Well I picked her up yesterday

[audiviruz]

New to me 98 Suzuki Katana 600. This is my first motorcycle. So I will be taking it slow. I have a few questions?

1. Just bought the mototrcycle, what should I do maintence wise? The seller told me that it had been service two month ago, tune up.

2. I would like it to be very safe, should I get new, Pads, rotors, brake lines and brake fluid? Then I'll be sure of all does things.

3. Anything I should look for on the bike, that could be worned out?

I will see if I can get into a MSF course before the end of this season. But If I don't it will be the first thing I do next spring.

[solidfish]

New to here myself. Just picked up a 2001 GSXF last night.

Will post some pics up soon

[Black_peter]

First off unless you have all the recipts for the work,
assume none of it has been done.
IMO:

Change the oil.
(simple job that allows you to "get to know your Kat")

Cleaning.
Remove all the fairings and wash the bike well.
(pour water on rather than spray keeps you from dousing stuff that ought not be doused) I've found a toilet brush gets those hard to reach spots..
This will also fall into the "get to know" area and
once the engine/ bike is really clean you will see any oil leaks etc. Getting into the nooks and crannies will also allow you to find loose /broken parts, rust or dodgy wiring repairs.

Clean/grease connections
A big job but:
By disconnecting each connector one at a time and
cleaning (if needed, green goo or whitish dust)
with a small knife or sand paper then using "bulb grease" or
di-lectric grease, you will head off potential issues, find trouble spots etc..

Brake fluid.
IMO the cheapest most over looked maintenance item.
Buy a bottle of Castrol LMA (do a search to see why)
and run 3/4 of the bottle through the front and
the last 1/4 through the rear. (search the "rolling stock" section for tips on bleeding/flushing the lines)
A bottle of fluid is about $4 and the brakes are IMO the most important part of a motorcycle..

Pads. You ought to be able to remove the pad cover
and see how much life is left.

Brake lines.
These should be replaced every 5 years..
IMO do it and get SS lines (again search for tips)
SS line are warrenteed for life and will last
many many years!
If you replace the lines rebuild the calipers!
(Look for tips/ how to on that from Cyber Poet and I soon)

Rotors.
Run your finger over the surface.
It should be smooth..

Additionally:
most likely the carbs are ready for cleaning.

But first!! get a manual!!
You will need it when it comes to:
Adjusting the valves
Cleaning carbs
Fixing wireing issues
Adjusting clutch.

And remember, we are always here for you.

[katana bob]

Re: Well I picked her up yesterday

New to me 98 Suzuki Katana 600. This is my first motorcycle. So I will be taking it slow. I have a few questions?

1. Just bought the mototrcycle, what should I do maintence wise? The seller told me that it had been service two month ago, tune up.

2. I would like it to be very safe, should I get new, Pads, rotors, brake lines and brake fluid? Then I'll be sure of all does things.

3. Anything I should look for on the bike, that could be worned out?

I will see if I can get into a MSF course before the end of this season. But If I don't it will be the first thing I do next spring.

1.get a service manual. an invaluable tool for maintenance as it is quite thorough. it will even list a maintenance schedule.
2. you can inspect the pads and rotors. rotors are expensive so I wouldn't replace them unless I had too. brake lines and fluid are overdue if they have not been changed.
3. inspect the chain and sprockets carefully. biggest wear item on the bike. how are the tires?

get into th msf asap. in most states you get an insurance discount for taking it and you get to waive the written and riding portion of the m/c endorsement test at the dmv. good luck and be safe!

[Black_peter]

I have to say audiviruz
it is refreshing to hear your questions from a newbie
instead of:
Whats the biggest tire I can put on?
How do I wheelie?
Why a helmet?
Etc.. etc..

[audiviruz]

I have to say audiviruz
it is refreshing to hear your questions from a newbie
instead of:
Whats the biggest tire I can put on?
How do I wheelie?
Why a helmet?
Etc.. etc..

I'm really looking for a good ride. I have no intentions on getting hurt or doing stupid things.

thanks

[tory]

check the gas tank for rust and make sure your petcock is in the on position... which is off when the bike is off.

[DreKat]

you can always go to a shop and get them to inspect the bike for you, where i live we have to get our cars and bikes inspected every year. Change the oil and filter.

Congrats and be careful out there.

PS you might want to consider filling in where you are from and Ebay ID it just makes it easier for us to help you out.

[The CyberPoet]

IMHO:

Find out what services were done to it by the previous owner and the shop you bought it from (you might also want to call any other Suzuki shops in the previous owner's area to see if they have any service records on it). It might save you work.

I wouldn't bother changing pads/rotors unless there is some reason to -- if they are in good shape, don't spend the $$ on this, just swap lines, fluid and (critical IMHO) caliper piston seals. I'm with Black_Peter (BP) on use of Castrol GT LMA brake fluid as the best choice available. I sell one-way bleeder valves (SpeedBleeders) that can make bleeding brakes a much simpler effort... $27 for all the bleeders on your bike.

Black_Peter covered a lot of the basics, but he missed a few:

If you have the owners manual, read it cover to cover. If you don't have one, PM me. Downloading the service manual is also wise/good, but it is far more critical that you read the owner's manual -- it can help keep you alive by teaching you some very rudimentary basics.

I don't know how many miles are on it, but if you can't find evidence of a valve adjustment service having been done in the last 5k miles, either search on here for how to do one yourself (time-consuming, will require some tools and a bit of mechanical knowledge but not brain surgery), or take it to a dealer and ask for the 15k service (will will cover everything mechanically -- the valve adjustment, oil change, safety inspection, retorquing a number of bolts, cleaning/lubing the chain, etc -- runs about $310 - $320 at most shops). Add in an air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter and the engine should be good-to-go unless it is having problems (such as clutch wear).

Inspect the tires closely and find the date imprint. Generally, all rubber parts on the bike are designed to be replaced every 4 to 5 years, and the most crucial of those are the brake hoses (which BP mentioned), the tires and the fuel lines. All tires have a date code (3 or 4 digit) stamped into the rubber of their sidewalls that indicate the week-of-the-year and either year-of-the-decade (for 3-digit codes) or year-of-the-centry (for 4 digit codes) of manufacture -- if the tires are 5 years old, if they have any cracks in the rubber, if the tread surfaces aren't evenly worn, or if the carcasses have any discoloration (purple/blue), replace them ASAP. My recommended tire replacement for that bike (backed by many others here -- again search for confirmation) are Metzeler Z6 Roadtechs in a 120/70ZR17 front and a 150/70ZR17 rear.

As BP mentioned, cleaning & lubing the electrical contacts is extremely wise -- it will save you many headaches in the years to come. Start with a big can of electrical cleaner spray (radio shack or any hardware store), a 6 oz tube of dielectric grease, and a toothbrush. Open a connector, spray it out, use the toothbrush if necessary, spray again, shake dry. Examine -- any white powder or green corrosion and that will have to be removed (emory cloth, metal pick, or even a toothpick can work), then slather with as much dielectric grease as you can pack into the fitting before reassembly. If you find lots of powder/corrosion, I recommend using a specific dielectric grease called NoLox, which contains zinc particles suspended in it -- the zinc will cut away surface corrosion/build-up each time the plug mates/unmates -- but this is more of a patch than preventative (the whole process is hopefull preventative).

Oils: not all oils are the same and not all oils on the market are compatible with your bike. Use this guide to help you select:


Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Black_peter]

Wow..
I only:

missed a few:

I mentioned getting the manual..
But Cyber is right.. It's dry reading but the pictures are nice.
It is also good to get an idea of how the book is laid out.
What is connected to what, so you don't do one job then
have to redo it for another job..
Don't get over whelmed with these tasks..
It's not that bad..

[rwcreigh]

First off unless you have all the recipts for the work,
assume none of it has been done.
IMO:

Change the oil.
(simple job that allows you to "get to know your Kat")

Cleaning.
Remove all the fairings and wash the bike well.
(pour water on rather than spray keeps you from dousing stuff that ought not be doused) I've found a toilet brush gets those hard to reach spots..
This will also fall into the "get to know" area and
once the engine/ bike is really clean you will see any oil leaks etc. Getting into the nooks and crannies will also allow you to find loose /broken parts, rust or dodgy wiring repairs.

Clean/grease connections
A big job but:
By disconnecting each connector one at a time and
cleaning (if needed, green goo or whitish dust)
with a small knife or sand paper then using "bulb grease" or
di-lectric grease, you will head off potential issues, find trouble spots etc..

Brake fluid.
IMO the cheapest most over looked maintenance item.
Buy a bottle of Castrol LMA (do a search to see why)
and run 3/4 of the bottle through the front and
the last 1/4 through the rear. (search the "rolling stock" section for tips on bleeding/flushing the lines)
A bottle of fluid is about $4 and the brakes are IMO the most important part of a motorcycle..

Pads. You ought to be able to remove the pad cover
and see how much life is left.

Brake lines.
These should be replaced every 5 years..
IMO do it and get SS lines (again search for tips)
SS line are warrenteed for life and will last
many many years!
If you replace the lines rebuild the calipers!
(Look for tips/ how to on that from Cyber Poet and I soon)

Rotors.
Run your finger over the surface.
It should be smooth..

Additionally:
most likely the carbs are ready for cleaning.

But first!! get a manual!!
You will need it when it comes to:
Adjusting the valves
Cleaning carbs
Fixing wireing issues
Adjusting clutch.

And remember, we are always here for you.

+1111 good points.hey peter how do i do a wheelieLOL

[Black_peter]

+1111 good points.hey peter how do i do a wheelieLOL

Easy..
Buy a 'Busa..
But you have to be wearing shorts, tank top and ball cap..

[audiviruz]

Thanks alot everyone

I will take the advice to heart. I have already read the owners manual completly. I order the Service Manual, it will be here next week. I also order the brake lines (stainless steel) and the braked fluid Castrol Gt LMA.

I'm going to change the oil and filter today, and inspect the air filter. Clean out the electrical connections and add dielectric grease.

I'm trying to get into a MSF this weekend but not sure if it's going to happen, I'm waiting to see if they can fit one more. If not then next weekend.

Thanks

[solidfish]

Just curious but if I knew a somebody who accidentally dropped their bike on the first day, but it was gently dropped (this somebody thought the kickstand was fully down) and then lifted the bike back up, what things need to be checked to make sure there are no damages?

Not refering to scratch damages but motor / fluid / chains / etc? The bike started fine and ran fine afterwards.

[The CyberPoet]

Not refering to scratch damages but motor / fluid / chains / etc? The bike started fine and ran fine afterwards.

If the bike ran fine afterwards, there are no oil-leaks, and the oil level hasn't gone UP, all is good except for the scratches.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet