[Nero]

If you do, be prepared to shell out for some new cans. You can't undrill a hole and I'm sure caulk won't work....

No, but duct tape will.

Sheayeah!...OK, master of the obvious! Duck tape does everything. - Everybody knows that!

[GytRDunKat]

So, after some internal debate with this entire issue, I've decided against this particular mod. I'm also undecided as to weld removal mod. Initially I wanted more sound, but it doesn't seem like this is worth it, given the ramifications of the long term problems with the stock exhaust.

I've also come to the conclusion that if I remove the baffle/drill holes, it's no less than putting a new, more free flowing 4 to 1 exhaust system that would require jet's and k&n's (ok, insert my own logic here, it may not be the case), which I do not want to do at this time. I need a few more years under my belt before I make this bike (or any other) quicker or faster and I'm fine with that.

Chuckle as you will, but I really don't see the benefit at this time to make it more powerful than it is, because I will want to use it, and I have too many mouths to feed.

That being said, I tend to go <70 indicated on the staight roads regardless, and am having more fun learning to carve the corners.

Thank you all for your input.

On a side note, I'm not a big fan of putting duct tape on my exhaust either

[The CyberPoet]

I'm also undecided as to weld removal mod. Initially I wanted more sound, but it doesn't seem like this is worth it

The weld removal mod won't normally net you any change in tone/sound; it'll just free up some exhaust blockage that will allow the engine to climb RPM's a wee bit faster. It's sloppy manual welding practices at work...

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[tnvatdreamland]

Chuckle as you will, but I really don't see the benefit at this time to make it more powerful than it is, because I will want to use it, and I have too many mouths to feed.

Amen brotha!

[Micdalen]

Have always steered clear of drilling bike exhaust. As you change the exhaust restrictions you run into tuning problems. If you add aftermarket, usually entails rejetting and retuning. Start drilling you change the design and flow of the system.

Although poor mass production designs, they are engineered to work a specific way. Look into an aftermarket slip-on if you are looking for a notable sound increase.

[BIGKAT1100]

That's worked with some of the pre-1990 bikes that I have owned. When dealing with anything newer, I would not hesitate to just purchase aftermarket equipment. It may cost more to do it that way, in the long run you will be happier. Plus, the design of the machine will not be compromised.

[BIGKAT1100]

Just a quick addition. You mat be surpised at what you gain from an updated 4 into 1 and a 1 stage jet kit.

The beauty is these items do not have to be purchased at the same time. Get your exhaust first for the sound. Then get your jet kit to make it runs like it sounds.

And BOOM BABY, there you go. WOOO HOOO !!!

[fixer]

on my first Kat, i drilled a 3/8" hole in the end of each can, between the exhaust port and the collar around it.

a short time after that, i upgraded to a Supertrapp 4-1 and was much happier.

IIRC, the factory cans and header felt like they weere twice the weight of the aftermarket replacement.

AFAIK, there's no anti-rust coating INSIDE the stock cans, because its usually very difficult to coat the inside without doing the same treatment o the outside.

[GregS]

Modified stock can

The plus of opening up the stock can is:
Low cost - even if you buy a can off ebay as the sacrificial can you will pay maybe 20 bucks plus shipping. Usually people can hardly give away the stockers.

Heavier construction - you can dent one of the aluminum cans by accident with a helmet, boot or several other common items that could bump the exhaust. On the other hand you would be hard pressed to damage a stock can except in a crash.

Sound - not as obnoxious as many non street legal slip ons but a nice growl. And since it has a Suzuki name on it most law agencies would be unable to determine it was not stock.

Downside:
It's a lot of work to do it right.
It's heavier than a slip on by about 3 pounds. Although my 2003 can modified is lighter by 5 pounds than my stock 04 can.

The rust problem is not an issue unless you don't ride regularly. Any steel exhaust component will rust if the water is not evaporated often, this goes for the insides of many slip ons.

[md86]

IIRC, the factory cans and header felt like they weere twice the weight of the aftermarket replacement.

On a pre , yeah , it's WAY more than "twice" . Them things is HEAVY . But honestly .... I like how they look AND sound better than the full Yosh I took off .