Mobile MX4T Clutch Slipping

[Rok_Stars_Bars]

OK, I did a tuneup on my bike a 2005 Suzuki Katana 600 with 12,000 miles. From Sync carbs to Valve Adjustment, and plus oil change and plugs and so on. I switch to Mobile MX4T. Now I have to give to alot more at Red lights and ride the clutch to get going. It feels like alot of slipping. I just adjusted the clutch cable before I did all this maintence so I know it was right on. I was wondering is it the oil cuz I read a couple of forum posting they had problems. Any insight please.
Also with this many miles is this a sign for new clutches.

[arsenic]

Mobil 1 4T oil rocks, thats what I use.

[Rok_Stars_Bars]

So is the Clutches worn out....

[arsenic]

check them

[The CyberPoet]

It's the cable sticking, the rod binding, the adjustment being off, the springs getting weak, or the clutch friction plates being worn.

Always start with the cheapest/easiest when you start ruling things out...

Unless someone previously slipped something into the oil (like a batch of slick-50 a few oil changes ago) and the MX4T reliquified it, it's not the oil. The fact that it's JASO-MA rated guarantees that.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[hardlydangerous]

I agree start with a proper push rod adjustment and follow up with a cable adjustment.

The semi synthetic MX4T could cause ****ch slipping but only if the clutch was already damaged and the clutch was galzed badly from using conventional oil and slipping the clutch.
If the push rod free play and cable adjustment is perfect.. go ahead and change the friction plates.. then stick with the Mobil 1 or better oil

[creepinghunter]

I got one for you on my 88 600 I used belray oil for motorcycles with wet clutches and nothing but problems. Such as pulling in the lever and the clutch not disengaging, which means at a stop it keeps trying to go forward, thank god for brakes. Also it slipped and when shifting into gear from neutral it would lung and stall.

Since then I decided to change everything involved with the clutch and I mean everything, basket, pressure plate, cable, pushrod, actuator, friction disks, steels, springs, bolts, etc. I also did an oil change using the same stuff. STill problem would not go away. Ok now at this point I am ****ed. I been working on motorcycles, dirtbikes, snowmobiles, 4 wheelers since I was 13, am now 30, I am no idiot and have adjusted more clutches then I can count so that is not the problem.

IN the end I decided to go with Suzuki oil from the factory and the problem is almost completely gone. SO now I am gona change the friction disks, which are impregnated with the belray oil still and give another oil change.

I am very skeptical about using another oil. What is your take? Is the MX4T realy that good and how much does it cost?

[Rok_Stars_Bars]

I got one for you on my 88 600 I used belray oil for motorcycles with wet clutches and nothing but problems. Such as pulling in the lever and the clutch not disengaging, which means at a stop it keeps trying to go forward, thank god for brakes. Also it slipped and when shifting into gear from neutral it would lung and stall.

Since then I decided to change everything involved with the clutch and I mean everything, basket, pressure plate, cable, pushrod, actuator, friction disks, steels, springs, bolts, etc. I also did an oil change using the same stuff. STill problem would not go away. Ok now at this point I am ****ed. I been working on motorcycles, dirtbikes, snowmobiles, 4 wheelers since I was 13, am now 30, I am no idiot and have adjusted more clutches then I can count so that is not the problem.



IN the end I decided to go with Suzuki oil from the factory and the problem is almost completely gone. SO now I am gona change the friction disks, which are impregnated with the belray oil still and give another oil change.

I am very skeptical about using another oil. What is your take? Is the MX4T realy that good and how much does it cost?

I got my at bikebandit. But I got a deal. But org cost $15 a qt. When I order my it was under the old name it was a dollar or two cheaper. And it let me order it. They sent me a email saying it was on backorder ok no problem I got all winter. So a week later I decided to check it out. So I live chatted with them. The oil I wanted has been discontinued. O really so they give me the replace number and my oil was order this time but for my trouble they give me free shipping so the extra price was worth it to me.

Edit: Mx4t is the bad name it is replace with: MOBIL 1 RACING 4T 10W/40

[The CyberPoet]

I am very skeptical about using another oil. What is your take? Is the MX4T realy that good and how much does it cost?

You can get MX4T aka Mobil 1 Racing 4T for $8.99/quart at SuperWalmart stores. CycleGear normally carries for around $9.99/quart.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Rok_Stars_Bars]

I went to Mobil 1 website to find out why they changed the oil name from Mobile 1 MX4T to Mobile 1 Racing 4t . It was becuz everywhere but the U.S. it was under Racing 4t. So they just changed the U.S. name to match everyone else in the world. But it has alot of good info. But as CP as quoted me in the past nothing changed but the name they admit that.

[hardlydangerous]

I got one for you on my 88 600 I used belray oil for motorcycles with wet clutches and nothing but problems. Such as pulling in the lever and the clutch not disengaging, which means at a stop it keeps trying to go forward, thank god for brakes. Also it slipped and when shifting into gear from neutral it would lung and stall.

Since then I decided to change everything involved with the clutch and I mean everything, basket, pressure plate, cable, pushrod, actuator, friction disks, steels, springs, bolts, etc. I also did an oil change using the same stuff. STill problem would not go away. Ok now at this point I am ****ed. I been working on motorcycles, dirtbikes, snowmobiles, 4 wheelers since I was 13, am now 30, I am no idiot and have adjusted more clutches then I can count so that is not the problem.

IN the end I decided to go with Suzuki oil from the factory and the problem is almost completely gone. SO now I am gona change the friction disks, which are impregnated with the belray oil still and give another oil change.

I am very skeptical about using another oil. What is your take? Is the MX4T realy that good and how much does it cost?

Sounds like one or both of the following

#1 notches worn into the clutch basket fingers
Once you get heavy notches into the fingers of the clutch basket, the plate tabs will hang up in them and the clutch wont release. It can/will also make going into gear very hard and clunky. If you changed everything except the basket this is likely your problem. All the new parts won't solve anything unless the basket is fixed or replaced. (yes it can be fixed)

You must remove the clutch basket and you will see the edges of the basket will have grooves and notches worn in them. there is 3 ways you can fix this

#1 best .... method is to replace the clutch basket
#2 better .... have a machine shop lightly machine the grooves out of the fingers.
#3 good..... use a file and keeping it so that the edge is at a 90 degree angle to the finger back file the grooves out of the clutch fingers


#2 incorrect push rod adjustment.
if the push rod adjustment is not correct the clutch will drag and the lever tension will change at different engine temps. (perfect free play when cold, too much free play when hot) back off the push rod several turns then when you tighten the push rod in (clockwise) just until you feel tension stop, then back it out at least 1/4 turn ~ 1/2 turn counter clockwise then tighten the lock nut.

Mobil 1MX4T is a decent oil. it's a highly refined mineral based oil with high quality synthetic Ester and POA additives and wil outperform any conventional oil.
Personaly I prefer true full synthetic that contain no mineral oil. Amsoil being one of the best acually buys their base synthetic stocks from Exxon/mobil, the difference is they don't add the mineral oil to thier blends. it's the pure good stuff lol