[TheSteve]

Got the MS harness finished, the underseat tray welded in place, and the MS mounted. Need to install the petcock adapter and doublecheck everything and I should be good to go

[Genkenx2]

This is so damned cool.

Keep us updated, keep us saturated with pictures, and keep going.

[jwilliams]

TheSteve: What did you use for sensors?

Is there a MAP sensor with the TBs? And what are you using for an engine temp sensor? One attached to the head or oil temp?

TTYL, Jeff

[philwecksr]

TheSteve: What did you use for sensors?

Is there a MAP sensor with the TBs? And what are you using for an engine temp sensor? One attached to the head or oil temp?

TTYL, Jeff

The MS system comes with a MAP sensor, not sure how its to be mounted...

I was curious about the engine temp as well... I'm not certain its 100% necessary, would be nice though... If it comes down to it I'll buy an oil temp sensor from CP...

[TheSteve]

I'm using the TPS that came on the gsxr stuff, and the map sensor is actually built IN the megasquirt. You have to run a vacuum hose to the MS box. Or, you could extend the wires and mount the sensor to the motor but thats more work for zero gain. The MS developers tested vacuum signal delay with a 100 foot spool of vac hose and found there was virtually no lag even with that much hose.

As for engine temp right now I dont have one. I see this posing problems only for cold starts but hopefully it isnt too bad. If it is, I would tap the oil pan for an oil temp sensor and run that to the MS. Living in AZ it shouldn't be too bad, but its probably going to boil down to having to crank it for a second or two extra when its cold out or having it run pig rich for the first 10 seconds or so. I'd like to get a temp sensor as well but I'll give this a try first. Adding the sensor to the wiring shouldnt take more than 5 minutes with the way I have it all hooked up.

Forgot one, the MS needs an intake air temp sensor. MS recommends using GM sensors for everything as 99% of all sensors from GM have the same resistance curve no matter the type (air temp, oil temp, water temp, etc). I'll probably have the IAT mounted to the side of the throttle bodies. Doesn't really have to be mounted IN the throttle body in this case. On a car its needed but here since there isn't really an intake manifold or anything to heat up the air after metering it it should be fine just being near the intake. You should mount it in your airbox if you can make it fit; I'm going to find some GSXR pod filters so the airbox isnt going to be there anyway.

[1SikKat]

A lot of the Z car guys running MS don't have a temp sensor.....

[TheSteve]

You're talking about the coolant temp, right? How's it work for them? Hard starts, anything like that?

Just hooked up the megasquirt. Computer is talking to the bike and everythings ready to go. Got the constants loaded in and the TPS calibrated. The injectors are 19lb/hr so I read, so I have that stuff setup but I don't have even a basic VE table yet. Does anyone here know the specs for a pre 600? I need to know the peak horsepower @ rpm as well as peak torque @ rpm. If not then I'll just wing it, easy enough with the wideband but figured id try to make a rough map before. I dont think I'll have it running tonight, its already 10:30 and the neighbors would probably get ****ed once I start trying to tune it.

I've already noticed one problem, pretty minor but a bit of a pain. Suzuki has a very strange wiring scheme on these bikes. The grounding system consists of a single small wire (20 ga?) going to everything on the bike. Every gauge, every light, everything. The ground tends to get overloaded when lights turn on and it causes a voltage bias at some of the MS sensors. For instance, the TPS goes up 7% when I hit the brakes. The brake light draws too much power for the little wire, and it messes with the ground level at the TPS. Fixes for this are:

1. Ground the sensors at the same point as the MS (normally good practice anyway but usually unnecessary)

2. Add more ground wires to heavy draw components (lights, etc)

3. Move the ground wires to form a chassis ground instead of relying on that thin wire

I'm leaning towards option 3 for the lights, and 2 for the fuel pump and CDI box.

So the engine itself is ready to run, but the bike still needs work. Need to install the petcock's replacement and make sure its sealed. Need to pull the wideband out of the truck still (I'll do that tonight) and install it on the bike. Also need to reinstall the exhaust, but that should only take about 5 minutes.

Tomorrow should be interesting, I'll be off work at 4 and plan on spending the rest of the day in the garage. It'll be nice to hear it run

[philwecksr]

86 HP @ 11000 RPM
44 Ft-lbs @ 9600 RPM

As per motorcyclespecs.co.za

[TheSteve]

Sweet. Just what I needed, thanks

Edit: Megatune doesnt like something about those numbers. Maybe its the high redline of the kat, but it just spits out garbage for the VE table below 6000 rpm, and the rest of the values are questionable at best. Oh well

[TheSteve]

Done for the night. Got the truck retuned and rewired for the stock narrowband, swapped the wideband sensor out. Finally got some JB weld to seal the petcock adapter. Finished the wiring harness to include the O2 sensor and fuel pump. Lastly I started regrounding the lights. A few pics:

New "petcock"


Overall shot to show placement of MS. Fits nicely under the back seat.


Closeup of the megasquirt


Hopefully the JB weld works. If i ever have to remove the adapter, I'll just buy a new tank. This ones not in too great of shape anyway.

[Psycho1]

I've read that JB weld holds up to gas pretty good for a while, but then starts to deteriorate. If it gives you problems later, maybe you can make a gasket using an old bicycle tube or something.

[TheSteve]

I've heard mixed reviews as well. I needed some sort of gasket though so I figured i'd try it. I've never heard of bicycle tube working but it sounds like an alright idea. Is it gas safe?

[Psycho1]

I figure most of the seals in the fuel system are rubber o-rings, so it should hold up fairly well, especially once it's compressed down tight.

[Adequateman]

You can buy a two part epoxy designed to fix holes in gas tanks.... Have no idea what its called, but it did great on my Ford Ranger.

It was not packaged as a syringe, as most two parters are. This was more solid, pinch off a piece and mix together.

I had tried several different things on the Ranger. Everything let loose after a couple of months. Never tried JB weld. The stuff I'm talking about is the only thing that lasted.

[KENWIL138]

For stuff like this I always use a product called "quiksteel" It comes in a little cylinder. You pinch off a little and knead it with your fingers and then put it on. It holds up GREAT.