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torque wrench

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  • #31
    Originally posted by arsenic View Post
    I want this:

    I have no idea were I'd use it, but tools are cool.
    I have one, you will never use it..

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    • #32
      BP you can send me yours. They are great for installing scopes.

      In regards to using an adapter with a torque wrench. using a long extension can throw off the reading because the torque wrench cannot take into account the twist of the extension. Using a short adapter (1/2 to 3/8) usually is not a problem because the adapter is rigid enough that it will not twist and throw off the torque wrench measurement.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by tzortn View Post
        BP you can send me yours. They are great for installing scopes.
        PM your addy and it is yours bud!!
        This is the actual one I have:


        It isn't really a sears item, I just knew they carried it.
        In regards to using an adapter with a torque wrench. using a long extension can throw off the reading because the torque wrench cannot take into account the twist of the extension. Using a short adapter (1/2 to 3/8) usually is not a problem because the adapter is rigid enough that it will not twist and throw off the torque wrench measurement.

        Mr. Metal with the point! While I agree with your statement;
        a. I think that would only apply to long (over 5 inches) extensions or cheap ones. You could play it same and use a hardened "impact" style extension..
        b. What torque would you need to be driving at and how far off would it be? Higher torque ratings generally have higher allowances, but I'm not sure if that allowance is a percentage and the +/- in ft/lb is the same as lower torques in percent. If so then the torsional rigidity of the extension is a concern..

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        • #34
          I use the torque screwdrivers all the time for cases and case covers, clutch spring bolts, and use it as a nut driver on many different fasteners on motorcycles and ATV's
          98 GSX750F
          95 Honda VT600 vlx
          08 Tsu SX200

          HardlyDangerous Motosports

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          • #35
            Originally posted by beherenow71 View Post
            that would be great except all my sockets are 3/8 =(
            It comes in a 3/8 drive also....and also has the lighter foot pounds on it.
            It's not speed that kills, it's the deceleration!

            Experience is a hard teacher. She gives you the test first, and then teaches the lesson.

            TXSBR.com Alais: TexasSportBiker

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            • #36
              In regards to the Pit Posse wrench. You guys say the 20 to 200 range is bad, but why? The only thing I work on is my bike, and most of the specs are only in the 12 to 15 Nm range. 200 inch/lbs would be about 25 nm I think, wouldn't that maximum be good for my use?

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              • #37
                Originally posted by beherenow71 View Post
                In regards to the Pit Posse wrench. You guys say the 20 to 200 range is bad, but why? The only thing I work on is my bike, and most of the specs are only in the 12 to 15 Nm range. 200 inch/lbs would be about 25 nm I think, wouldn't that maximum be good for my use?
                I just don't see the need for a torque wrench that low..
                But hey, I've been wrenching a loooooooong time..

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by beherenow71 View Post
                  In regards to the Pit Posse wrench. You guys say the 20 to 200 range is bad, but why? The only thing I work on is my bike, and most of the specs are only in the 12 to 15 Nm range. 200 inch/lbs would be about 25 nm I think, wouldn't that maximum be good for my use?
                  The fact that it's a no name $40 dollar torque wrench. Just buy one from HF, then at least you know your getting crap.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by Black_peter View Post
                    a. I think that would only apply to long (over 5 inches) extensions or cheap ones. You could play it same and use a hardened "impact" style extension..
                    b. What torque would you need to be driving at and how far off would it be? Higher torque ratings generally have higher allowances, but I'm not sure if that allowance is a percentage and the +/- in ft/lb is the same as lower torques in percent. If so then the torsional rigidity of the extension is a concern..
                    I agree 100% with your comment. A well made short extension would have enough rigidity not to throw off the torque measurement. Like you said you also need to consider the actual torque value that you are trying to achieve. A higher torque will be more tolerant of variations. A lower torque is less likely to cause an extension to twist enough to throw off the torque value.

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by Black_peter View Post
                      a. I think that would only apply to long (over 5 inches) extensions or cheap ones. You could play it same and use a hardened "impact" style extension..
                      I thought impact extensions are softer so they don't shatter from the impact.

                      Most errors when using a extension are the user not holding the wrench 90 degrees to the part and the longer the extension the more the angle of the dangle.

                      Tmod

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                      • #41
                        Things everyone should know before buying their first torque wrench:

                        1. Virtually all clicker-style and bearing-ramp style torque wrenches are massively inaccurate in the lower 20% of their valid range. That means if you buy a 10 - 100 ft-lb torque wrench, it will only be reasonably accurate (typically 4-5%) from 28 to 100 ft-lbs; in the under-28 ft-lb range, it will be typically be anywhere from 20 to 100% off. If you get an even wider-range torque wrench (say 25 - 250 ft-lbs), that reliably accuracy range becomes larger because 20% of a larger range is a larger number (in this case, accuracy would be from 70 to 250 ft-lbs on a 25-250 ft-lb torque wrench).

                        2. The cheapest reliable low-value torque wrench you can buy will be an open-beam style torque wrench, because there is no inaccuracy due to mechanical action. It's also a no-brainer as a first torque wrench for the Kat or for any toolbox, because it never needs to be re-calibrated as long as it's stored right. You can score one from Sears (item #00944690000, #00944978000 or # 00944642000) for $25 - $30 and be good for pretty much anything a typical home-mechanics is likely to ever need to do on the Kat (from the spark plugs at 8 ft-lbs to the rear axle nut at 42 ft-lbs) -- but if it's your first torque wrench, please read the instructions twice before use to make sure you're using it right!

                        3. SK makes most of the made-in-the-USA torque wrenches sold under other brands' "professional" and "higher-end" models (including Craftsman, and from what I understand, Kobalt). I like SK's torque wrench products a lot, and use the same 25 - 250 inch-lb torque wrench that Arsenic pointed to (model SKT74026) for most of the common low-torque stuff on the Kats (valve cover bolts, oil union bolts, brake bleeders, oil drain bolt & oil pan bolts, etc.). Given the same 20% inaccuracy range as most torque wrenches, that makes the effective accuracy range 70 - 250 inch/lbs which translates into 5.8 - 20.8 ft-lbs, or pretty much the range every small bolt falls into on the Kat. For the bigger stuff, like the axle nuts, etc., I use a larger torque wrench or my open-beam style torque wrench, whichever happens to be handy at the moment.

                        Cheers,
                        =-= The CyberPoet

                        __________________________________________________ ________
                        CyberPoet's Katana Maintence and Upgrade Parts Offerings
                        The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.
                        Remember The CyberPoet

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                        • #42
                          I just stopped the snap-on man last week the dial indacatior type is great for clutches and what ever .... Its like 280,,, but a mans tools you use till the day you die .. Cheap is cheap and small bolts need them right

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by The CyberPoet View Post
                            1. Virtually all clicker-style and bearing-ramp style torque wrenches are massively inaccurate in the lower 20% of their valid range. That means if you buy a 10 - 100 ft-lb torque wrench, it will only be reasonably accurate (typically 4-5%) from 28 to 100 ft-lbs; in the under-28 ft-lb range, it will be typically be anywhere from 20 to 100% off. If you get an even wider-range torque wrench (say 25 - 250 ft-lbs), that reliably accuracy range becomes larger because 20% of a larger range is a larger number (in this case, accuracy would be from 70 to 250 ft-lbs on a 25-250 ft-lb torque wrench).
                            Oops sorry, you have that wrong/misleading
                            The figure is actually 20% of the maximum, so a torque wrench that is 100 Ft/lb max is only the rated accuracy down to 20 Ft/lb. The wrenches you reference like the 25 to 250 would be accurate (+/- rating) from 250 ft/lb to 50 Ft/lb. however a real wrench (Craftsman 1/2 drive) is rated at +/- 4% the range of the wrench is 25 to 150 Ft/lb. So it is accurate +/-4% from 150 Ft/lb (156 to 144) down to 30 Ft/lb (31.2 to 27.8) but not all the way to 25.. That is the cheap ($70) Sears one pretty good actually... There are clicker style with +/-1% accuracy BTW.

                            Edit:
                            I should point out that one never uses a tool (or instrument, meter, etc.) at the bottom of it's range. So one wouldn't use a 25-150 Ft/lb wrench below say 50 Ft/lb anyway, you would switch to a 10-75 wrench (accurate in range to 15 Ft/lb) below that you would switch to an inch/lb wrench.. Think of something as mundane as an old fashioned oral thermometer. It only has a range of something like 95 to 105 degrees. Because it needs to be accurate with in about 1/2 a degree it might be off 5 degrees below 90 degrees.
                            Last edited by Black_peter; 02-26-2009, 09:17 AM.

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                            • #44
                              Thanks a lot for the input guys. I ended up skipping the cheap one from Pit Posse and ordering a good one from my brother in-law who works at Total Tool.

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