[The CyberPoet]

I run the Maxxis on my Kat, and I always maintain 40psi, is this going to shorten my tire life. I have read that a lot of folks run 33 psi.

40 all around, or just 40 at the rear? And how much do you, the passenger (if there is one) and the load weigh?

I tend to run 34.5 to 35 psi front and 38 psi rear, slightly above the 34/36.5 stock recommendation by Metzeler for their Z-series (and quite a bit above the 33/36 Suzuki recommendation for the OEM tires); the difference can be attributed to my weight with gear. When I haul full saddle bags and a passenger, I up that even more. Most tires have an ideal rider weight in mind of 140 to 150lbs; as that number increases, you want to increase the pressure to offset the flattening of the tire's curvature (and thus offset extra heat generated by that deformation on each rotation of the tire) -- a general rule is to go up by 1/2 psi in the front and a full psi in the rear for each additional 75lbs of load weight above 150 (rounded to the closest number). Thus, if load is 205 with gear, 205 is closer to 225 (150 + 75) than to 150, up the front 1/2 psi, rear a full psi. Weigh in at 275 with gear & passenger? Up it more... Check with the tire manufacturer for a recommended pressure on your particular bike as the starting point -- Metzeler & Pirelli for example start the front at 34 psi instead of the 33 psi that the OEM Michelin Crapadams start at...

PS - At NO TIME should you ever be running over the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall (usually somewhere around 42 psi for most modern tires). This is the limit the tire manufacturer says is safe to avoid pressure-related failures -- not the idealized pressure it should be run at.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[WildKat]

Local dealers around here just charge the labor rate it takes to mount them, if u dont buy them from their shop..so thats kinda nice.

[trinc]

PS - At NO TIME should you ever be running the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall (usually somewhere around 42 psi for most modern tires). This is the limit the tire manufacturer says is safe to avoid pressure-related failures -- not the idealized pressure it should be run at.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

NOT TRUE CYBER ...

from dunlop tire co.
"CHECKING TIRE PRESSURES IS THE MOST IMPORTANT TIRE MAINTENANCE FUNCTION YOU CAN PERFORM.

For high-speed, fully loaded or dual-riding touring motorcycle applications, inflate front tires to maximum recommended by vehicle manufacturer for Dunlop fitment and rear tires to maximum load inflation pressure on sidewall. Rear touring tires must be inflated to a minimum of 36 psi for light to medium loads and 40 psi for dual riding and other loads. Never exceed maximum load indicated on tire sidewall or vehicle capacity load found in owner's manual. "


tire pressure IS VERY IMPORTANT ! look on the web for your tires, for your bike and get the correct pressure & check it every ride.

i also take into account the weather - the dry but cold roads i will drop the psi about .5 to keep the tires warm ( if i'm going to be railing )

tim

[The CyberPoet]

[quote="trinc"]

PS - At NO TIME should you ever be running OVER the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall (usually somewhere around 42 psi for most modern tires). This is the limit the tire manufacturer says is safe to avoid pressure-related failures -- not the idealized pressure it should be run at.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

Fingers running slower than brain missed a word (the word OVER). Still, for a typical one-up rider, 40 psi is too high.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[1BlueKat]

Ok, I see your point, I have been riding 2-up more than alone as of late, however, I weigh about 190 and I still maintain 40 psi. The sidewall states that 42psi is maximum pressure. There is no distortion or tire wear that is visible, and I have been maintaining this pressure since last summer when I purchased the bike. Sorry Nurider, I know you wanted to find about tire replacement.

[nurider]

Sorry Nurider, I know you wanted to find about tire replacement.

No big deal. I'll probably end up running into these issues at some point, so might as well read about it now.

[Crackshot]

Generally, tires are cheaper via mail-order, but you really need to shop around to find the best prices. americanmototire.com just shipped me out a pair of Metzeler Z6's (120/70 + 150/70) for $187 plus shipping... That was enough of a savings to justify buying them online by all means

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

Damnit. I just bought a pair of MEZ-6's for 280 from the local shop, plus 50 to install, balance, etc. > GRRR

[duff daddy]

i have a good rule of thumb, change tires with every oil change, then send tires to my addy, i need track tires, scratch that make that every other tank of gas :twisted

[The CyberPoet]

i have a good rule of thumb, change tires with every oil change, then send tires to my addy, i need track tires, scratch that make that every other tank of gas :twisted

I have a set of Z4's I'll sell you cheap... the front is in excellent condition; the rear is starting to be squared off in the center, but still servicable by all means. NOTE: Rear has one plug-style patch (installed Friday when I found the nail, right after I ordered the replacement tires). Awesome tires, and I went knee-down on them at the rally last year.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Mojoe]

I never get more than a season out of a tire. Actually, I go through 2 minimum, so any of the "date stamps" Cyber was referring to don't apply to me. My method is when the the rear get to the canvas, time to change...hehe. The front when it cups so bad that I can feel the front wheel wobble in a curve. But I would not recommend this. I have many years of riding under my belt and am not a stranger to a tire letting go.
As a newb, you should follow cyber's advice. He pretty much covered it.