[shpielers]

Update, finally!
It's looking like Christmas with all the boxes around right now. Just arrived:
Wheels for the 17" swap, calipers for up front compatible with 17", rear brake torque arm to mod to accept the incoming new rear caliper, petcock rebuild kit, and chain.

En route: rear blinkers (OEM!), sprockets (coming from GSFXJim), bearings (also from Jim), rear caliper and rotor, carb rebuild kits, gaskets, air filter.

Already have: POR15 for the tank, 5 degree advancer, fork rebuild goodies from racetech.

Still need to order: tires

I just had to move out of the house I was living in for the last 2+ years, and will no longer have reliable garage access. I'm house sitting for my parents for 2 weeks and will be using the crap out of their garage while I have the opportunity to. I won't finish everything on the bike, but I want to convert to 17", get the tank/carbs squared away, and finish working on the front forks. (Left one done 3 months ago, haven't been able to get to the right one). I figure if I can get that far, I can actually ride her and not have to haul her around in the back of my truck when I can go use my parents garage now and again to work on smaller projects like putting in a headlight relay and heated grips.
I'm not gonna sleep much the next couple weeks, but it'll be worth it! And I'll take lots of pics and post up details, but they won't happen until after those 2 weeks are up. I'll do very quick 20 word updates as I knock out each bit, but not much more than that until I'm out of the garage.
Ready, set, GOOOOOO!!!

EDIT: starting to add pics in. Xmas!!
(sorry about pic orientation, pics were on the phone, then dumped onto a mac, then uploaded, and now i'm linking on my PC. something got screwy somewhere along the way)

[Locomotion]

Good luck with your build, no shims in these, if you go the 17in wheel route you won't regret it, stock chain & sprox ok

[shpielers]

Thanks!
I actually decided on a 50t rear sprocket. Looking at gearingcommander.com, that puts me within .3% of what stock RPMs would be. She's going to have far more grunt than my 600, so didn't want to go adding more low end - OEM sprocket would have been +~3%. Not much different, but she'll see a lot if highway miles, so doesn't hurt. Also converting the 532 to 530. Easier to find a good chain that won't break the bank.

[branumhawk]

Great find. Will be looking forward to progress pics.

[Locomotion]

I also went the 530 route but kept the 52 rear sprocket but upped the front from 15 to 16

[shpielers]

Basically the same thing then, just achieving it a slightly different way

Carb rebuild kits and rear rotor came in today. Tomorrow morning before work I load the bike in the truck and bring it to my parents place. Then the fun beings

[Engelskmannen]

[shpielers]

Bike and tools transferred from storage to garage. Go figure sitting for 6 weeks without getting touched, she didn't want to run. Between the old gas, (has stabil in it, but still, it's ~6 months old) lots of sitting lately, a rusty tank, and me being an idiot and forgetting to drain the carb bowls before putting her in the storage unit, she's start, but didn't want to stay running. Methinks those carb kits are going to be coming in handy! Bit of a bitch to load a bike bike into a truck when it's not running...

Since there's no 1100 carb write up, anyone have any tips? They're definitely getting split and dipped. Anything to watch out for? Parts I'll need that aren't in the rebuild kits, etc?

Tonight's plan of action is pull the tank, start getting it prepped for POR15 and pulling/starting to disassemble the carbs. Hoping to get them all apart and the 1st set soaking. For now...off to work I go...

[shpielers]

Didn't get home from work till midnight...ug...
Got the tank and carbs pulled off but thats it. Getting that throttle cable back on is going to be fun...soaked all the carb screws with WD40, hoping that'll make removing them a little easier. I've got my dremel on standby just in case.

Man, this bike is dirty! I don't think it's been cleaned in the 22 years it's been alive. Wish I had the time to do a frame off resto.
Brewing some coffee and then it's carb time.

tank off:








carbs off: and yes, that is the kitchen table.
[IMG][/IMG]

[shpielers]

Finally have the 1st carb body soaking. Took me a while, as pulling everything off the rails took some doing. I was able to pull all the screws easily except for 1. Dremel required:

The above pic shows what's left of the screw. After the head stripped, I carved a slot into it with the dremel. Wouldn't budge. Until the head sheared off. Which made life somewhat easier. Pulled the rail, grabbed the screw body with some vice grips, and out she came.

For any of the keen eyed amongst you, yes, the A/F screw holder is chipped. No, it does not effect anything, it's purely cosmetic. The chip ends before the threads start. Although I was worried for a sec.

Damn, these are just as dirty as the rest of the bike. Inside and out.






For anyone wanting to replace the JIS phillips screws with allen capped screws, measurements are:
16 M4x.7-8mm (for the carb bowls)
16 M4x.7 - 10mm (for the diaphragm caps)
14 M5x.8-10mm (for the carb rails)
There's 2 more screws for the rails that are the same M5 size (one of which was the PITA that is in the pic above), they do not have a phillips button head though, they have a flat head that angles down towards the treads (cant remember what type that's called)

Ordered new screws (and orings for the A/F screws. Which aren't included in the rebuild kit...) from Arsenic. Thanks man!



Did run into my first problem: my carb rebuild kits arent correct. Same thing as happened to another member on here, the floats aren't correct. The ones in the carbs are stamped 2.8 and the ones in the kit are 2.0. The kit ones are also have a visibly smaller hole (non spring side). (http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=132760&page=6 post 51)
So looks like I'm calling the place I got them from tomorrow 1st thing.

Anyone replace theirs and able to get the correct size? I spent a fair amount of time looking around at kits, and only came across the same K&L kit over and over, so not sure what to do about that if the seller can't help.

In the meantime, time to start pulling the bits off the tank and start cleaning it.

EDIT: was advised that since the float needle sits at the same height on both the original and kit, I shouldnt have a problem. So hoping that's right...

[shpielers]

1st carb body soaking






And this is why just peeking in and wiping the bowls clean doesn't do shit. The bowls all looked similar. The rest of the internals however, looked cleanish. Bike idled like crap though. somethingsomething pilot circuit somethingerother






























Getting out the pin that holds the float assembly in place out is a bitch. I thought it was glued in by varnish, so hit it with some carb cleaner, and let it sit. It was not. Turns out these pins are an interference fit. So they're in there really tightly. Only way to get them out is to carefully hit them with a hammer/punch. And they are 1 of the reasons Arsenic doesn't work on 1100 carbs. It'd be easy to get to vigorous and break off the attachment point. I've heard you can Alumiweld things back together should that happen, but I opted for slow and steady so as to avoid having to put that to test. Do NOT use pliers and try to pull it out by the head, you will crush/otherwise damage the head of the pin. Tapping it out takes a while, but it does work. Just be patient.










petcock disassembled and soaking

















I put carb #1 body, its jets/appropriate internals, and the petcock body into the chemdip, and let everything sit and soak ~24 hours.


Tank on to the acid stage of POR15. I'd recommend not doing this barefoot, this is a really strong acid. I'd suggest good nitrile gloves, eye protection, pants, and long sleeves. This is the only pic I snapped of the process, so it's not actually filled with acid, hence me not wearing shoes. I used Notten's write up as a general guide. (http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=132984) I didn't have great luck with the masking tape really sealing things off. Consequently, my tank now looks a bit worse for wear. Not like it was pretty to start with so I'm not too upset. Someday I might get around to paint...



rear 17" wheel bearings cleaned/regreased. Rinsing the acid out of the tank and leaving it to dry overnight. Then calling it a day.

[Locomotion]

Finish the tank off with a hair dryer you'd be surprised how much moisture hangs in the nooks and crannies

[shpielers]

Ran the dryer 20 mins on/20 off for 2 hours.

[shpielers]

Today - Mondays I don't work, so got a fair bit done: got the tank lined with the POR 15, 4 more days till curing done. Got carb body #2 disassembled and soaking. Pulled #1 from the chemdip and sprayed all passages with carb cleaner and compressed air, ran fishing line through the pilot circuit holes, and another spray session.




When you're getting the pilot circuit holes, they terminate here. If your fishing line isn't getting through to here, keep trying. Even after soaking all the bodies for 24 hours, I still had a hard time initially getting the fishing line through due to shit still clogging the circuit. The choke pickup (not pictured) was also a PITA. Glad I did that though, would have run like crap otherwise.








Pulled petcock from the dip and, rinsed it off and installed rebuild kit. Pulled the chain, rear wheel, swing arm, rear caliper, torque arm, and front sprocket. Cleaned the swing arm, got it regreased. Tomorrow before work hope to clean off the dogbones, shock mounting points (clevis?) and regrease them. After work, get them/the swing arm reinstalled, and pull carb body #2 from the dip and get it sprayed/rinsed. Probably won't get #3 disassembled and startin to soak, but one can hope...

[shpielers]

Got the swing arm/all associated hardware cleaned off and regreased as planned, kinda nice when that happens. Reinstall on for tonight.