't be too happy, but as I know nothing about the power commander I could be dead wrong. You probably wouldn't need the gauges though. And youre going to need a wideband for tuning anyway. I know a wideband works with MS to "autotune" to an extent, but if PC cant do that then youll also need a datalogger and AFR gauge to tune it correctly

[jwilliams]

My very rough plan was the use everything from a late model gsxr. the ecu ,wiring harness, gauges, throttle bodies, everything. Then using a power commander and custom map to dial it all in to perfection. ...

Hello,

I have been gathering parts to do a Kat FI project this coming winter based on the MegaSquirt the same as the others in this thread.

As for your plan to use everything from a GSXR I think you will run into problems. A Power Commander doesn't allow you to tweak everything and some of the map variables (IMO) are going to need some changing for it to work on the Kat. For example the ECU will have an input for water temp which it will use to determine engine temp. On the Kat you can either pass in oil temp or a temp sensor attached to the head but in both cases the temps will not represent the same level on the GSXR and Kat.
You may want to get a GSXR service manual (www.gixxer.com usually has a few posts with them) and look at all the inputs you will need for the GSXR ECU and see if they are available on the Kat.

I think you will be forever trying to tune and get a GSXR system to work on a Kat. I think the Mega/MicroSquirt would be a better option.

TTYL, Jeff

[TheSteve]

Just ordered the MS unit. Got the MS1 on PCB 2.2. This should be all I need for an engine as simple as this even if I want to control spark in the future. I don't really see the need for the MS2 or even the PCB 3.0 since this engine has no idle controls or anything like that. MS1 can control spark with additional firmware as well. My only qualm is the processing speed of the MS1 chip on an engine with a redline of nearly 12,000 RPM. The MS2 is probably a slightly better candidate for that reason alone, though I recall reading somewhere that the MS1 is good to 16k RPM. I'm not sure if thats the absolute maximum or just max recommended, but it's probably more of a concern for spark timing than fuel metering.

Edit: Just saw the above post. If you can fully adjust the maps on a PC, there should be an enrichment table or something similar for the water temp sensor. You can probably set the enrichments to zero added or subtracted and get away fine, though you'll probably have a check engine light (FI light on GSXR) since theres no sensor. If you use a resistor across the wires where the sensor should be then that should solve any problems with the FI light. Honestly though you're probably better off with MS. There are no hidden processes, no guesswork, nothing like that. Makes tuning that much easier when you dont have to worry about what the ECU is really thinking behind your back.

[TheSteve]

Ok, figured out how to do the return line. Found a nifty little filter with 3 ports on it. I just need clarification on the FPR. Not even the GSXR FSM shows anything about it. So either I figure out the correct way for the gsxr setup or I buy an adjustable regulator and use that instead. I'd prefer to use the stock one, as I already have it.


Now if I can't use the GSXR FPR, I'll have a T at the pictured FPR going to an adjustable one I buy a little ways up that line. That way itll maintain pressure to the rail but still bleed off back to the filter again. The stock one is convienient because it has the T built in. I'll post a pic of it later so you can see what I'm talking about.

[jwilliams]

Ok, figured out how to do the return line. Found a nifty little filter with 3 ports on it.

Hello,

Where did you find it and do you have a P/N? With the info going on here I might move my FI plans up a bit

Thanks, Jeff

[TheSteve]

I got it from autozone, its part number 33011 I think. I don't have it with me right now but you can kinda see it in the pic. I'll post it when I get home. I'm not certain its the way to go yet, that little side port seems to have a restrictor in there. I'll hit it with a drill and see if the flow is improved. If not, its probably not going to flow enough. I'll let you know

EDIT: Looking that number up online definitely comes up with the wrong one. I'll look at the box when I get home.

[TheSteve]

Its an FF3301 fuel filter, type it in the search field at autozone.com and it'll come up