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1100 Kats ONLY! Info & discussions about our Big Brothers - the 1100 Kats

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Old 06-14-2015, 04:02 PM   #1
katanarider
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Default 17" swap

Disclaimer: Any one who decides to replicate my swap, I am not responsible for any injuries or property damage that may occur as a result. You take your own risk and YOU are responsible for your own actions.

I just got the back tire mounted and when I get the time & money I'll finish the front. I'm sort of busy these days. Anyway, lets start with the
REAR:
I've read just about every post on the 17" swap that this web site contains. Here are my results thus far.
I decided to follow the thread from memeber "Nut-Nut" because the way he did his back tire seemed the easiest and I just like the round spokes better. Of course, there are easier ways to convert the front.
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=119546
After much cross referencing of parts, I took a chance and decided the late '90s Bandit 1200 wheels were basically the same as the the 750cc he used. Once I had started I encountered a difference in my swingarm compared to other Kat1100s. My bike ('88) does not have the indents/slot on the swingarm where the axle adjusters are located. This made the GSXR brake bracket fit using Nut-Nuts method, but I couldn't get one of the adjusters mounted and I believe the tire positioned to the right. Never the less, it was about 1-2mm too tight. I decided to swap some things around.
I used:
1) Kat1100 sprocket studs on the B12 carrier. The studs are about 3mm shorter which gave me more room to play and they fit flush with the nuts.
2)Kat1100 sprocket carrier out side bushing which is 12mm compared to GSXR/B12 16mm.
3) B12 wheel
4)Kat1100 right side spacer 21mm compared to GSXR 13mm.
5) Kat1100 Brake Bracket and caliper.
6) Two 7/8" ID x (0.135" or 3.4mm thick) washers on the far right of the axle.
UPDATE/EDIT:
At this point I still needed to space out the brake caliper bolts and modify the torque arm mounts. Continue reading through post #3 for better pictures and spaced caliper.
Here are the first pics from my iphone which has a screen protector that causes glare.








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My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

Last edited by katanarider; 10-09-2015 at 11:01 AM..
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Old 06-14-2015, 08:24 PM   #2
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For any one that has the later style swingarm with the indents and wants to do the swap like "Nut-Nut", I have the parts.

*** UPDATE: ***
Parts no longer available !

Last edited by katanarider; 06-24-2015 at 04:45 PM..
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Old 06-15-2015, 04:06 PM   #3
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Ok, got some some washers and bolts to space the brake caliper.
The bolts are: M10 x 1.25 according to my local hardware store. I just know they are 1 1/4" long.
The washers are 2mm each and I've got 2 on each bolt. So, 4mm each bolt !
I still need to modify the torque arm some how.
Here are some better pictures of the clearances between the swing arm and sprocket bolts. Sorry, this phone has a mirror protective film that makes it really hard see.

EDIT: Upon further inspection, I found the brake line is too close for comfort to the tire. I've yet to figure out how I'm going to handle it. At this point, I'm considering simply strapping it tight against the swingarm with a zip tie, or just replacing the hose. I don't know yet.




Last edited by katanarider; 06-15-2015 at 08:55 PM..
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Old 06-15-2015, 09:03 PM   #4
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Sub'd

Keep it up!
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Old 06-16-2015, 08:26 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shpielers View Post
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Keep it up!
I was thinking about the trouble you've been going through with your rear tire, not tracking and all. I thought you may appreciate the write up. Have you tried to use your stock spacers like I did ? I feel the older 5.5" slant spokes may line up too, but you know more about that than I do. Just saying.
EDIT: Or try the GSXR spacers. FYI, GSXR brake bracket is 36mm thick & Kat1100 brake bracket is 24mm thick. Stock Kat1100 chain adjusters are 3mm thick per edge.
The B12 & GSXR spocket carriers are the same thickness at ALL points, so they are almost identical. The only difference are the bearings sizes and a pressed on bushing on the wheel side of the B12 carrier.
Re-read my post #1 for additional information to do calculations.

As for my progress, I'm behind on a lot of bills. I've already over spent my cash limit on this bike. It looks like it may take a while to get to the front. I'm basically coping your method on the front rim, but I'm lowering forks. That means a few extra bucks to save which also means longer wait. Don't hold your breath. Thanks tho

Last edited by katanarider; 06-16-2015 at 02:18 PM..
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Old 06-19-2015, 06:03 PM   #6
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My personal fabricator, Mr Stanely the 4 1/2 lb Sledge Hammer fixed my brake torque arm for me this afternoon. I must say, he does exceptional work and saved me a few dollars in the process. My tire won't be rubbing that thing any more. Now it lines up perfectly, so no spacers/washers are required.

Last edited by katanarider; 06-19-2015 at 06:11 PM..
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:36 PM   #7
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Been gone for a while but Mr. Stanley gave me a chuckle. I don't suggest changing the bike's geometry by lowering the forks, though. As soon as the finances allow, swap the front to a 17" rim and you'll really like it.
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:22 AM   #8
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Bill, my bike is a '88. From what I've read, I have the worst handling model. According to the web, Suzuki changed the geometry on later years. Just by looking at several other Kat11 pictures, I'm under the impression that my swingarm and my rake is different. My forks appear out further. Lowering it should bring them in a bit. Plus, my rear seems to sag which means the geometry is even more out of spec. Lowering it will probably do it some good and make it sit normal. LOL... Even so, I'm willing to adjust my riding style if I must. I just like the lowered stance that much.

On the B-side of things, I have a little update. I felt like the pictures I posted of the spacing between the sprocket nuts and the chain adjuster were not satisfactory. Therefore, I took the time to actually measure the clearance, its 3mm. Yikes, thats closer than I first thought. Honestly, I'm gonna ride it any way until I get some things figured out. I just don't want any of YOU GIRLS getting hurt, so thinner fasteners should be on the menu ! EDIT: I've come to realize that 3mm clearance is what my Kat600 has from the factory. So, apparently 3mm is safe tolerance as far as Suzuki is concerned. I wish I would have measured the clearance before I started the swap. You girls may want to take a measurement before you begin, to confirm.
Next, I've bought a new brake hose. I measured the distance between the master cylinder and the caliper bolt, its 15 inches. The most comfortable hose I could find was 18" inches and has straight, 10mm eye fittings. There is a little concern about it rubbing the rear foot peg bolt and the inner fender lip. It shouldn't be a problem if I notice I need to shorten a bolt or trim some plastic.
Last, after riding the bike back and forth through the front and back yards of my house and the neighbors, plus a small field...of course I went over several humps. I noticed the inner fender had rubbed the tire. I think its done about all its gonna do.



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Old 06-30-2015, 12:10 PM   #9
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Hitting the inner fender is a normal result of using a wider tire. Nut-Nut and I have solved that problem by tying the inner fender to the frame on the right side using a couple wire-ties.
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:49 PM   #10
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Lowered the front and replace my dust seals today. Its 1 1/4" lower. I must say, I love it. It sits even and my position on the bike feels alot better. I think my rear shock isn't good and causing sag. I can already tell it handles better just by beating around the yard and jumping humps. I still have the stock mushy fork springs. I wanted to see how far I could go before impacting the fender in stock fashion since my oil seals are ok. I used a old timers hot rod trick, smushing Play Doh between the horn and fender. After a few passes through my neighbors yard...lol...I was able to hit a pot hole and catch some air. Although the Play Doh cushioned the blow enough that it would not completely bottom out the forks as it did before I placed it there, you get the idea that the stock springs only allow 1 1/4" drop. Once I install my Sonic 1.1 springs, I could possibly go a bit lower. For any one wondering how I lowered the bike, I bought some 41mm clip-ons.
I've posted before and after pictures. The before pics are from the ad I found on the web when I first purchased the bike.
I hope you all like it, I sure do.
BEFORE:


AFTER:



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