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Decided to get this going: #2 cylinder has a lower PSI reading than the others, figure it needs a look see.
Will add on: mild port & polish, cam degree jobs.
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So glad I'm past the filthy frustrating part of this job!!!!
Mostly I'm just gonna clean up the combustion chambers and valves, inspect parts and replace if needed, lap in the valves.
Will polish some, and there might be a lump or seam to grind flat.
I won't doing step by step here, and no pics of clean nuts and bolts on clean tables.
There's plenty of great and boring how-to videos on youtube, for those who want it.
PS: I just became a supporting member!
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One thing I need to ask you Bill, I remember your cable clutch conversion, you said that the pushpin ("pushrod" according to parts fiche) the one you made from a screwdriver was 99mm long ? I just bought a pushrod off ebay thinking it would be longer and just need to be grinded down to 99mm, but a stock pushpin is only 80mm ('92 750cc). Can you re-measure yours while you have it out ? Please
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One thing I need to ask you Bill, I remember your cable clutch conversion, you said that the pushpin ("pushrod" according to parts fiche) the one you made from a screwdriver was 99mm long ? I just bought a pushrod off ebay thinking it would be longer and just need to be grinded down to 99mm, but a stock pushpin is only 80mm ('92 750cc). Can you re-measure yours while you have it out ? Please
I kinda have it out, I had to unbolt the sprocket cover to reach an engine mount bolt.
Will get back to this project Thursday morning, and I'll measure the pin.
PS: It's been working very well since installed.
I don't know how far your going on the rebuild, but from what I've gathered from gixxer.com, you are supposed to be able to swap a oil cooled GSXR 750 six speed transmission in to these Katana 1100 blocks. According to those guys, the GSXR 1100 owners had been inquiring about the upgrade and they suggested using Katana blocks during rebuilds for this purpose.
I dunno, on the track with any liter bike we only use 2 gears mostly, 2nd and 3rd. We love it that way, because it simplifies cornering. It's the great attraction of choosing a liter bike.
The 1127 has 86 ft of torque, more than any other liter bike until just recently.
Don't need to shift down to 1st except for one hairpin on one track I do.
Can only get into 4th for a couple seconds mid straight of some tracks.
I'm gonna try a 52 tooth rear sprocket next summer, just to get through those gears quicker, and never having to use 1st at all.
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One thing I need to ask you Bill, I remember your cable clutch conversion, you said that the pushpin ("pushrod" according to parts fiche) the one you made from a screwdriver was 99mm long ? I just bought a pushrod off ebay thinking it would be longer and just need to be grinded down to 99mm, but a stock pushpin is only 80mm ('92 750cc). Can you re-measure yours while you have it out ? Please
Yes, it is 99mm x 5mm. I remember I paid a bit of money on an OEM pushrod, then I cut it a tiny bit too short by 1mm…meh!! I had a new cheap screwdriver for light jobs and saw it was the same thickness, so cut it at 99mm and that worked.
98mm is too short, 100mm is too long.
Yes, it is 99mm x 5mm. I remember I paid a bit of money on an OEM pushrod, then I cut it a tiny bit too short by 1mm…meh!! I had a new cheap screwdriver for light jobs and saw it was the same thickness, so cut it at 99mm and that worked.
98mm is too short, 100mm is too long.
Do you recall what bike you bought your pushpin for ? The reason I ask is because as I previously stated, a '92 Katana 600cc or 750cc was only 80mm and 6mm thick (actually the one I bought was bent alittle/from wrecked bike for $4). I've not taken my stock 1100 pin out to measure it, so it very well could be long enough to shave down. The bike isn't in a good spot where I can pull the cover off, and will not be until summer. I'm just trying to get all my parts together for the swap. Thanks for your help !
It must have been for the 92 GSXR1100.
That bike has a hydraulic clutch lever, with a slave cylinder over the pushrod.
The cable clutch lever is lighter and has better feel.
I concur. Great job! I've ported single cylinder heads, but the idea of trying to get ports to match has put me off from doing headwork to the extra Kat head I have laying around. I did start collecting scraps of plastic tubing in case I decided to build a flow bench, but that'a a whole project in itself.
Seriously, you must have amazing patience to do such a consistently good job.
Well, because the Suzuki heads are already so well designed and constructed, mostly all I had to do was de-carbonize all the surfaces.
I did find some minor irregularities in the exhaust ports to grind off. I'm gonna go back there and match the exhaust ports to the header seals.
These motorcycle head ports are smaller than a car engine head, some of the porting stones don't fit.
I also de-shrouded the valve pockets near the cylinder walls.
The intake ports were about perfect, and they should not be polished as a rule.
The valves and their stems were carbonized, so I cleaned those up too.
I can see at least one valve edge is a bit over pitted, that and anymore I find will be replaced.
I just want to regain the original HP of a new engine.
From what I've seen online, it's the old wedge head V8 heads that really need serious port work.
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