[The CyberPoet]

I just remembered that I had posted this up somewhere around here, but couldn't find it, so here's a fresh link:
CyberPoet's "How to correctly use feeler gauges to check valve clearances (note: Katana tappet/nut-adjuster valves shown in the examples, but it can be applied to shim & bucket as well)".

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[The CyberPoet]

Steve already hit most of this, but I'll add a second view-point...

When doing the valve inspection/ adjustment did you have to take off the 1. side fairings?

Someone speedy & very knowledgible can do it with the side covers on, but it's a great way to get hyper-frustrated and to scratch/mar your fairings.

After you've had your fairings off a few times, you start learning tricks on how to get them on/off faster (for example, I usually remove all the front fairings as a single piece, never seperating them).

2. the cables going over the top of the valve cover?

Yes. On the 98+ at least, you have to remove the cables going to the carbs to get enough clearance to remove the valve cover.

Again, there is a trick: get yourself a set of Kelly Forceps (surgical hemostats) that are about 6" - 8" long, and you'll get the cable ends off the carbs and later back into the carbs really easily. Note that you will have to release the throttle cables at the other end first (at the throttle handgrip) in my experience. You can find them for a buck at fleamarkets or get them for under $5 shipped off ebay.
The type with a curve at the end work the best for this in my experience:


You'll also need to remove the coils (mark the wires or note the wire colors as to which lead goes where feeding into the coils).

And when you can't get the cover off, it's because there is one allen-headed bolt in the front of the cover, low down, right behind the oil cooler (I normally release the upper bolts for the cooler to get at it easier).

3. If the fairings are left on is there enough room to see the marks on the cams?

Not if the right fairing is in place. But after doing it a few times, you know where the cam lobes need to be by comparison to the tappets (so you don't have to see the end of the cams to figure it out)... But I wouldn't suggest you avoid removing the fairing, no matter how lazy you are

4. At reassemble time is there a gasket between the cover & the head & does it have to be replaced?

Yes, there are a collection of five gaskets (one for each spark plug hole, plus one for the outer edge of the valve cover itself. Figure you need to replace these about once every five years because like all rubber products, they lose the VOC's and start to become brittle or stiff.

5. It also looks like there might be some valve cover sealer?

Some people use valve cover sealant (RTV) on the valve cover gaskets, as well as on the timing signal generator cover gasket. I never do, because they came from the factory without it, and I've never had a leak... but I do replace the gaskets every 4 or 5 years...

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[nimblekat]

I was looking at the service manual and at one point it says turn the crank shaft clockwise using a 19mm wrench. Where is the bolt you use the wrench on to turn the crank shaft?

http://rtcdesign.com/gsx600f_manual/GSX600F.pdf

periodic maintenance - maint. & tune-up

[steves]

I was looking at the service manual and at one point it says turn the crank shaft clockwise using a 19mm wrench. Where is the bolt you use the wrench on to turn the crank shaft?

http://rtcdesign.com/gsx600f_manual/GSX600F.pdf

periodic maintenance - maint. & tune-up

Under the timing cover on the right side of the motor.

[squiggy]

I was looking at the service manual and at one point it says turn the crank shaft clockwise using a 19mm wrench. Where is the bolt you use the wrench on to turn the crank shaft?

http://rtcdesign.com/gsx600f_manual/GSX600F.pdf

periodic maintenance - maint. & tune-up

Under the timing cover on the right side of the motor.

Righto. If you look at the blue Bandit in Steve's picture, the cover is above the "n" in Bandit.

[DonShannon]

As you have the screw adjusters I see absolutely no reason not to do it. I can only imagine how painfully easy screw adjusters are

I just did mine... with shims. And of course given the mileage of my bike the numbers on the shims were worn to the point I couldn't identify most of them. I had a fun couple hours at the parts place with a set of feeler guages, an oiled up sheet of paper with chicken scratch all over it and another paper with small round bits of metal taped to it saying,
"Ok, I need one this much thicker than this one...."

[fixer]

As you have the screw adjusters I see absolutely no reason not to do it. I can only imagine how painfully easy screw adjusters are

I just did mine... with shims.

what Kats have shims? my '89 600 had screws. haven't popped the valve cover on either the old engine in, or the new engine for the '93 to see, yet.

screw adjusters eiliminate the need to swap shims, record the size currently installed, order the next size or two down to hae them on hand, etc. just need the right tool.

[The CyberPoet]

The 600's went from nut-adjusters to shims and then back to nut-adjusters in the pre-98 models. The 750's had nut-adjusters for both generations (pre-98, 98+ ).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[DonShannon]

My 95/600 has shims.

Would it be possible/feasible to switch to a 750 rocker/shaft assembly with screw adjusters?