Ticking at 4000rpm

[wing]

Ok guys, got another problem now.

My bike is at 60,000km (37,500miles) and it's started to tick between 3,500rpm to 4,000rpm. About 1-2 months ago I clicked my chain tensioner in 1 click which stopped some major chain rattle. I knew it was still a little loose so over the weekend I clicked it in 1 more click. Now the ticking is even louder between those rpms. I can't hear any whining from the valve train so I don't think I'm too tight. I can hear it no matter which gear I'm in, it's slightly louder when decelerating. I had my valves checked and adjusted at 45,000km (28,000 miles). Any ideas what it could be? I've booked in with my mechanic but they can't look at it till next Friday.

[shpielers]

Time for a valve adjustment? Interval is something like 7500 miles, so that puts you at overdue. Even if it doesn't solve your problem, it crosses one thing off the list and your bike could use it anyways.

[JIB]

How much does you chain move up and down?

[TRPUT]

Did you have your valves "checked and adjusted" or just checked??? There's a big difference. If they were all roughly within spec but not even, they could well be out now. Get them spot on (it's an easy but fiddly and time-consuming DIY job the first time), ensure the carbs are good and synch them and the valves will stay in spec well beyond 20000kms. (My last interval was about 22000kms and they were fine. I'm not planning on looking at mine for another 30000kms, and if they still sound ok I might blow that out to 40000.) Not saying that's the "tick", but as said, a good place to start. Also check you haven't got that cam chain tensioner cranked too tight now.

[tone]

The first question is what are you doing "clicking" in an automatic cam chain tensioner ?

[wing]

The first question is what are you doing "clicking" in an automatic cam chain tensioner ?

I would love it to be fully automatic and reliable, but in reality spring tensioned cct's don't always click in as far as they should even with the new spring I put in. Just ask all the guys here who've replaced their automatic cct's with manual cct.

Did you have your valves "checked and adjusted" or just checked???

I wish I knew for certain, but I can't remember what they said back then nor did I understand what I know today about engines. Do I trust them to have even lifted the valve cover... well they're supposedly reputable.

[tone]

I would love it to be fully automatic and reliable, but in reality spring tensioned cct's don't always click in as far as they should even with the new spring I put in. Just ask all the guys here who've replaced their automatic cct's with manual cct.

I dont need to ask anyone, i'm well aware of the opinions regarding auto tensioners, my concern is that you just over tensioned yours, are now wearing out you cam chain guides, possably the cam sprockets & filling the oil with crap which is never good on an oil cooled motor

if theres a problem with camchain noise or top end noise you really need to whip the top off & have a proper look, check tappets & chain specific length for a start

BTW make my own manual tensioners if needed which is all fine & dandy if you actually know how to use one properly

[wing]

Time for a valve adjustment? Interval is something like 7500 miles, so that puts you at overdue.

Yeah, I was thinking the same, but at the same time I've never gone that far into my engine so the thought scares me.

[Kreylyn]

Yeah, I was thinking the same, but at the same time I've never gone that far into my engine so the thought scares me.

... and once you get past that fear, your going to look back after your done and say "Really! That's it? How simple was that!".


Krey

[ErrEs]

Do you hear the noise when revving in neutral?

[Purplehaze]

... and once you get past that fear, your going to look back after your done and say "Really! That's it? How simple was that!".

Krey

Ditto.

[wing]

Ok, I'll try get round to it this weekend. Need to get myself a torque wrench and some hex bits. I guess the worst part is just getting tot he valve cover.

[shpielers]

Exactly. And that's not even hard, just time consuming.

[Purplehaze]

Ok, I'll try get round to it this weekend. Need to get myself a torque wrench and some hex bits. I guess the worst part is just getting tot he valve cover.

Valve adjustment tutorial for Pre-98's should cross over fairly well. Suggest you give it a peek.

[wing]

Valve adjustment tutorial for Pre-98's should cross over fairly well. Suggest you give it a peek.

Yeah, I've read over your shim valve adjustment thread and a few others as well as that 4 part video someone did on youtube for a '91. I've seen/read it all before but never intended to do it.

Anyway, I popped it open tonight. Most of my exhaust valves were out of spec. Could only fit .006 in a few. The intake valves were mostly .004.

Spec is (exhaust .007 to .009) (intake .004 to .006).

I've adjusted all of them to the middle of the range .008 exhaust and .005 intake. After locking the nuts I even tested .009 and .006 to make sure there was a more drag. I read something about looser is better?

I still haven't got a torque wrench so I've hand tightened the valve cover bolts in prep for tomorrow. Need to find the torque specs for those bolts. It looks pretty cramped over the farthest left and right bolts on the exhaust side. Wondering if I can get a torque wrench and bit in there.