[SaltwaterStreetbike]

thank you arsenic just curious if I were to take this to A shop how much would it be?

[arsenic]

A lot, and it would not be done well even a little bit.

[SaltwaterStreetbike]

Damn... Ive just never really worked on mechanical parts before so Im nervous to crack this bitch open and start messing with it.

[92xjunker]

follow the carbs 102 and you'll be fine. if you get stumped, someone here will help you through it. once you do it the first time it will be much easier the next time. replace your fuel filter also check the air filter since your down there anyway, use OEM filters (air and fuel) they are disigned to flow correctly for the bike.

[DocCannabis]

Damn... Ive just never really worked on mechanical parts before so Im nervous to crack this bitch open and start messing with it.

Honestly if your thinking about a shop doing it for you, I don't think it would be much further out of your way to order a set of rebuilds from Arsenic and as he said it probably won't even be done correctly in the shop. The most they are going to probably do is exactly what you don't want to do, which is break them down far enough to spray some ports out and call it "good" with a gasket kit...

If your worried about the costs, the answer is Do It Yourself. Pretty much the definition of "cheap" when it comes to your own motorcycle work

My suggestion is do it yourself. In hindsight I could have done mine rather than getting some from Arsenic, but I wanted my bike to run, be road worthy and not leave me stranded or limping around coming up short on cylinders, which leads to fuel contaminating your oil, hydro locking cylinders and so on

Good luck in whatever course you choose! I have no complaints on the money spent for the carbs I bought! They went on, she started and I rode!

[Frozt]

Don't be scarred to do the work yourself. My best advice, grab some (heavier than plastic) bowls, label them as you put parts in them (carb #1 bottom bowl screws for example) and slowly take them apart. Also get yourself carb cleaner and brake cleaner(this stuff is great for removing junk but will destroy o-rings). When you see small holes, blast them with cleaners.

Gummed fuel stinks(literally) and looks like jello gone bad at its worst.

Varnished fuel, the hardest kind to remove, makes the metal look like its off color from the surrounding metal.

Rusty fuel reminds me of mud.

Gummed and varnished fuel passages are the best kinds of crap to clean. Rust anywhere in the carb usually means more work and more money being spent.

Just take your time. You can never be too organized.

Sent from my phone

[arsenic]

I'm pretty proud of myself. I got a lot done today:

I blasted all 3 of those sets today, they weren't that pretty earlier. All the other crap is done, blasting the bodies is the last step. By the way, that set on the left is a 98-06 600 set.

[Cgarcia]

I'm pretty proud of myself. I got a lot done today:

I blasted all 3 of those sets today, they weren't that pretty earlier. All the other crap is done, blasting the bodies is the last step. By the way, that set on the left is a 98-06 600 set.

What did you blast those with? Soda?

[arsenic]

glass bead

[Aimbot9000]

Ok bought A 02 katana 600 with 14k miles on it. The bike doesnt idle I have to pull clutch in pull break in and rev at same time while stopped to keep the bike from staling. From everything I read this is somthing to do with carbs needing to be synced. How much does that ussually cost we have A local Honda dealership thats all thats in the area I was thinking about taking it there want to know what Im looking at first. Also the fricken back turn signals are not on the bike or the liscense plate mount. I bought the bike for $2000. Btw I was considering buying A ninja or cbr 250 until I seen this forum just want to say thank you to this community for helping me make right choice.

I was worried too my first time working on my bike. I read everything I could here and also watched a bunch of how to videos on youtube to help me get an idea of what im getting into but eventually you have to bite the bullet and do it. take your time document every step with pics if you feel the need. also if you're not sure if you're putting it back together right look at the part diagram like this http://www.bikebandit.com/2002-suzuk...7705#sch241507

[Squisher]

I'm pretty proud of myself. I got a lot done today:

I blasted all 3 of those sets today, they weren't that pretty earlier. All the other crap is done, blasting the bodies is the last step. By the way, that set on the left is a 98-06 600 set.

So clean you could eat off 'em. Purdy.

When in doubt on carb work, give Arsenic money. Your carb problems become solved at that point.

[SaltwaterStreetbike]

I turned the idle switch on the left side of my bike all the way to one side let it sit to see if any difference was noticed then back to the other side to see if there was A difference and there was no difference at all. I did this after it was warmed up.

[arsenic]

Here's one of the sets I blasted yesterday. All done now:
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/190817655355?item=190817655355&viewitem=&vxp=mtr"]carburetors carbs Suzuki GSX750F Katana 750 89-97 - Dynojet[/ame]
The other early 600 set is for a member here and he won't have the funds for a few days. I'm in no rush to get that done. And the 98+ 600 set, I just ordered the float bowl gaskets last night. And the jetting is soaking in Berryman's ChemDip as we speak. To the OP, I haven't forgotten about you. They are stock jetting so they will be $395 + shipping on eBay. If you want them, I'll sell them directly to you for $395 with free shipping via insured USPS Priority mail. I'll have them done the day I get the float bowl gaskets.