[phantasm]

Never underestimate the power of a milling machine

[katman1260]

Okay, first off we've never had a policy about "needing" to be a sponsor to sell here,

However we ask that if you are going to post parts for sale you do so only in the for sale area. If you post an ad for something in a discussion thread don't be surprised if it gets deleted.

Second we don't require anyone to become a sponsor in order to sell, but we do ask you to consider it.

Third katriders.com DOES sell custom sprockets for ANY bike via our relationship with 7th Gear Designs and GSXFJim. It is not accurate to say you are the "only" source for a part which merely requires a machinist with the correct instructions. (including bushings or spacers, or whatever is needed for the custom job)

Point taken. My apologies to all if I seemed over zealous with parts selling. I deleted the post. the comment on the only source was for the spacer front sprocket. That requires more than a machinist to cut splines. Broaches are very expensive and to my knowledge there is no other sprocket available of this design. Obviously I have stepped on someones toes here so I will refrain from advertising any more parts.

You do know Bandit1200 sprockets have the same spline size and are a direct bolt on right? Quit just try to use this thread to push the **** you're selling on your own website. If you want to become a registered forum vendor, talk to the mods.

20 pages of detailed technical information and your first comment is a ***** about me selling a sprocket? I have spent loads of money and time on parts that don't fit or just don't work, even though someone on a forum said they would. My website is dedicated to these kats and mods and all the information is free. Don't have to become a member or 'REGISTER" to save yourself loads of time and money. I offer some parts to offset costs. Maybe one day even turn it into a real business.

I put watermarks on the pics now cuz I have found them on many other peoples sites and I figure if I take the time and trouble to document and photograph mods, people should know who did it. Notice the watermark is a tech site, not a parts site.

You don't mind coming on forums and getting free advise and expertise instead of taking your bike to a shop and paying for it. Thats ok, there are lots of us who share the information we have so guys like you don't have to spend money or lose a season of riding cuz your carbs are dirty.

[ThAzKat]

It really does suck that such a good how to thread turns into what this one has in just 1 page out of 19! Seriously, Bigkat, Steves and katman1260, you are all friends of mine and this community. I would hope that life for one person isn't so bad that they have to be anal about something as simple as Machining. I can list many machinist and as for the sprocket spacer, I can list a thousand forums! OK maybe not a thousand LMAO but atleast 4.
Now can we all just get back to what this thread is really about and stop all the other crap. (Steve, I am not trying to step on any toes here but this is one of the reasons I don't visit here as much anymore)
So far this build is awesome and I am sadly jelious of you to be able to have the machining equipment on hand and the know how to use it properly! Keep up the great work and keep posting so others can follow and maybe copy LOL

[bigkat]

Thazkat, point taken, my apologies...

[Kreylyn]

Yes, please.... continue the build info.

I don't have a vintage Kat ... Yet... but I am loving this build.

Krey

[katman1260]

Well, mounted the front forks today and re&re'd the wheel bearings. Bought 4 "All Balls" bearings and did not like they way they roll, so, bashed them out and replaced them with NSK bearings, that's how I roll. Also mounted a usd fork brace to ad some bling and some sting to the front end.

Mounted some plastic to check fitment and had to change the mounting bolts for the cooler due to contact with lower fairing pieces. then I couldn't get the signals in so, more adjusting. Very happy to have rubber on though and will have a roller in couple days. Couple more adjustements out back with the swing arm. Looking for the best thing to use for the chain slider. My nice new shiny gloss black swinger would not fair very well with chain contact.

Having a stretched swinger adds to the chain droop so I am running an 18/50 tooth setup. That equals the same size as the stock diameter sprockets so don't think that they will look huge on there.
The 2006 gsxr 1000 fender needs some fabbing as well to mount. In the pic there is a bolt missing in the brace cuz the fender was on the wrong side of the fork mount. Fits much better with it on the inside.

[Kreylyn]

..... Looking for the best thing to use for the chain slider. My nice new shiny gloss black swinger would not fair very well with chain contact.

This guy used Delrin machined to shape to make a slider. Perhaps something similiar would work for you?

http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=126655&page=9

Krey

[katman1260]

Here is another pic of the front end in better light. I had to make new brackets for the front mount of the fender. The stock inner bracket is gone as well. The tabs on the 2006 gsxr 1000 fender had to be shortened. It isn't quite perfect yet. I can see I need to tweak it a little but the fine tuning will come later.

[katman1260]

Well, not sure which way to go on this one. I like the digital tach/speedo but I have this nice updated stock set of clocks. ONe I bolt on the other will take all sorts of fabbing. Like I don't have enough to do.
I will have to make a decision pretty quick I think. I am leaning towards the digital clocks with shift lights, 1/4 mile time, 60 foot and all the other bells and whistles.
Which one do you guys like better?

[5forty2]

I like them both, but it would be really cool to have all the benefits of the digital one (1/4 mile time etc.)

[katman1260]

I also have to consider room for future boost gauge, oil pressure and maybe AFR gauge.

[flash007]

It' amazing how much detail you have put forth.

[ThAzKat]

IMHO use the digi! but make previsions for the boost and AFR.

[katman1260]

On thing I need to address is chain droop. With my nice new (expensive) gloss black bandit 1200 swing arm all mounted up and looking so fine, the last thing I want to see is two train tracks from my chian contacting the top of the swing arm. Remember the post about 530 conversions? This is where it comes into play. The bandit 1200 swing arm is much wider at the pivot than the GS or GSX swing arm is, so sprocket diameter plays a big roll. Also, the bandit swing arm is at a greater angle than the stock GS or GSX arm. Add to that the extensions and we are getting dangerously close the the pivot.
I will be running larger sprockets front and rear. My front sprocket will be 18 teeth and the rear 51 teeth. Sounds HUUUUUGE!! doesn't it, but, they are the same diameter as the stock katana sprockets. Physically they are the same size just more teeth on them. As you can see in the pics I also installed the chain slider. As it comes with the bandit 1200 swing arm it is much too wide so I trimmed it down to fit. Another thing you can do is drill and tap the swing arm, then bolt a strip of "DELRIN" nylon onto it. I decided just to go with the stock one for now.

[katman1260]

Got some more work done today. Was working on wiring, fuel pump, surge tank and rear brake master and reservoir. I am using a Ducati rear brake reservoir. They are nice and small, so easy to hide behind the side cover. I will be replacing the Tygon F-4040 fuel line with Tygon 2075 clear brake line. Acording to many as the best tubing made for brake fluid. You can't use it for the presure side just from the res to the master cylinder. I just don't have any at the moment.

Mounting was pretty easy off the custom battery box. I cut an angular spacer to get better hose routing. Avid katana enthusiasts my notice that the master is not off a GS. It is a GSXR master cylinder. I used it because I wanted something smaller and less in the way. It required cutting fabbing and welding a new bracket for it as it does not have the same bolt pattern. Since I had to do that work anyway, I moved the master up so the bottom mounting hole is on the original top mounting hole of the frame. I added the top mounting hole further up to get the master more out of site and to clean up that area giving it a less cluttered look.
Of course that meant machining up a new brake rod out of stainless. The one side is flat for clearance as the bandit 1200 swing arm forces some adjustment of the rear brake pivot arm. Also missing from that area is the rear brake light switch and spring. I did away with that all together. On previous builds I moved it under the peg stay running parallel with it, but this time I used a hydrolic switch that is incorperated with the brake banjo bolt. My new brake lines are ordered and should be here next week. Stainless steel with translucent blue coating, red banjo fitting and blue anodized aluminum banjo bolts.

For those who don't know, it is not recommended to use aluminum fittings with stainless steel lines as the two metals react to each other and cause corrosion. Especially in a salt water environment, like in a coastal city. That being said I have used them without issue for a couple seasons at a time. These ones are all stainless accept for the banjo bolts which have copper crush washers between them and the stainless so I am not concerned. More on that when they arrive.