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did you use the colortune under load, or just at idle?
I just used it to set my idle so it was at no load just idling. One of the things I want to do is put a O2 sensor fitting at my collector and put my wideband sensor in there as that way I can record A/F ratio while I am riding.
4 turns out on the Ivan's gives you a nominal 13.1:1 fuel-air ratio across most of the board (it'll go a little rich in a few spots, down to as low as 12.5:1 and sit around 14 - 14.2:0 at idle), which is ideal for torque without fouling plugs at idle.
Knocking it down to 3.5 turns will give you 13.4:1 across most of the RPM's and about 14.4 - 14.5:1 at idle. It will also increase your fuel mileage quite a bit compared to 4 turns out, but you will lose a minor degree of power & a little bit of that instant response that you get with 4 turns.
And, yes, I looked at these values on a dyno on three separate 98+ Kats (two Kat 600's and one 750) to come up with those numbers.
Unless you are running K&N/Emgo/Foamz/other aftermarket filters, anything between 3.5 and 4 turns should having you running ideally (fast & easy to start, good power, very good responsiveness). If this is the case, and you are stlll having problems obtaining a good, stable idle when warmed up, there is something else amiss in your carbs, or in the cables leading to them (stuck choke cable comes to mind).
As for the carb sync -- turn the idle up to 1850 RPM's to do it, then turn it back down afterwards.
4 turns out on the Ivan's gives you a nominal 13.1:1 fuel-air ratio across most of the board (it'll go a little rich in a few spots, down to as low as 12.5:1 and sit around 14 - 14.2:0 at idle), which is ideal for torque without fouling plugs at idle.
Knocking it down to 3.5 turns will give you 13.4:1 across most of the RPM's and about 14.4 - 14.5:1 at idle. It will also increase your fuel mileage quite a bit compared to 4 turns out, but you will lose a minor degree of power & a little bit of that instant response that you get with 4 turns.
And, yes, I looked at these values on a dyno on three separate 98+ Kats (two Kat 600's and one 750) to come up with those numbers.
Unless you are running K&N/Emgo/Foamz/other aftermarket filters, anything between 3.5 and 4 turns should having you running ideally (fast & easy to start, good power, very good responsiveness). If this is the case, and you are stlll having problems obtaining a good, stable idle when warmed up, there is something else amiss in your carbs, or in the cables leading to them (stuck choke cable comes to mind).
As for the carb sync -- turn the idle up to 1850 RPM's to do it, then turn it back down afterwards.
Right on about the idle. I usually turn it up around 1500rpm. It just slightly higher then normal, but will help smoothen out the idle across all cyls foreasier testing. calibrate the tool, set it, drop the idle back down and test again and make any fine asjustments at regular idle speed (1200rpm).
And make sure the engine is hot and on the centerstand or standing upright..
Right on about the idle. I usually turn it up around 1500rpm. It just slightly higher then normal, but will help smoothen out the idle across all cyls foreasier testing. calibrate the tool, set it, drop the idle back down and test again and make any fine asjustments at regular idle speed (1200rpm).
And make sure the engine is hot and on the centerstand or standing upright..
really?
so why does everyone say they are better if you can't syn the tool first?
I have never seen a pre-calibrated carb tool accurate at least not for long.
I've used merc sticks, vac guage banks at yamaha and motion pro sync tool here in my own shop all are extremely accurate. My personal favorite is the Motion pro.
I would love to put a carb tune on a 5 way manifold for calibrating carb tools just to see how accurate they really are.
The way the Morgan is built, there are only two things that could throw the calibration off: broken plastic (tubes, nozzle tips -- vac leak), or debris in the tube (interfering with the slug's motion). If it's broken, you get a replacement piece from them (they send 'em out free if you ask). If it's dirty, you disassemble and simply wash with dish detergent, then dry -- done.
Now, if you have doubts, you can simply swap lines between carbs -- easy way to check if something is amiss (does the other gauge move through the same range of motion?)...
really?
so why does everyone say they are better if you can't syn the tool first?
I have never seen a pre-calibrated carb tool accurate at least not for long.
I've used merc sticks, vac guage banks at yamaha and motion pro sync tool here in my own shop all are extremely accurate. My personal favorite is the Motion pro.
I would love to put a carb tune on a 5 way manifold for calibrating carb tools just to see how accurate they really are.
Have you read my comparison from a long time ago comparing the Motion Pro and the Morgan? I asked the same question.
I think the only sych tool that you can actually calibrate is the new Motion Pro tool.
I think by calibrate he might have meant check each stick against a the same vacuum source to ensure they read the same. Adjustment isn't possible but noting the delta is.
Considering that the exercise of synching has little to do with actual vacuum levels but consistency I would have to agree that making sure you have that consistency is very important..
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