Decided to Sync the carbs...

[Fox Fader]

... and found a little more that I need input on.

first, the sync, #2 was way out, but fixed 'er up.





Now, this was not plugged in, what's it for?


What are these two threaded holes for? Is the Kat frame used on another bike? This is the area where the front of the tank rests.




She's ugly with no clothes on.

[arsenic]

Cali emissions crap it plugs into noting.

[Fox Fader]

thanks

[Black_peter]

Don't lie Arsenic..

Those lugs are for the NOS bottle and the plug is for the Turbo control..

Dude, what's up with that bike. Does it have more than 1.5 miles?

[FloridaKat]

I assume you did more than synch the carbs right?

You don't need to strip any fairings to synch the carbs, let alone remove the mirrors and windscreen.

Not sure about the extra holes under the front fuel tank support.

[arsenic]

Don't lie Arsenic..

Those lugs are for the NOS bottle and the plug is for the Turbo control.

yeah, sorry

[The CyberPoet]

Now, this was not plugged in, what's it for?

Although Arsenic was pretty much correct (it's for the California thermister controller that decides when to stop running the after-run fans), it does have a good use for the rest of us: it provides an ignition-sensitive hot wire to slave relays off of, one that you can hit with a simple male-spade terminal.
Caution: Do not use the negative off this plug -- it's not a clean negative (run your negative all the way back to the battery instead).

Oh, and the two bolt holes? PAIR Valve mounting, another California-specific pollution control device.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Fox Fader]

I assume you did more than synch the carbs right?

You don't need to strip any fairings to synch the carbs, let alone remove the mirrors and windscreen.

Not sure about the extra holes under the front fuel tank support.

Cleaning, inspection, painting the windscreen, grills on the fairings and maybe an oil change.


Thanks Cyberpoet.

[Kfreak]

... and found a little more that I need input on.

first, the sync, #2 was way out, but fixed 'er up.





Now, this was not plugged in, what's it for?


What are these two threaded holes for? Is the Kat frame used on another bike? This is the area where the front of the tank rests.




She's ugly with no clothes on.

What are the white things in line on the vacuum lines? Are they shut off valves? I'm making my vacuum set up like the one you have. Don't take this personally... you have a sick mind because your bike is too clean. Nice job.

[BarMatt80]

those white things are restricters. without them, needles would be everywhere without them. the carb tune just comes with a 4" piece of clear tubing that has a thread size hole in it, cut into 4 pieces and then place them I think within 10cm or so of the throttle bodies. So might want to check into getting maybe that little piece of tubing and check to see where it is best to place them.

[Kfreak]

I was under the assumption that vacuum on a motorcycle would pull on a gauge the same as vacuum on a car would. The needle bounces huh?

[BarMatt80]

i assume vac gauges for cars have the same thing. I know my autometer boost gauge i put in my old car has a very very very small hole where the hose attached to it, also the t that came with the gauge had small holes too.

the engine does not create vacuum like a vacuum cleaner, there are split seconds that there is no vacuum created, thus why the bouncing needle. Also it isn't constant either.

[The CyberPoet]

the engine does not create vacuum like a vacuum cleaner

+1

Each cylinder creates vacuum as the intake valve opens while the piston is moving downwards. When the piston starts moving upwards again, at least on the Kats, it does so before the intake valve closes, so it's shoving some air/fuel mix backwards into the carbs again (at least below about 6800 RPM -- after that the speed of the in-rushing air is fast enough to overcome the force of the piston rising). Once the intake valve closes, the vacuum level at the carb is based on the vacuum levels at the airbox (i.e. - the combined vacuum from all the cylinders being shared). Thus, the needles tend to bounce between a minimum value (shared vacuum) and a peak value (vacuum specific to that cylinder at the maximum speed of the piston in it's down-stroke).
If you're used to it, you can sync a set of carbs without the dampers simply by looking at the maximums and average ranges -- but it is far simpler to use a damped vacuum tube system that slows down the reactions (and thus the bouncing).

I was under the assumption that vacuum on a motorcycle would pull on a gauge the same as vacuum on a car would. The needle bounces huh?

Most cars share a common air intake tract virtually the whole way the cylinders (from the air uptake at the outside through the filter, all the way to the intake manifold, and only separate just before the individual cylinders). Add in much bigger displacements drawing the vacuum, and most places that you would/could measure vacuum on most cars are basically the averaged vacuum for the entire intake system.
There are exceptions to this, such as certain race-based engines (Alpha & MG come to mind) that use [or can use] webber side-draft carbs -- these systems are like bikes in that sense and their carbs need to be sync'd like bikes do.

KNOW THIS:
Even fuel-injected multi-cylinder bikes need to be sync'd. Few people do it, but it really does need to be done whenever the valves are adjusted, and failure-to-sync on an FI bike can make it run like a dog.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Fox Fader]

What are the white things in line on the vacuum lines? Are they shut off valves? I'm making my vacuum set up like the one you have. Don't take this personally... you have a sick mind because your bike is too clean. Nice job.

That'a not even close to clean, I cleaned everything under the skin after I did the syn.

Thanks CyberPoet for clearing up the question.

[LAsunbird86]

where does one go to get a carb syncher? buy/borrow from local auto parts store?

This bike needs some SERIOUS tlc, and im sure it needs it.