[katman1260]

I got my first lithium motorcycle batteries today. I cannot believe how light they are. I bought the huge one with 270 cold cranking amps and 18amp/hrs.

It weighs 2.12 lbs and you can see the size difference between the stock sky scraper battery, a newer sport bike battery and the lithium in the middle.

[ThAzKat]

I like the thought of using the lithium! Not only do you save space and weight but that battery can be put anyway you want it. it doesn't have to be upright like the others.

[katman1260]

Today I was working on the signal lights. Repositioning them left me short of lead wire so I had to lengthen them. When I went to the bin I realized that my connectors were too large. On these old beasts, there are two sizes of push together connectors. The signal lights are the small ones and I had none. So, I spliced into the existing wires, soldered and shrink tubed the connections, then covered the whole business with conduit from my friendly neibourhood vintage motorcycle shop. IF you want wiring to look factory this stuff is great.

Front and rear signals are now hooked up. That of course doesn't mean they work. For those new to LEDs, they won't work with the stock signal relay because they don't put enough load on it (heat it up) to activate it. Fortunately, LEDs have been out for some time now so you can get specific signal relays cheap from the automotive parts department for LEDs. With one of my first LED signal bikes I was real cheap. I used the original incondecent bulbs under the plastic firing down across the engine and rear wheel in conjunction with the LEDS. worked great and added more visability to boot.

[katman1260]

Time to update the left control.

Picked up a GSXR 1000 (2008ish) control from ebay. Wow, it wasn't busted and actually worked. Anyways, I am no wiring geek so I blue a few brain cells sorting this out.

Decided to make up a diagram so any of you monkeys can do it too. First off, I used an existing (blue) left hand plug connector off an old busted control. This is only for a 1982 gs1100 katana. Don't know if the "E" or other models are the same. I do know that the '83 katana is different wiring so this diagram though could be used as a guide, may not work.

Now that I have it all working correctly, I will use a new plug and pins so there will be no spliced joints to become a pain later. I am using separate clutch safety wires that work with my clutch. The plug that comes with this control doesn't plug into my clutch assembly.

With this upgrade you get 4way hazards, passing headlight flash and a brand spanking new control that looks far better than that 30 year old platic your sporting now.

Cheers,

[yngveny]

Sweet, wouldn't mind having hazard blinking on my bike.

[Chookykat]

Wow, I can only dream!!!! Good luck!!!!

[six6six]

Sounds like a cool build, there is a turbo katana on my local craigslist with 220hp on a street tune..... if only i had the cash, haha its a nice bike.

[katman1260]

If you are running RS Flatside carbs on your katana, you are going to have to use a push pull throttle. If you do not, you will die. My fuel injection setup also uses a push pull throttle. The reason you need the pull aspect of the throttle is because vacuum will keep the slides wide open and you will have your hands full with a rocket stuck in go fast mode. I took a bike out once for a quick test/tune ride without the second cable connected... you guessed it, broken collar bone and wrecked bike.

Getting back to the build, you will need as I did, a narrow kill/start switch. The stock switch is built into the throttle but with the push pull you need an extra switch now so it has to be small or your throttle won't fit on the bar. There are a number of bikes that have these samll switches like, R1, triumph, SV650 and so on. Just have a look around fleebay for the one you like.

Next the switch needs to be wired for use with the katana. This is where my multimeter comes in handy. After locating which wires belong to the start button and run switch I made up a new plug to connect to my harness. These plugs are available from various vintage motorcycle connector shops. Eastern Beaver and Vintage connections are two companies I use. Here is a tip, start the bike before soldering and shrink tubing (if you are splicing) or crimping up the connector block. You see, you may get the starter to work with the start button but if you don't actually start the bike it may not run when you release the start button. This is due to the wrong wire being connected to the 12vdc live feed going to the switch.

Katanas only have three wires coming from the kill switch. One from the run, one from start button and the other two wires from those switches are connected in the switch so only three run to the harness. So, you have to get the 4 wires connected as three properly to gain proper function.

I am using an SV650 or 1000, not sure, right hand control. I like this control because it has a third function button on it. I will be using this switch as a head light on/off control. Running fuel injection is an amperage burden on a katana so I would like to have my head light off while starting. Also, it's just handy to be able to turn off the head light when you want to.

Here are some more pics of my left hand GSXR 1000 control. Another point I did not mention is that these controls have locating pins that keep the control from rotating on the handle bar. The stock katana control simply pinched the bar using friction to keep it in place. The new switches do not. All you need to do is locate it best you can on the bar, mark the locating pin position, then drill a hole a millimeter or two into the handle bar and you are done.

Oh yeh, there may be two other wires in there, they will be for the brake light. You may or may not wish to use those depending on your setup.

[katman1260]

The new HEL brake lines came in. Steel braid with colored translucent cover and a new EK 140 link chain. The banjo bolts that came with the lines are stainless but I got some anodized aluminum ones. They shop I got them from does them themselves. Very nice, predrilled for safety wire.

[katman1260]

Back at it.....
I have fitted the plastic to the frame. The fairing required some adjusting to fit perfect with the tank and lower fairing pieces but now it fits just how I want it. Nice and tight. When I had fabricated the under seat pan I was using a rear katana seat cowl that did not have an eyebrow on it. Consequently, when I fitted the new tail plastic, the tail light was mounted too far inside the cowl. Fortunately I had left enough metal there so I could move it back an inch or so to fix the problem. The fairing also required some material removed from the inside as there was contact between the fairing and the GSXR 750 forks. All in all, easy procedure.
I have some more plastic and seat work to do. I am just adding my own touch to help it stand out from the other katanas.

[mreedohio]

man thats sick, vintage modded kat is next in line whenever i get around to buying and building a post98 completely designed for 2up/touring.

[katman1260]

All the plastic and the tank went to paint today. Should be back by the end of next week. This gives me time to build the engine and finish all the loose ends.
Started on the tach/speedo bezel today as well. Will have some pics tomorrow. I am thinking I will make a new billet disc to replace the plastic choke dial since it is not in use anymore with the fuel injection.
I cut away some of the plastic and the seat, pics to follow. Its always fun taking a grinder to your brand new plastic. I cut the front fender, lower fairing pieces and the tail section. Check back tomorrow for the pics of what I did to make this bike a little different from the pack.

[ThAzKat]

It all looks great so far! Yes, push/pull is a must!

[katman1260]

Ok, here are the pics of what I did with the plastic. I have to say, it's a little nerve racking to take a grinder to your brand new plastic. Especially when you don't have anymore on hand. As you can see, I have only made some minor changes but I think it will ad to the over all package. I have seen a few guys shorten the front fender and I really like the look so I did it too. The lower fairings and tail contours I have not seen before. I got the idea for the lower fairing pieces when I had one that was broken on the bottom, so I contoured it like you see so I could use the two on the bike. I liked the look.

The trail cut away gives the back end a loftier look without effecting trail and destablizing the bike at high speeds. The katanas by design are quite low in the back so I took the oportunity to cut into it since there is now a renewable supply of glass tails. I didn't have to worry about wrecking an original then having to try and find another one. This contour gives the bike the look of about an inch lift. The look doesn't look complete until I finish with paint and pin striping.

When I finish maching the replacement choke disc I will post pics of that too. Still working on the design.

[katman1260]

Today I did some wiring. I wanted to use leds for my warning lights so here is what I had to do.
First I had to add resistors to each led so they don't blow up as they can not handle 12vdc. I added one resistor to each light I was using. I am using an oil, high beam and one signal light indicator. My neutral light would be handled by my gear shift indicator that I will cover later. As you know, katanas do not have them stock and I was not going to buy a 150.00 gear indicator. Anywho, the next step is to decipher the wiring coming from the harness plug for the dash. OK, did that, now I have to reduce my stock left and right signal light indicator lights to one. How do you do that you ask, well, you need to get two diodes. A diode is a one way electrical device that looks like a resister. It only allows voltage to flow one way. You then solder the diodes to each end of the positive wires for your left and right signal. Since the diode only works one way make sure they are installed correctly. There will be a black band around one end of it, that is the direction it flows. In the picture below you can see how I did it. After that is done twist the to other ends of the diodes together with a wire and solder together. This will be your positive lead to the led lamp in your dash. Then connect the negative lead to the other side of your led and your done. Power will be sent to your light from each side of the switch. If you do not install diodes, all your flashers will work when you try to use the signal lights as voltage will flow to both left and right signals.