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Sewing machine!?

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  • #31
    Get carbs out of the way , take out the bug bolt and mounting bolts , pop new spring on there , reset pawl , bolt back together . REALLY quite simple . Takes longer to get TO the part than to swap it out , which takes all of 20 minutes maybe to get down there
    .
    I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



    Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

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    • #32
      well Matt, yes that is technically correct, but I'll add a step. This is once you've gotten to it.
      1. remove large bolt and spring while adjuster is still mounted in the cylinder.
      2. remove the 2 mounting hex head bolts and take the adjuster out of the cylinder.
      3. hit the reset button and push the adjuster all the way in.
      4. remount the adjuster in the cylinder.
      5. put the spring back in and the adjuster pushes back out from all the way in. Torque the large bolt.
      6. Turn the engine over by hand a several times and expect to hear several clicks, now the adjuster is where it's supposed to be.

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      • #33
        Well ,yeah . I was just showing how easy it is without getting TOO technical .
        I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



        Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

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        • #34
          Originally posted by md86 View Post
          Well ,yeah . I was just showing how easy it is without getting TOO technical .
          it is really simple, and I know you were trying to be not so technical, but I don't want anyone to not get the adjuster rest right.

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          • #35
            I'll add one more step:
            Once you have the adjuster off the bike, shove a hollow plastic pen tube (i.e. - ball point pen without the ink part) through the hole on the engine to push any sludge away. Sometimes sludge collects right at the button and prevents it from moving freely; knocking it loose is a simple extra step that can't hurt and may help.

            Cheers,
            =-= The CyberPoet
            Remember The CyberPoet

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            • #36
              can I just remove the tensioner spring bolt and inspect the spring, without taking the whole tensioner out? If the spring length is good, can I just put it back without walking through the process of reseting the tensioner?

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              • #37
                yes

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                • #38
                  This is a quick response!
                  Merry Christmas!

                  Originally posted by arsenic1016 View Post
                  yes

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                  • #39
                    But you'll still need to pull it out to reset the ratchet mechanism . It'll take you all of 2.5 minutes to unbolt and pull out . I'm all for shortcuts to make things quicker , but damn , if you're gonna do it , do it right .
                    I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



                    Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

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                    • #40

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                      • #41
                        , I did the valve and carb sync today, and I checked the spring, it's good, I put it back without reset the tensioner. Engine runs good though.




                        Originally posted by md86 View Post
                        But you'll still need to pull it out to reset the ratchet mechanism . It'll take you all of 2.5 minutes to unbolt and pull out . I'm all for shortcuts to make things quicker , but damn , if you're gonna do it , do it right .

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                        • #42
                          yes, it will be fine, what Matt was saying is take the extra time and do it right, but will it be okay? Of course.

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                          • #43
                            mind peaced~~~~


                            Originally posted by arsenic1016 View Post
                            yes, it will be fine, what Matt was saying is take the extra time and do it right, but will it be okay? Of course.

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