[md86]

I just hope I get the bike running by doing all this stuff and have some fun with it and don't discover that there was a much bigger reason for the guy selling it in the first place,

Well , if so , the REST of the bike may well be in good shape by then , in which case you pick up another engine and slap it in . THey can be had for $400-$600 it seems .
Apparently you'll need to reset the cam chain tensioner , too .

[The CyberPoet]

Apparently you'll need to reset the cam chain tensioner , too .

Don't tease him -- tell him how to do it.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[md86]

All I can remember is you push the little button in , push the ratchet mechanism all the way one direction ( was that in or out : ) , then bolt it back in . Dude , I think he's gonna need a manual .....

[dnargsiefil]

Thanks md86, he's got a manual...
And the Cam tensioner from CP is already on its way...

[The CyberPoet]

Thanks md86, he's got a manual...
And the Cam tensioner from CP is already on its way...

You got the Suzuki manual?
I asked MD86 to explain the reset procedure, because he's done it where I haven't.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[dnargsiefil]

I do not have the Suzuki manual - not yet.

I'm currently bidding on the one on e-bay...please do not bid against my, since I will be scanning it and try to provide it here on the side as pdf.

Otherwise I did download and print the Haynes which is posted on this side.

[ctandc]

You got the Suzuki manual?
I asked MD86 to explain the reset procedure, because he's done it where I haven't.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

I'm at work now...when I get home tonight I'll post what the manual says for my 91. I've done it already (replaced the spring) but I can't remember either right now.

[dnargsiefil]

Okay tomorrow I will start my first little project as described at the beginning. Well turns out the carb tunning tool I will get tomorrow from the neighbors brother has not been used in years...so will see what the condition is it is in.

Before I can really use it I have to anyway first get the kat to idle... you guys saying that it has to idle and that you have to idle at even at around 1800 rpm's... well needless to say I would be a happy camper if I could get it to idle at all...
So I guess I will first take very close look at the carbs and try to clean them and put some non-ox fuel in it.

I just was wondering if the carbs could be that out of wack it would not even get it to idle at all?
What do I do than???

Also a more specific question to BP... where are you exactly located? Since it has been mentioned many times on this site... "look for a KR member which may have the tool you need..."
Maybe I could borrow the device....

On another note of course my dealer not get me the gaskets for the valve cover, so I will be very careful. Would you guys use the silicon gasket stuff which comes in the tub and according to the tub can be used instead of the gasket, it says it is high temp stuff...?

Let me know what you think.

[The CyberPoet]

I just was wondering if the carbs could be that out of wack it would not even get it to idle at all?
What do I do than???

Look for vacuum leaks, clean carbs again.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[NiteMare]

i'd think carefully about using silicone ...

sometimes gasket thicknesses are calculated into the engine design, i'm not sure if there's a camchain guide under the cam cover on your engine but if there is and you replace the gasket with silicone then the guide will be lowered to the camchain by approximately 2mm, which in turn "could" accellerate the wear on the guide...

i do use silicone in some rebuild areas but always use it very sparingly as the excess "could" break away and end up attached to the oil pickup strainer or mashed by the gears (and go thru the strainer), either "could" cause problems...

to sum up, think about where you're using silicone and be very careful how much you use
(i personally have not worked on "late" Suzuki engines so this is just general advice)

[dnargsiefil]

Look for vacuum leaks, clean carbs again.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

What is the best way to look for these vacuum leaks? Any advice?

[The CyberPoet]

What is the best way to look for these vacuum leaks? Any advice?

If the engine runs at all (even under constant throttle), spray WD-40 or starter fluid around the areas that could have vacuum leaks -- if any is sucked into the engine through a vacuum leak, the engine RPM & sound will suddenly change.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[dnargsiefil]

Great tip.
I'll yet you know...

[Splat]

One thing that I noticed that was not mentioned was anything about the carb jets. I had a similar problem with my Kat. It would run rough but would not idle. I went through my carbs several times looking at everything methodically. What I found out was three of the four pilot jets (small jets) were plugged with old fuel junk. I finished cleaning everything, reassembled and installed: problem solved. My Kat starts right up, accelerates well and decelerates right back to idle.

When you clean the crabs take your time, cleaning everything. Pay close attention to all the small o-rings and parts. Make sure you remove all rubber parts prior to cleaning with carb cleaner. Inspect all rubber parts and replace worn out/deteriorated parts with new ones. Separate all parts according to which carb the parts came from. After you have soaked/ sprayed/dipped your carbs in cleaner blow out all passages with some compressed air. Then reassemble.

The big thing here is to take your time and don't rush your self.