I left my keys on and my bike won't start. I tried to push start her but had no luck. I have no head lights either how would I start her sorry for the lame question but I'm a newbie. Thanks ahead of time for any advice.....
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had this problem a couple times. for some reason my back light stays on sometimes. anyway, the first time i was able to push it while in gear and then let out the clutch and start it. worked fine, but i think it still had a little juice left. other time, had a friend just connect his cables to his truck battery. didnt even have to start his truck. took a whole 2 seconds to start my bike. hopefully you have a vehicle and cables. hoped this helped.
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Reposted from http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14825
Originally posted by The CyberPoetThings to know about motorcycle batteries (in general):
All motorcycle batteries lose storage capacity every time they are run down, losing 25 to 40% of their remaining long-term capacity (AGM's are closer to 25% -- standard batteries closer to 40%). Since your bike needs about 30 amps to crank the starter, running it dead three to four times can leave it without a full 30 amps of capacity left, and it may not be able to start your bike no matter how much you charge it. This is also why it is highly recommended to keep your bike battery on a charger when not in use -- it keeps the storage full, helping keep this from happening.
Sulfation (white crystals building up on the plates) happens when a battery is run low on fluids and/or power; it's kind of like sugar crystalizing out of sugar-water as the water evaporates. It's far more common for standard batteries than AGM batteries, but can happen to either. The build-up acts as a barrier to the chemical interaction needed to generate power. Some chargers can literally knock off some of the sulfation -- they do this by varying the voltage to the battery to a much-higher-than-standard voltage (up to 20 volts instead of 14.x like the bike's charging system would do), but it always concerned me that this same high voltage might do damages to some electronics on the bike that are always "hot" (such as the fuel gauge). The charger I recommended above does not desulfate batteries (via voltage cycling) and will not rescue a very highly sulfated battery. But if the battery stays charged (and filled in the case of non-AGM batteries), sulfation won't build up.
Cold causes batteries to have less power to draw on -- but only temporarily; as the temperature comes back up, the power levels will come back up. This is because the chemical interactions are slower at low temps than warm ones. Excess heat, on the other hand, will cause permanent loss of power that can not be reversed, and is one of the two primary reasons batteries go bad (heat & vibration) over a few years.
A typical Kat battery will last two to three years if the bike is ridden regularly; keeping it hooked to a charger when not in use (or if ridden irregularly) will normally extend this by another year. Because having your battery die on you while you are out on the road really sucks, I replace my batteries about every 2 to 2-1/2 years as a preventative measure.
Charging a low to dead battery at too high a rate (more amps-hours than rated for charging) will create a lot of chemical interactions at the plates, and build a lot of heat. This heat can cause the battery case to warp (early warning), or even split (oh-oh!) -- or an explosion in a worst-case scenario. The max sustained charge rate for the 98+ Kats is 0.8 Amp-hours (800 milliAmps); for the pre-98 Kat 600's [YB10L-B2], the rate is 1.1 Amp-hours (1100 milliAmps), and for the pre-98 750's and 1100's [YB14L-B2] it's 1.4 Amp-hours (1400 milliAmps). If charging at above these rates, such as using a car charger set to 2 amps, cycle the charging to allow the battery to cool between cycles (charge 45 minutes to an hour, disconnect and leave stand for the same amount of time or longer, repeat). The higher the charger power, the shorter the charging interval and the longer the breaks need to be between charging cycles to prevent overheating and possible explosions.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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I scanned CP's post kinda quick but basicly you need at least a little juice to get the coil kicking.
If your battery is totally dead you're not gonna get any spark. Bump starting (pushing the bike and popping the clutch) is only taking the place of the starter motor.
You would have to run the bike a long way and fast
to get the alternator spinning enough to give you
some spark. A battery charger is a really good investment.
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Re: me too
Originally posted by mrhqvmy tail light stays on too , once in a blue moon when im trying to lock my handle bars.hmmm i wonder why
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Don't know if you have a Harbor Freight around your area but they have a trickel float charger that is really good...It won't overcharge or boil your battery...I've used it and it worked great and it was only $4.99..Good judgement comes from experience, and often experience comes from Bad Judgement :smt084
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Thinking about it, what the heck is the purpose the park light anyway?-Steve
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