[Xerrith]

The larger springs below the sync screw fell off when I separated the carbs. I didn't take the springs off of carbs 2 and 3. Those still have tension and control the butterfly's for JUST carbs 2 and 3. Carbs 1, and 4 do not have any tension, because those springs are not on, and I don't know the correct way to install them so that when carbs 2, and 3 turn carbs 1,and 4 do at the same time.

I followed disassembly on Carbs 102, and he had those two larger springs off as well.

[Xerrith]

Does the metal piece on the left go underneath the little spring on the right?

[Kreylyn]

Does the metal piece on the left go underneath the little spring on the right?

Yes.

The single tab on the left should have a spring on one side, and the screw tip on the other.

The spring pushes the tab against the screw tip.

The screw tip adjusts the relative position of the throttle plates... otherwise called the "sync" screw.

All kat carbs should be synced with a proper tool after they have been removed from an engine.

The way I would do it, is use a flat tip screw driver. Slide the flat end into the spring closest to the end that would rest against the tab on the left. Compress the spring with the screw driver, slide the tab between the spring and screw, let off and remove the screw driver.

Krey

[Xerrith]

Thanks so much for the detailed response. I'll tackle this after work tomorrow.

[92xjunker]

The spring sits in the nipple then the sync lever fits between the spring and screw perch which the screw presses and compresses the spring. on the screw driver.

[Xerrith]

Good news! The dip did wonders for my carbies. Things I've done.

New fuel line. (tried to use a different fuel filter, it sucked. Stock seems unclogged.)

Oem filter installed. K&n is out!

A/F screws 2.5 turns out.

Did the bench sync, waiting til I have more funds to buy a sync tool.

Bike is as responsive as I feel it should be. My only concern at this point is the bike has decel popping. It does has the delkvic exhaust and no baffle. I don't have the baffle either. Suggestions? Will a carb sync fix this?

[maniac1886]

Popping on decel is a lean condition. Is there a jet kit in the carbs to compensate for the change in exhaust system?

[Xerrith]

No the jets and needle were stock. It's just a slip on. The headers are stock. Could it be because I put premium in the tank? I did so before someone on here told me to just use regular unless non-normal conditions occur.

I wanted to also note that it only pops the one time, it doesn't keep popping. Just every once in a while, only at higher revs did it pop.

[maniac1886]

It's is common practice to rejet if the muffler is changed. Honestly, even if you didn't change to the slip on, a stage 1 jet kit will help the bike. The higher flow of the slip on only makes an already lean (EPA regulations) bike even more lean.

[Xerrith]

Okay thanks. When I get more money I'll ordered either the Ivan's or Factory pro kit. The bike seems more responsive the longer its ran too.

[maniac1886]

Factory pro is superior for this particular motorcycle.

[Xerrith]

I'll take that into consideration. I'm stuck between the two because I've read multiple threads with people saying Ivan's is the best, then the same with Factory Pro.

[92xjunker]

Factory pro is a simpler and effective jet kit. IMAO Factory pro has the superior needle of all the jet kits available.

[shpielers]

I'll take that into consideration. I'm stuck between the two because I've read multiple threads with people saying Ivan's is the best, then the same with Factory Pro.

I've heard nothing negative about either, but have heard FP is easier to set up.

[Xerrith]

If I don't go with a jet kit right away will turning the A/F screws farther out stop the popping? I haven't had a chance to ride this bike, and it still needs a few things before it can be ridden this spring that I need to put my money towards. Tires, chain/sprockets, sync tool.