Advice needed on oil change for Spring

[J. Kidd]

Back in November I cracked my engine cover. Got a new one and installed it (had to drain the oil at that point). Put fresh oil in and since then I think I've only ridden a few hundred miles. Maybe once in December, once in January and then just last week. I really didn't get a chance to ride too much this winter. She's been in a garage and out of the elements. I'm going to have the valves adjusted, cables lubed, frame bolts tightened, etc.

My question is, should I change my oil again since I didn't get to do too much riding through the winter? Will it be OK or should I not take the chance?

Also, how often do you guys replace your brake fluid? And is it just a matter of opening the drain valve and refilling the reservoir?

Thanks.

[freight dog]

It's been nearly 5 months, yes change the oil. I would personally change the oil with inexpensive dino oil, run a tank of fuel with Techron to clean the carburetor (assuming you have let old unstabilized fuel sit in the tank) and then change the oil again. Old oil is bad, gummy carbs are worse. Do the first oil change to coincide with the valve adjustment.

[slayergsxf1]

Oil doesnt cost much and its an easy thing to do...If you have to ask the question than do it dude...Your bike will thank you in years to come.

[md86]

Brake fluid is kinda a pain to change unless you got Speedbleers . Not REAL hard to do , but helps to have an extra pair of hands , and can take a little while . Speedbleeders though , you can do the whole job in 10 minutes by yourself . But if your fluid is old , your brakes will feel WAY better when you're done .

[WildKat]

I usually replace my brake fluid once every 2 years, doesnt take real long at all and standard fluid will last that long without problems unless your ride really hard, all year around..but since you winterize you should be fine every 2 years, IMO.

As far as oil, definately change it. I change mine just before winterizing, not the filter though, no sense doing that if its just gonna sit..then I also drain out all the oil and replace it along with the filter in spring.

[tzortn]

I thought that the manual recommends changing brake fluid every year. In any case it is not too hard to do and the fluid is not expensive. Changing it more often would not hurt.

[The CyberPoet]

My guidelines on changing brake fluid:

Change at least every other year, every year if you live in a high-humidity area (above 50% humidity much of the year, or in the 90% range during the summer).

I sell the speedbleeder kits cheap (see the parts for sale section, stickies by the top, $32.00 for the pre-98 600/750 Kat kit delivered). Includes full instructions on bleeding, installation, plus a guarantee that if you screw up your caliper when installing/bleeding, the caliper will be repaired for the cost of shipping. Doesn't get any better than that.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[J. Kidd]

Thanks to all.

The bike is at the shop right now for a valve adjustment (and a valve adjustmen ONLY). Cool shop - he understood I could the rest of myself and didn't keep trying to press their "full service" (change oil, clean and lube chain, etc.). I drove her for a couple days before going in and she ran strong - other than that damn donut getting sucked into the air filter

The plan is, once I get it back, I'll run through a tank of Techron to clean out the fuel system and then change the oil.

It's been two years since the brake fluid was done so I'm going to look into doing that, also. Cyber - I might be placing that order soon.

I've got a pressure-bleeder for my car. I'm assuming it works along the same principle.

[The CyberPoet]

It's been two years since the brake fluid was done so I'm going to look into doing that, also. Cyber - I might be placing that order soon.

I've got a pressure-bleeder for my car. I'm assuming it works along the same principle.

It's a set of replacement bleeders with a one-way valve in them (spring & ball-bearing) to keep air from going back up the line when you bleed them. They don't let anything through when closed; permit stuff to come out but not go in when open. Thus, you need no tools, just the ability to make some pressure from the brake lever & fluid to keep topping off the reservior.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet