My 1st carb rebuild, so ... ?

[katanarider]

Warm weather is upon us so the rebuild starts today.
I've got the carbs mostly apart but I can't remove the float needle assembly/screened housing tube from the body. I'm afraid if I pinch it too hard with the pliers I'm going to bend the brass. I know some of you are thinking I shouldn't care if I damage it and that I should replace it. However the bike only has 15,000 original miles, so they should still be good. I mean my Kat 600 has 50,000 miles now with the stock needles and every thing. Any way, any pointers on how to get these out ?
Next, should I remove the emulsion tube and that grey plastic housing that the Diaphragm slides on when I chem dip ? Apparently that plastic slide housing thing is not available according to the parts fiche I'm looking at. I don't want the chem dip to damage it and I'd like to get the bodies as clean as possible.
Third, the spring loaded choke circuit thing. Its a hex shaped nut, but my thin wall socket is too thick to get a grab on it and a wrench will not fit either as the body prevents removal. How the hell did you get that thing off shpielers ? A super thin wall socket or some thing ?

http://i58.tinypic.com/69hjxx.jpg

EDIT: Oh yeah, for those who don't know...a automatic punch works like a blessed charm to remove those float pins...Thanks Locomotion

[4wred]

Needle seat removal-Try some WD 40 let soak for a little,wiggle back and forth to get the fluid down the bore it is in.When removing wiggle while pulling up and try to spin it a little.I had the same problem,I think the o ring gets stuck to the aluminum.

[shpielers]

1 - I didn't really have an issue removing the screens off the float assemblies, so..dunno? I used a pair of small needle nose pliers to grip them and just gently wiggled them back and forth. It might be possible that fuel dried up and left varnish behind that is kind of gluing things together, so the wd40 suggestion is definitely sounds worth a shot.

2 - Yes, remove them. Both. The emulsion tube would probably benefit from a good soak, and that's the only way you'll be able to inspect it and make sure it is still perfectly round. (If oval, replacement needed). As far as the slides, they dont come out super easy because there is an oring on them at the base. Which is exactly why you want to pull them - chemdip + oring = no more oring.

3 - For the choke thingo...yeah, that was a PITA. regular socket, thin walled socket...too tight for most things...
Not that I'd exactly suggest it because you might damage the nut, but here's what worked for me: thin needle nose pliers, and a lot of patience. Its entirely possible to round off the nut since it's..rubber? plastic? (either way, its soft) but teeny bit by teeny bit I was able to get them out.

[katanarider]

1 - I didn't really have an issue removing the screens off the float assemblies, so..dunno? I used a pair of small needle nose pliers to grip them and just gently wiggled them back and forth. It might be possible that fuel dried up and left varnish behind that is kind of gluing things together, so the wd40 suggestion is definitely sounds worth a shot.

2 - Yes, remove them. Both. The emulsion tube would probably benefit from a good soak, and that's the only way you'll be able to inspect it and make sure it is still perfectly round. (If oval, replacement needed). As far as the slides, they dont come out super easy because there is an oring on them at the base. Which is exactly why you want to pull them - chemdip + oring = no more oring.

3 - For the choke thingo...yeah, that was a PITA. regular socket, thin walled socket...too tight for most things...
Not that I'd exactly suggest it because you might damage the nut, but here's what worked for me: thin needle nose pliers, and a lot of patience. Its entirely possible to round off the nut since it's..rubber? plastic? (either way, its soft) but teeny bit by teeny bit I was able to get them out.

1) I went to Harbor Freight today and got some small picks. I'm going to pick at the Float Needle Seat O'Ring tomorrow and spray WD-40 in there. Its the brass seat I'm trying to get out at this point.
2) The Emulsion tube should be round since its a low mileage bike.
But, what your saying is pull the brass from the plastic slide tube ?
I guess the Brass Emulsion Tube part in the Plastic Slide is all one piece, so when I remove the slide the Emulsion Tube part will come out with it. Then your saying there is a O'Ring some where in the mix. Thanks for the heads up on that. I',m going to need to find those O'Rings before I tear things apart then. Stay in touch in case I need help finding them, PLEASE...lol
3) As it turns out, I finally found a super thin wall socket to clear the aluminum carb body at the parts store. However, a 13mm is too small and a 14mm is too big. Therefore it must be a 13.5mm. Go figure I'll be hunting that down today.

[4wred]

[QUOTE=katanarider;2364860]1) I wenHarbor Freight today and got some small picks. I'm going to pick at the Float Needle Seat O'Ring tomorrow and spray WD-40 in there. Its the brass seat I'm trying to get out at this point.
2) The Emulsion tube should be round since its a low mileage bike.
But, what your saying is pull the brass from the plastic slide tube ?
I guess the Brass Emulsion Tube part in the Plastic Slide is all one piece, so when I remove the slide the Emulsion Tube part will come out with it.


With the carbs upside down(jets facing you)when you unscrew the main jet from the emulsion tube you will see the bottom of the emulsion tube.Push the emulsion tube up into the carb throat,take note of the position they are installed they have a notch(key)that helps align them properly and also helps keep them from spinning when you tighten the main jet back in.You may have to tap them out to get them started.Don't over tighten them when reinstalling the main,they can spin in the plastic and face the wrong way in the carb throat(don't ask how I know)
Don't assume the hole in the tube is round,15,000 miles is enough to oval them out from the research I've done.It only takes a little ovaled out to make your bike run rich.My bike ran very rich till I replaced those tubes I thought they looked round till I inspected them under a magnifying lens.Do a search for this and you'll find pictures of out of round tubes(needle jets).

[katanarider]

Do I really need to remove the brass emulsion tubes from that plastic housing ?
I mean, I don't want to risk it with the old brittle plastic slides. Can't I just spray those and dip the bodies ?
As for the slides, I haven't seen any O'Rings that are part of the slides while looking at the parts fiche. As a matter of fact, the slides aren't even in the parts fiche. I'm just 2 screws away from taking these slides out, but until I find those O'Rings/Gaskets the shpielers is talking about I'm at a stand still.
With some help from WD-40 Rust Release Penetrant I was able to remove the Needle Seats. Wow man, that stuff is awesome !
Also, I was able to get the choke circuit valve thing out with needle nose pliers. I never did find a 13.5mm socket so didn't have a choice in the matter. They weren't that tight after all any way.

EDIT: Wait a minute, am I using the correct terminology ? Is the Main Jet and the Emulsion Tube the same thing ? I was under the impression they are, but apparently (according to gixxer.com) the Emulsion Tube can also be the brass tube out side of the plastic housing and hangs into the bowl all by it self...see post #12 I know those are BST36 but still. I don't know... what is that one brass tube called then ?
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/15-oil-...00-shocks.html

[shpielers]

Brass tube in post 12 will come out, plastic should be fine with it. It's harder to pull the slides out. That oring I mentioned is what keeps the slides from just falling out once those 2 torx screws are removed. You have to remove the slides to see the oring.

[katanarider]

I can't find those O'Rings any where ! I've got about 8 tabs open in my browser trying to find a part number. Thats the only reason they aren't soaking right now. Until I find those I'm at a stand still.

[shpielers]

The rebuild kits I bought included them. Think they were k&L kits, know they were from Georgefixs.com

[katanarider]

I popped one out last night for the heck of it.
Did you notice on yours that the air jet comes to a stop at the Emulsion Tube ? In other words mine doesn't have a hole in the brass at the inlet. Just wondering if I have the correct tubes. EDIT: The groove is in the locked position and looks to be seated correctly.

[katanarider]

I finally took the Emulsion Tube out. I guess that the Air Jet doesn't inject directly in to the brass tube by the looks of things. Its as if there is a very small gap between the plastic tube and the brass tube that allows air inside the tiny pin holes...some one correct me if I'm wrong.
Also, I see now that the Emulsion tube really does need to be taken out to clean those passages or the entire process could be a waste of time. As for this being the correct tube for carb #1, it looks to read 537 at the top and P-2 at the bottom with the little Mikuni double square. I hope thats right.

[4wred]

P2 is the correct tube,non California. I've always called them emulsion tubes but the parts fiche calls them jet needle They are expensive too
The plastic that the diaphragm slides move up and down in aren't even listed as a separate part to purchase in the fiche.I didn't take them out when I cleaned my carbs,didn't have the proper bit to fit them.I have security bits but not that particular one.

[katanarider]

Did you Chem Dip your Slide Guides ?
Interesting fact, according to Berryman, Chem Dip is layered. There is a sealant layer that keeps the lower cleaning chemical from evaporating and product/bar code 0996 can be used in a Sonic Cleaner because its water based. https://www.berrymanproducts.com/sol...sonic-cleaner/
I've had o-rings soaking in product 0996 top layer for about a week now without melting them. I guess I'll drop them to the bottom of the bucket this week.
Also, I'm wondering how to take the Butterflies out without striping the screws. They seem like they may have loctite on them. Maybe I'll just leave them alone and take a chance they won't leak vacuum.

[4wred]

I know i'm gonna get flamed but I didn't do a complete teardown and soak.Eventually I will but I did chase every circuit I could with compressed air and guitar string to verify they were open.The carbs weren't real dirty.I had diaphragm's that had pinholes in them and out of round emulsion tubes.The p.o.
put on a 4 to 1 exhaust on the bike without re jetting. After cleaning the carbs,re jetting,replacing bad diaphragms,shimming the stock needles it runs pretty good,I'm satisfied with the way it's running for now.Next time I have the carbs off I will do a proper breakdown and soak.I prefer to spend more time riding than wrenching!Fastest bike I've ever owned,I know there are faster ones
out there but fast enough for me.

[katanarider]

I tried the fishing wire/guitar string method, but it seems lack luster in my opinion. There are 3 pin holes under the butterfly in which I couldn't figure out how to feed the wire. I was only to get about 4mm inside those holes (if that) from the engine side opening. That being said, I have not a clue where they exit. Also, soaking in the water based Berrymans Chem Dip only softens the old Ethanol powder, it doesn't remove it. I'm looking at Sonic Cleaners at this point.
Thanks for your replies.