Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.
X

Re-occuring fuse problem

Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Re-occuring fuse problem

    So to start
    the title was supposed to say plug not fuse , i am this bad i know

    1996 kat 600
    20,000km
    good battery
    the bike was good for about 1000km and then started running only on the two right side cylinders
    there was a fuel hose kinked up , i cleared that , cleaned off the spark plugs and the bike was working for a few laps around the block but i am an idiot and had it on prime and left the bike on prime overnight and came back in the morning to see a tank of gass all over the floor and bike wouldnt start , starter was good just no spark , killed the battery trying , jumped it with my other bike and cleaned all the plugs bike started and again was good for a few laps and then i ran out of gas at my garage door , when i re fueld it the two left side cylinders were out again and it was a serious pos to start and wouldnt stay going without giving it some gas

    what is causing these 2 left side plugs to keep fouling ? did i f@#$ the bike when i left it on prime ?
    thanks for your time and knowledge oh wise and all knowing kat masters

    is it possible i am not tightening these 2 plugs tight enough? i only use the cheap sparkplug tool and go easy because i hear horror stories of cranking through the threads and having bigger problems
    Last edited by RyanHjelmeland; 05-10-2012, 11:02 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  • #2
    If the bike being left on prime dumped fuel you have carb issues
    if you have carb issues it is flooding and weting /fouling the plugs

    Carbs 101 for rebuild ,check the petcock function and a new set of plugs and your problems should go away
    Blood , its in you to give! http://www.blood.ca/

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by rexazz2 View Post
      If the bike being left on prime dumped fuel you have carb issues
      Not true at all...Prime is designed to let fuel flow to the carbs with or without the motor running. So once the bowls are full, gas has no choice but to come out of the overflows to the floor. Now I do have to say that if it went into the cylinders and crankcase as well, you will definitely need to pull your carbs and replace the float and bowl seals. Also, anytime you foul plugs just be prepared to buy new ones because they only dry out 2-3 times before they become dysfunctional. Hope this will help you get it straightened out
      Oh btw, Welcome from NC!!!

      Oh can't forget change your oil!!! If you got gas in the crankcase DEFINITELY change the oil as it will cause it to smoke like h3ll and dies when it warms up
      Last edited by stretched600; 05-12-2012, 07:48 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by stretched600 View Post
        Not true at all...Prime is designed to let fuel flow to the carbs with or without the motor running. So once the bowls are full, gas has no choice but to come out of the overflows to the floor. Now I do have to say that if it went into the cylinders and crankcase as well, you will definitely need to pull your carbs and replace the float and bowl seals. Also, anytime you foul plugs just be prepared to buy new ones because they only dry out 2-3 times before they become dysfunctional. Hope this will help you get it straightened out
        Oh btw, Welcome from NC!!!

        Oh can't forget change your oil!!! If you got gas in the crankcase DEFINITELY change the oil as it will cause it to smoke like h3ll and dies when it warms up

        Sorry, but that isn't right.

        1. Kat carbs have no over flows... this is why the airbox and crank case get the flooded fuel.

        2. Float needles are there to stop the flow of fuel on all carbs. Their purpose is to stop the fuel from flowing when the bowl is full. The carb floats are what "measure" this... so when the bowl is full of fuel, the float presses against the float needle sealing off the flow of fuel. A great deal of carbed bikes have non vacuum operated petcocks that always flow fuel (manual on and off settings). They don't flood because the float needle works. This is also why it's not a petcock issue if the fuel is flooding out of the carbs... it's a float needle issue inside the carbs... thus a carb issue.

        Krey
        93 750 Kat



        Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

        "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by stretched600 View Post
          ...once the bowls are full, gas has no choice but to come out of the overflows to the floor...
          First of all, they're not overflow tubes, they're vents. Before the fuel level gets that high it's already pouring into the intakes.
          Second, even with the petcock on PRI you shouldn't have flooding issues. Not if the float needles are seating. If everything's good in the carbs then even when the petcock is left on PRI, the floats will cut off the fuel flow when the bowls are full. That's what they're there for.

          The other thing the floats do is regulate the fuel level in the bowls while the bike is running. #1 and #2 carbs have bad float needles. They're not regulating the flow when the bike's running and they're not shutting off the flow when the engine's not running.
          Wherever you go... There you are!

          17 Inch Wheel Conversion
          HID Projector Retrofit

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by stretched600 View Post
            So once the bowls are full, gas has no choice but to come out of the overflows to the floor.
            90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

            Originally posted by Badfaerie
            I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
            Originally posted by soulless kaos
            but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

            Comment


            • #7
              Can i open the top of the carbs without taking them off the bike ? can i just unscrew these tops and look inside and see whats going on in there before i take the carbs off ?

              Comment


              • #8
                Nope. Floats and bowls (where the problem is ) are on the bottom of carbs. Hit the wiki at the top of the page and download carbs101.
                Last edited by phantasm; 05-12-2012, 03:56 PM.
                When all else fails get a bigger hammer

                Comment


                • #9
                  Well thanks for correcting me. I had the right idea wrong explanation

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    the bike heals itself

                    i poke at it and do nothing really but hope and pray because im scared to take off the carbs and somehow the bike is running on all 4 now and starts easy but after running for 10 or 20 minutes it seems to want to die on low rpm, idles and i have to keep the gas going in fear of a stall at a light and it will start up if it stalls but if it stalls twice its game over , I have a feeling it might even be something to do with the throttle ?? it is really nothing for the first quarter turn then it gets to the real gas-to-engine feeling , compared to other bikes i have been on i can tell theres something going on with the gas at low rpms and the handle for the throttle is useless lowand isnt smooth so would it be worth looking into the trottle cable for adjustments ?, do you guys still think its the float needles ?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by RyanHjelmeland View Post
                      i poke at it and do nothing really but hope and pray because im scared to take off the carbs and somehow the bike is running on all 4 now and starts easy but after running for 10 or 20 minutes it seems to want to die on low rpm, idles and i have to keep the gas going in fear of a stall at a light and it will start up if it stalls but if it stalls twice its game over , I have a feeling it might even be something to do with the throttle ?? it is really nothing for the first quarter turn then it gets to the real gas-to-engine feeling , compared to other bikes i have been on i can tell theres something going on with the gas at low rpms and the handle for the throttle is useless lowand isnt smooth so would it be worth looking into the trottle cable for adjustments ?, do you guys still think its the float needles ?

                      YES!

                      And that issue has caused other issues for you. See, when the fuel leaks out of the carbs it has to go somewhere... like into your crank case and mix with the oil. The engine cools each piston by spraying engine oil on the bottom of them... if that oil has gas in it, then that will enrichen the mix in the combustion chamber. This happens more when it's hot, so now... you warm up the engine and now it's running rich.

                      Fix the carbs...

                      Then change your oil.

                      Krey
                      93 750 Kat



                      Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

                      "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X