[katman1260]

I am a fan of clean lines and un-cluttered space. So, when it comes to the rear brake I prefer not to have a torque arm stablizing the caliper. I like to use the armless caliper/hanger set ups used on many Suzuki GSXR's.
In the top picture you can see the tongue and receiver that hold the caliper hanger in place. These were found on the early to mid 1990 GSXR's. The set up I am using is off a 2006 GSXR 1000. I machine up my own receivers to weld on the gsx1200 bandit swing arm. I think they work well and look very clean as you can see from previous pictures. The bottom picture is an inside look at my setup. It is important that you use the correct rotor and spacer as alignment is critical. The 2006 rotor is smaller than the 1999 GSXR. Also, you need to know what year wheel you are using as mixing and matching parts can be dangerous and a nightmare to put together. Visit my tech site www.suzuki-katana.com to see what does work and save yourself headaches, time and money. If you find the information helpful maybe buy something from the parts site www.parts.suzuki-katana.com and help support the site and keep it going.

[katman1260]

Got the tank back from Tigger today. Everything looks good. I added a fuel drain for winters to be able to completely drain and dry the tank. In the pictures you can see the drain, fuel tap, return line and the low fuel warning thermistors.

A thermistor is is an electrical component that has high resistance when cold. As it heats up, resistance drops allowing current to flow. As resistance drops and current flows a circuit is completed. This circuit is what turns on your low fuel light warning of low fuel level. I used one from an sv650 which has a double thermistor. Low and critical low level. This is important with fuel injection as you can't rely on the reserve switch when the bike starts to starve for fuel. Unlike the gs1100e suzuki models, the katana has no fuel gauge so I wanted to come up with some solution to determine fuel level. This was my solution.

The wires that pass through the thermistors are negative ground wires. It should be fairly obvious why you would not want to run live 12 positive wires into a gas tank fuel of fuel and fumes. The return line I made myself out of a 90 degree npt fitting. AN8 to 18mm metric thread. I was going to weld on an AN fitting but thought it may be better not to. If the an fitting got buggered up, I would have to cut it off and weld again. this way it can simply be replaced. An NPT fitting was an option too, but I decided on the 18mm standard weld bung. This is standard for the O2 sensors and is the same thread for the low fuel sensor as well.

The Pingel fuel tap has a round inlet so a little enlarging of the opening for it is in order. If not the inlet will not feed into the tank all the way and forcing it will result in a torn screen. I decided to use the Pingel because one, I had it, and two, I have the ability to shut the fuel off to remove the tank. The other shut off is needed on the return fitting. There I will be using a check valve (one way). If you look close you may be able to see the safety wire on the drain plug. I drilled it because it is in behind the plastic and I didn't want my first indication of a leak to be flames as raw fuel drips onto my cylinder head and exhaust header.

As you can see, the flush mount cap is on too, looks as good as I immagined it would. Very happy with it. The fuel cap is a Harley Sportster cap and trim ring. I may machine a new trim ring myself, but for now I will go with it. It attaches with an adhesive backing. If you do something like this, make sure you use a vented cap.

[il_ragazzo]

so i'm assuming you can't just put a fuel pump on an existing petcock?

[katman1260]

oH BOY!
Time to install my brand new wiring harness. Love new wires, they are so supple and no worries about connections. As you can see from the pics though, I have a real mess to contend with. As you know, I am not a fan of clutter, so something has to be done about this spaghetti, and it will. All my new ground points will come in handy. The techs over at Simply Digital Systems tell me the the best way to ground the EFI system is all together away from any other grounds. That is one reason I added the ground points on the frame. Thinking ahead I used stainless steel so I could leave the metal bare/unpainted for the best connections possible.

There is a lot of wire related to the EFI that I don't need so considerable triming and crimping is in order. Good thing I just bought a brand new crimping tool for the job. I will be able to trim much of the clutter and confusion simply by getting rid of excess wire. I have located components together to minimize wire. I like my rides to look as good under the hood as they do sitting at the curb. This is going to be a bit of work...

[Meeoww]

Isn't it fun?? I found a vintage Kat that I'm going to make an offer on.

[katman1260]

so i'm assuming you can't just put a fuel pump on an existing petcock?

I am using the pingel because its gravity feed. Don't want anything to do with the stock petcock and the vacuum diaphram

[katman1260]

I have added a couple pics due to emails wanting to see the return line into the tank. 90 degree fitting with a 7 inch 3/8 ID stainless steel tube that I machined to fit inside AN 8 fitting.
There sure is a lot of wire to sort out between the EFI, katana harness and the Dyna ignition wires. As usual with products you buy for your resto-mod, the wiring is not fitted to your application necessarily so changes have to be made. Many of those changes are sizing and fitting connectors to the wiring. The Dyna 2000 comes with about 4 feet more harness than you need. I have cut/sized most of the wiring now which includes soldering, crimping and shrink hose for all the turminals. When I could I used sheathing to cover multiple wires that you can get from your local or not so local vintage motorcycle shop.
I also suggest investing in quality electrical tape, and the quality crimper. When shortening wires I cut and solder back together then double shrink wrap before sheathing. Things aren't looking so cluttered now but more work is needed. As you can see in the pics I made a tin cover for the wiring to help clean up the look of things. I am not sure if it is working for me or not. If you are wondering what the polished plate is with the two gold resisters on it is, they are needed for the injectors. I could use the "SIMPLY DIGITAL SYSTEMS" controler for the ignition but I prefer to use the Dyna 2000 system.
The Dyna 2000 has a retard, safety switch, rev limiter and multiple advance curves. By keeping the ignition and fuel seperate, it is less complicated to trouble shoot and set up. I have yet to finish the wheels as there has been some reaction issues with the paint, combined with some chilly days in the shop. I am waiting for a milder day to finish them and get them off for tire mounting.

[katman1260]

Bit of a setback today with the usb charger. I spent hrs last night de-soldering and re-soldering to get the iphone charging with this new board. Everything was working fine so I encapsulated it with epoxy.
Today I machined up a frame for the volt meter and wired up the usb, activation switch and the volt meter. I am using a switch so I can control when these items are active. The usb port uses power even when nothing is pluged in (I am told) as well as the volt meter. So, now, I can turn everything on only when I want to check volt status of the battery, or use the usb plug. The volt meter is to monitor battery status generally but also to keep track while charging is happening when the bike is parked and turned off. I don't anticipate any issues with the new Lithium Iron battery I will be using.
I wired everything up and guess what, no charge to the iPhone. There seems to be a problem with the data lines, because as you can see below, the usb is out putting power. For most usb applications this would be fine but the iPhone is a odd duck and needs active data wires. So, back at it again when I receive some more boards.
The surrounds for the push button switch, volt meter and usb plug will probably be painted gloss black and not left raw aluminum. The volt meter is reading high because it is on charge.

YOUTUBE of it working: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyWztCHW8Ec"]YouTube - iphone_usb_charger_katana.flv[/ame]

[katman1260]

OK boys and girls. If you don't know already, the Suzuki charging system stinks. I recommend replacing the stator and the regulator / rectifier with aftermarket components before your harness melts and your battery boils over and explodes.
For the katana, there are two extra wires that are not needed. They are Green with White tracer, and White with Red tracer. The stator connects to one and the regulator / rectifier connects to the other. where do they go? They run through the harness upto the right hand control plug and loop around back. It is a very long way to connect the stator to the regulator / rectifier. A better idea is to just connect all three wires coming from the stator to the regulator.
The regulator will have two more wires. Black, which is ground and Red, which connects to the red wire on the harness which feeds the battery. The aftermarket stators and regulators all have the same color wires because it doesn't matter how you connect the three. Just plug them all into the regulator. In the picture below you can see the Red/white plugged into the Green/white. That is just a closed loop up to the right hand control plug and back down.
If you use another type of reg/rec it may have another wire which is probably the status wire that tells the reg/rec how the battery is. Connect that directly to the battery. If you don't, and connect it to a switched power wire, you run the risk of over charging the battery as the reg/rec may see less voltage due to resistance and corrosion in the wires.
A side note, there are only two types of reg/rec controlers. One for lower output stators and one for higher output stators. As far as the katana is concerned, any regulator / rectifier will work on our bikes. It is just some have more wires than others. They will all do the same job.

[katman1260]

I was unhappy with my last set of signal lights. Not very bright, not many leds and a little small. I have found a new set that I really like. I haven't seen this shape before but maybe I just don't get around very much. There has been much discussion about getting led lights to work properly on a bike. There are expensive solutions on the internet if you have too much money and want to stimulate the economy. You can go the cheap route like me two seasons ago. I hid the incondescent bulb signals under the katana plastic in a way that they would splash the engine and rear wheel when activated, while using the led signal lights in the usual signal location. A bit of bling for no bucks. I may do it again, or I may just go to my local automotive parts store and pick up a signal flasher unit for led lights (10.00) The reason the led lights won't flash is they don't draw enough current to activate the stock flasher. At least that is what I was told. A few years ago the solution was not as simple as today.
The old oval signals only have 8 led lights, where as the new ones have 18. The new leds also light up the tips for warning anyone to the side of the bike. They are a little larger than the old ones, brighter and a better design in my opinion. Another reason I like them is they match my new billet mirrors pretty good. I should have them in a couple weeks from Hong Kong.

[ThAzKat]

I am doing the same setup on the back of my GS1100E but with a Hayabusa swingarm, I also have to do the 5/8th spacer. Going to the smaller chain does help a lot with clearance. What is your mod. for the seat pan?

[katman1260]

I am doing the same setup on the back of my GS1100E but with a Hayabusa swingarm, I also have to do the 5/8th spacer. Going to the smaller chain does help a lot with clearance. What is your mod. for the seat pan?

The seat pan? I just started with some tin, got the shape I wanted and then bend some alum. The tricky part is the rear tail light mount.

[katman1260]

I got the wheels back today from powder. As usual, there is some clean up afterwards. The bike shop was very carefull not to mark the new rims. I don't know what you all pay for mounting and balancing wheels but I think $85.00 is a little excessive for two wheels.
The pictures do not do them justice. These rims are spectacular. They are powdered with "110% gloss black". That is what powder dude told my anyhow. All I know is, they sure are shiny. As usual all did not go as planned. I bought 4 "All Balls" bearings for the wheels from the local shop and they need to come out and be replaced. They are tight to turn and not smooth at all. Back to get some Japanese bearings.
Make sure if you powder or media blast wheels, you replace the bearings. I leave them in to protect the bearings surfaces and knock them out when the wheels are blasted. You can't leave them in for powder and 400 degree baking.
I protected all the rotor threads with rotor bolts because I thought may as well instead of painting them myself. As you can see in the pic that I had to refit the socket head to the rotor bolt. Remember, powder is thick. There are a million and one things to do on this bike, and if I was not already nuts, I sure would be by the end of this build. See pic, I had to turn down the locking nut on my lathe for the rear brake push rod. Its OD was a little large and to close to the swingarm. I turned it down until there was just a little flat surface left to get a wrench on it to tighten. There has been so many of these little details, sometimes it takes the fun out of doing it. I still have to do some more adjusting of the rear brake pivot as I don't want to scratch the new powder on the swingarm.
There are days when I feel light pushing it all to the curb and buying a brand new bike, but, I know it will all be worth it when I'm ridin her. Oh, yeh, the tires are Shinko Podiums ( I am sure some of you have comments about them), rotors are Galfer.

[bigkat]

Th

Next issue to consider is, the stock front sprocket is sandwiched between two plates. The inside plate has a larger hole to allow the countershaft bushing to but up against the steel sprocket. The outside of the sprocket, has a smaller in the plate and the lock nut buts up against it. In the pictures below I have illustrated this so you can see that there is a 6mm spacer on the stock 630 sprocket. The sprocket you see beside it is a sprocket of my own design that has the 6mm spacer built into it for ease of installation. These sprockets are only available from my website http://www.parts.suzuki-katana.com. Remember, the spacer goes to the outside. I get many, many emails regarding this confusion. If you look on the stock sprocket you can see three philips screws. Take them off and you are left with a flat sprocket. If you try to bolt up a 530 sprocket without the spacer, you will not be able to tighten up the locking nut as it will hit the spline on the output shaft before it comes in contact with the sprocket. This is where the spacer comes into play. Also available from my site is a custom designed aluminum rear sprocket, which is also exclusively to parts.suzuki-katana.com.

IF you are using a bandit swing arm then you need a custom offset sprocket, not the common 5/8' offset. At http://www.parts.suzuki-katana.com you can find the correct offset sprocket for a 5.5" bandit or gsxr rear rim.

You do know Bandit1200 sprockets have the same spline size and are a direct bolt on right? Quit just try to use this thread to push the **** you're selling on your own website. If you want to become a registered forum vendor, talk to the mods.

[steves]

Okay, first off we've never had a policy about "needing" to be a sponsor to sell here,

However we ask that if you are going to post parts for sale you do so only in the for sale area. If you post an ad for something in a discussion thread don't be surprised if it gets deleted.

Second we don't require anyone to become a sponsor in order to sell, but we do ask you to consider it.

Third katriders.com DOES sell custom sprockets for ANY bike via our relationship with 7th Gear Designs and GSXFJim. It is not accurate to say you are the "only" source for a part which merely requires a machinist with the correct instructions. (including bushings or spacers, or whatever is needed for the custom job)