kat problems

[Tekgnome]

Hello again

So im back and am in a bit of a pickle

My bike has been in the shop for a couple of weeks. I was supposed to pick it up a week ago but it kept on stalling under load

Here is the biks config

750cc
Individual pod filtes
Full V&H exhaust with baffle delete
130 mains
Needles 3 notches from the top
New plugs

I dropped the bike off to get jetted and the carbs cleaned because

1.

I removed the airbox and the bike stopped wanting to idle and wouldn't want to rev past 10k and toped out around 110-120mph. It to me indicated a lean condition. I did ride less than 250 miles with no filter. Bike did not have this problem with the airbox on.

2.
At high speeds it would hesitate occasionally indicating a pluged main jet.
P. O. Said he never had the carbs cleaned


The old Jets in the carb were 116.

The shop fitted pods and ended up buying a jet kit as my needles were worn.

Symptoms

The bike will start and idle off choke when warm.

Bike will start to ride in gear but falls flat on its face. You have to apply full throttle to keep it from stalling.

I couldn't get it above 10mph at full throttle

Rpms go down until it stalls

What i checked

Fuses
Fuel is good
Petcock flow is perfect
Idles great and you can rev to redline perfect

Pods or no pods it does the saim thing.

Exhaust has never had a baffle and I never had a issue with it.
I do not have a baffle for it.

The shop owner said it is intermittent and that some times it works perfect.
("****** just had it around the block with the front wheel up in 2nd")

He thinks it's Electrical but it is hard to believe that I put over 1000miles on it the last month with zero problems like this. I rode it in to the shop and can't drive it away?
There was some shoddy wiring connectors to the cdi, he replaced it and it didn't help the issue.


Any one have any ideas here?

Im $800 in the hole and I already paid.
Im not going to mention the shop name, there's only 2 guys who work there and they only have so much time in a day to spend on a bike. They have been nice and even gave me a ride home.

[92xjunker]

Easy fix, put the stock parts back on. Pods don't work well on a Kat. Or buy flat slide carbs.

[Tekgnome]

Easy fix, put the stock parts back on. Pods don't work well on a Kat. Or buy flat slide carbs.

I ran it with no filter, just the boots for the airbox for less than 250 miles and had no issues other than a lean condition. Wben he remove the pods it still did the same exact thing , falling flat on its face under load . It would even idlel fine with no pods on

Pods or no pods it did the same thing.

[92xjunker]

I can go round and round with you. Use the search above. See for yourself.

[Tekgnome]

I can go round and round with you. Use the search above. See for yourself.

I tried to but it won't work on my phone, and I don't have access to the internet on my computer.

Im sure there's a lot of things it can be i was hoping that someone would have seen something like this or know an idea.

[92xjunker]

Give this a try. 1) oil the filters ( required on pods to ensure proper filtration) 2) ensure the inside of the Pod boot isn't blocking the air jet ( the little holes on the rim of the carb bore, intake side) 3) make sure the diaphragm has no pin holes and is set properly in the groove. When it bogs try to give it a little choke, see if it improves.

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=132223http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=120519

[Tekgnome]

Give this a try. 1) oil the filters ( required on pods to ensure proper filtration) 2) ensure the inside of the Pod boot isn't blocking the air jet ( the little holes on the rim of the carb bore, intake side) 3) make sure the diaphragm has no pin holes and is set properly in the groove. When it bogs try to give it a little choke, see if it improves.

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.p...d.php?t=120519

Pods were oiled and the shop cut a notch in the inside of each pod to ensure proper flow. We originally had a pod issue blocking the lip of the carb but once he cut out a notch in the pod boot the bike idled and would rev perfect. Im just not sure if it pods as we took them off and had the same problem.


The shop still has the bike so ill shoot him a couple of texts around lunch.

The bike almost seemed like it was flooding.
After i stalled it out in the street it took like 60 seconds cranking it to get it to start and you had to pull the throttle all the way open.

Once started it would rev perfect and could even hit the limiter buy still could barely accelerate.

He took it around the block and came back with it almost stalling (no pods) in the parking lot.
He was at full throttle but barely going 5mph

[TRPUT]

Does the same with or without filters ... that should be telling you how effective the filters are. The CV carbs require some resistance to air flow to function properly or lots and lots of time (and dollars if you're paying for the time) to get close with pods. Hundreds of miles without filters won't be doing your engine any good.

These carbs also like some back pressure in the exhaust. So, opening up a full system by removing the baffle will compound the problem, and make the carbs function erratically.

Not sure why you want pods and an open can. Given the nature of the Kat, it's a massive headache for loss rather than gain. If you refit the airbox, a stock air filter and insert the exhaust baffle, you will find it far easier to tune (actually, it will become possible to tune it) and you might miraculously fix that electrical fault too.

[shpielers]

Does your mech have access to a dyno? Pop it on one that can show a/f results. Willing to wager it will show up as very lean.

You put in very big mains to try to make up for the pods/baffles, but did you change any pilot jets or adjust the A/F screws? Main jets primary effect is ~7k-redline. What was done to address idle/low/mid rpms? If your answer is nothing, well...that's part of the problem.

[Tekgnome]

Does the same with or without filters ... that should be telling you how effective the filters are. The CV carbs require some resistance to air flow to function properly or lots and lots of time (and dollars if you're paying for the time) to get close with pods. Hundreds of miles without filters won't be doing your engine any good.

These carbs also like some back pressure in the exhaust. So, opening up a full system by removing the baffle will compound the problem, and make the carbs function erratically.

Not sure why you want pods and an open can. Given the nature of the Kat, it's a massive headache for loss rather than gain. If you refit the airbox, a stock air filter and insert the exhaust baffle, you will find it far easier to tune (actually, it will become possible to tune it) and you might miraculously fix that electrical fault too.

Other than being lean at wot ive had it running with no filters with no problems.

Not sure about the pilot jet and the a/f screws
what pilot should I be running?

[loneraider]

( Im $800 in the hole and I already paid.
Im not going to mention the shop name, there's only 2 guys who work there and they only have so much time in a day to spend on a bike. They have been nice and even gave me a ride home.)


You do realize that you paid a shop $800.00 to try & fix your bike that has
parts on it that are not designed to make your bike run properly.
You should find the original parts ( airbox, stock filter, exhaust ) factory jetting ect..
clean the carbs the right way & you should have a good running motorcycle.
The way its setup now your just chasing your tail.

[92xjunker]

If it were me, I would reset the bike back a little and progress forward slowly. Reinstall the stock jets, airbox and filter. A/F screws at 2.5 turns out. Get it running perfectly then progress forward. I'm thinking you have a carb issue that is being covered or exaggerated by the use of pods and oversized jets. You may want to look at swapping your cam, which would help with pod operation.

[Tekgnome]

( Im $800 in the hole and I already paid.
Im not going to mention the shop name, there's only 2 guys who work there and they only have so much time in a day to spend on a bike. They have been nice and even gave me a ride home.)


You do realize that you paid a shop $800.00 to try & fix your bike that has
parts on it that are not designed to make your bike run properly.
You should find the original parts ( airbox, stock filter, exhaust ) factory jetting ect..
clean the carbs the right way & you should have a good running motorcycle.
The way its setup now your just chasing your tail.

They weren't really fixing it, i never had this issue before i brought it to them.
It was lean but it still drove fine.

Ill see what I can do about restoring it and finding the issue.
He's trying to say that it was a pre existing problem and that i brought it to them like this.
Which is definitely not true, the bike never displayed any stalling issues. Or hard starting after stalling, or complete lack of power.

Apparently the whole shop is on vacation for however long.
He won't answer calls and stopped texting me.


Im just so frustrated, i gave them the bike a week early, and it's now over a week late, they have had it for 3 weeks

I didn't think about it but i noticed that the carbs sometimes spit fuel, like driping and spewing every where. It didn't do it before I took it to them but i noticed when I pulled a pod. There was enough fuel to saturate the pod.

It was enough to pool in the carb opening.

Is this supposed to happen, i told him about it but he shugged it off.

[TRPUT]

Other than being lean at wot ive had it running with no filters with no problems.

So, the particles in the unfiltered air it's breathing in a lean environment lacking sufficient lubrication isn't scouring the cylinder walls and wearing the valve seats? Good to know.

You might think it's running fine ... essentially because it's running at all. If you followed the advice posted by several people already and set it back to stock with a good carb clean and tune, you would discover what running fine with no problems is really like.

I didn't think about it but i noticed that the carbs sometimes spit fuel, like driping and spewing every where. ... There was enough fuel to saturate the pod. It was enough to pool in the carb opening.

Is this supposed to happen, i told him about it but he shugged it off.

Do you think that might be meant to happen?

The shop is screwing you.

[Tekgnome]

So, the particles in the unfiltered air it's breathing in a lean environment lacking sufficient lubrication isn't scouring the cylinder walls and wearing the valve seats? Good to know.

You might think it's running fine ... essentially because it's running at all. If you followed the advice posted by several people already and set it back to stock with a good carb clean and tune, you would discover what running fine with no problems is really like.



Do you think that might be meant to happen?

The shop is screwing you.

Definitely going to see if it can be put back, stock airbox with k&n filter, 116 mains, and a v&h full exhaust with baffle delete. That is how I bought it and it ran amazing other than a occasion hesitation when travelling at wot at 50mph or more.

So how do I handle the shop? I have no way to tow the bike and i have little experience with carbs. I found a shop that is a little bit further out but they have a dyno.