Clutch Dragging

[retcol]

My clutch is dragging a little, just started doing this. When I'm stopped in gear with the clutch lever pulled in, I can feel the clutch dragging and the slightest nudging forward. Since there is no clutch adjustment on our hydraulic clutches, does this mean I'm due a new clutch? I bled the fluid, but that didn't help. My clutch engages almost immediately when I release the lever from pulled back, about a quarter to half inch of lever movement will engage the clutch. Any suggestions on what i can do other than replace the clutch?

[4wred]

Sounds like it's not disengaging all the way,bad slave??
I'm having similar issues with mine,haven't got to it yet too busy trying to get it running rite! Mine also clanks in gear some.Gotta get it sorted soon.

[92xjunker]

Seems to an issue with a lot of big kats

[shpielers]

Unfortunately Junker is right, 1100s seem prone to it, no one has figured out why yet. Guys with rebuilt slave and master cylinders, SS lines, new itch springs, new synthetic fluid, and clutch basket grooves files out still have dragging issues. If it didn't used to drag, but does now, rebuilding the master and slave cylinder is ways a good place to start. If your lines are really old, so is replacing them. Let us know if you figure anything out, will give those in the "always dragging" crowd somewhere to focus on.

[katanarider]

Did the issue pop up out of no where, like while out riding or after being parked ?
Just wondering because mine started slipping on the first ride of the season, like with in 2-3 miles. I parked the bike late Nov-2014 with awesome clutch grab, enough that I did a small burn out a week or 2 before parking. Then like I said, out of no where on the first warm day in March 2015, it started slipping while accelerating from 35mph-45mph. Analyze that ! I'm gonna clean my master cylinder ports. I've read they can clog and prevent release...etc.
However, I found this cool tech tip on bleeding hydro clutches...check it out

http://www.dirt-bike-secrets.com/hydraulic-clutch.html

[92xjunker]

Unfortunately Junker is right, 1100s seem prone to it, no one has figured out why yet. Guys with rebuilt slave and master cylinders, SS lines, new itch springs, new synthetic fluid, and clutch basket grooves files out still have dragging issues. If it didn't used to drag, but does now, rebuilding the master and slave cylinder is ways a good place to start. If your lines are really old, so is replacing them. Let us know if you figure anything out, will give those in the "always dragging" crowd somewhere to focus on.

+1 and sticky it for future and current 1100 owners

[katanarider]

If you decide to rebuild the master cylinder or slave, my suggestion is DON'T do it. As you can tell the problem still exist for those who do.
I think trying some thing different may be a good choice. I've seen that another member used a Bandit 1200 front sprocket cover to convert to electric speedometer. That means the slave, cover and all should swap with out trouble. I didn't see him mention any mods to make it fit, so ??? If some one with more knowledge would chime in that would be cool. Of course, using the B-12 master cylinder would be a good idea as well, I think.

[retcol]

Thanks for the great instruction on bleeding the clutch katanarider, it was very informative. I replaced the DOT4 fluid in all my master cylinders as part of my restoration process. The brakes bled out fine with good lever and pedal, but I can't get the clutch to do the same. I've gone through a small can of DOT4 bleeding the clutch with no air bubbles seen and it still drags some, not as bad, but still drags. Could my clutch springs need replacing?

[92xjunker]

I wonder if some one knows the throw of the clutch rod, that would eliminate the master/ slave. Bad springs would cause slipping first but, you can measure free length and compare to specs.

[4wred]

Thanks for the great instruction on bleeding the clutch katanarider, it was very informative. I replaced the DOT4 fluid in all my master cylinders as part of my restoration process. The brakes bled out fine with good lever and pedal, but I can't get the clutch to do the same. I've gone through a small can of DOT4 bleeding the clutch with no air bubbles seen and it still drags some, not as bad, but still drags. Could my clutch springs need replacing?

I've read some other threads on this issue and it seems possible that some of the friction plates may "hang up" stick together,I guess that could cause the clanking into gear problem i'm having assuming the slave is pushing the rod in all the way.

[Wild-Bill]

When you bleed the clutch line be sure you're getting all the air out at the MC, too. I've found that it helps considerably to crack the banjo bolt open a little and work the air out there. It seems like a bubble likes to hang up right there.