[Engelskmannen]

At the risk of teaching you to suck eggs... remember to get the drive chain in there first

Colin.

[shpielers]

Ha, that would suck to forget. Doesn't matter though as a new chain w/ master link is getting fitted. Waiting for the sprockets to come in for that. Thanks though!
Swinger and all associated hardware reinstalled. Was kind of a bitch, I kept doing stupid stuff. IE dogbones in backwards, and not figuring that out until the knuckle and swing arm were attached...oops...never got to carb #2 so tomorrow morning I'll pull that out and spray/blow/rinse etc it. And either disassemble #3 and start it soaking or put the tank back together. I almost stepped on the fuel gauge (sender) 3 times tonight. Don't want to be breaking things via stupidity...

[shpielers]

Tank reassembled Wednesday morning before work. Put finished carbs back together.
Thursday morning, stripped down carb #3 and started it soaking. Mounted up the RF wheel and 750kat real caliper so I have an idea what kind of room I'll have to use.


Thursday night, stripped down carb #4 so I can just pop it in the dip tomorrow AM. Got in the bolt kit I ordered from Arsenic, high quality hex head screws instead of Phillips head screws.

[Engelskmannen]

Excited for you, keep it up

Colin

[shpielers]

Thanks mate!

Taking plenty of pics, will eventually get them added in.

[shpielers]

Not a lot done yesterday, long work day. Ug

Did register it, and ordered front tire. Leaving to get that mounted in ~20 minutes. Had more goodies arrive in the mail - new valve cover and spark plug well gaskets, Orings for the carb boots between the head/carbs, and the bushing required for the front wheel. Only parts left to come in are the sprockets and front wheel bearings.
After work today, putting that last carb back together and hoping to at least start adjusting the valves.

[shpielers]

Carbs reassembled, floats set at 14.6mm, A/F screws to 2.5 out, and sync adapters installed. The sync adapters btw aren't compatible with CA emmissions systems. On carb 4, the port on the bottom that runs to the charcoal canister is in the way. If you have all short adapters, you'll be ok but my SyncPro came with 2 long and 2 short ones. Good thing I'm already deleting the emmissions crap...

Goddamn, these things look pretty now.





Wanted to at least start adjusting valves tonight...not happening. I'll start with that tomorrow, which is a day off so I've got all day. While I'm at it, new plugs and air filter. I'm also going to do most of the fab work required tomorrow. Emmissions block off plates, torque arm, rear wheel spacer, trimming the bushing for the front wheel, and making the adapter for the speedo drive. Not looking forward to that last one...I might have to explore other attachments for my dremel other than what I currently have.



Random question - I'm fitting bandit 1200 calipers up front. Anyone know if there is any advantage to fitting a B12 master cylinder?

[shpielers]

Son of a B...
Glad I know how to read. The 5* advancer that came brand new in the box with the bike isn't going on. The bike is 7* from the factory, an additional 5 would put her at 12. Everything I've read says 9-11 is ok. So 12 is probably too high. In addition to other questions asked, anyone know if 12 will in fact be too high like I believe, and I should try finding a 3* instead?

[shpielers]

Valves adjusted, new plugs installed, new air filter fitted. Jesus H Christ, prior owner did you do any maintenance ever??
Plugs were all totally black. Points were eroded, gaps were all .8+. (Range is .6-.7...)


Ugly bugger


Air filter was a K&N. There was a thick layer of sludge in it. Oiled the filter too heavily, then never cleaned it is my guess. Replacing with OEM type.



Valves...sigh...cylinder 1 intake was just loose (.25mm), all others were tight. 2&1 exhaust... .04mm... Fucksticks. Guess who's going to rent a compression tester tomorrow... Worst case scenario this bike gets a B12 transplant.












Once valves were adjusted, fitted new main cover gasket, new breather gasket, new spark plug well gaskets, and new orings on the oil lines.
Also fit new Orings between the head and the carbs. Sorry for the crappy quality, I didn't realize they werent really in focus until the old ones were buried in the trash. You can still tell the 1st one is flattened out, whilst the 2nd is actually round.






Pulled the entire CA emissions system off.




Made block off plates.



I painted these afterwards with high temp header paint to prevent future rusting, hit it with the heat gun to cure the paint, cut gaskets, and installed them.



Started playing with spacing for the rear wheel.
As per Wild-Bill's write up, the collar needs to be removed from the original 1100 spacer (caliper side)












Picked up new fuel line/vaccum hoses and got the caliper bracket hole enlarged so the axle will fit.



Busy day.

[shpielers]

Dinner break.
Made the custom speedo adapter. (Again see Wild-Bill's write up for more detail)























Got the rear end spacing figured out, and figured something for the caliper/torque arm attachment.

too tight - nuts on the sprocket hit the swingarm.


better! 3mm, just needs a washer:


Other side:





The schematic posted by wild bill really helped with the speedo adapter. I'm basically copying him for spacers. However, for the caliper/torque arm, I'm doing something a little different. For me, it's easier/more practical than what he did. This is due to the differences in equipment available to us. He has access to welding, and I don't. I do however have access to cutters and grinders...
The original 1100 torque arm fits the bike. It puts the caliper in the correct spot. Only it doesn't fit the 750 caliper, it is about 3 mm too narrow. However, the 750 mounting point has some extra material on it. So...If that extra material is ground down, it should fit right?




You need 4mm of clearance. One side has ~2.5mmof extra material, the opposite side has about 0.75mm. Remove the extra, and file a teeny bit off the inside of the torque arm...





and here ya go. Fits up nicely, no welding required.



Next issue: the 1100 and 750 caliper are slightly different shapes/sizes, so doing this leaves the caliper too far outside, ~1/3". Simple solution, move the torque arm where it connects to the swingarm. Instead of the torque arm fitting snugly inside the swingarm mounting point, shift it over so that it's half inside and half outside. Throw in some washers as spacers, and you're good to go.
I'd eventually like to cut/bend/reweld the torque arm (similar to what Krey does for widening swingarms) so that the spacer isn't needed. I tried heating it and beating it with a hammer to bend it the the angle I need, but propane isn't hot enough to soften a piece of metal that thick. So, it works for now, but is only a temporary solution until I can get it done right.

After dinner: cut new fuel and vac lines for the carbs, and reinstall those, airbox and gas tank. Then attention turns to the front end. Fork rebuild, wheel bearings, checking caliper fitment...I've got options.

[shpielers]

Got the front bearings out. New ones are supposed to be hitting the mail today.
Methinks this wheel never really got any tlc, was nasty and the bearings are frozen. Can't look into spacing issues or caliper fitment until the new bearings are in and installed.

Removal: heard about using these expanding concrete bolts for easy knock out of bearings




Basically pop it in, tighten it down. As you tighten, you force the bolt down and the collar to expand, so it locks in place.



Flip the wheel over, and grab your favorite dowel/drift/whacamole



Position it on the bolt that's now locked in place



And go to town!
Not pictured, or at least not visible, the wheel needs to be up on blocks for this so that A) it's not resting on the rotors and damaging them, and 2)that concrete bold sticks out about 6". As you pound the bearing out, it needs room to move down another ~1".



Getting there!



Done with the 1st one! The spacer also came out.



Mother of god, there are Tijuana hookers specializing in Cleavland steamers that aren't that dirty.



Here in all it's glory. I'm guessing the wheel bearings had the original grease that was in the bearings at install, and then...nothing. For the rest of it's life. Seriously, this is in shit shape.

As far as using this method to knock out a bearing, it was my first time doing it. Meh...Not really any easier than the usual way, and the bolt was maybe $4 or $5. Think I'd rather save the cash and do it the normal way from now on, but hey, ya never know unless you try.



This is AFTER cleaning it up best as I was able. If you ever have a spacer or a bushing that looks like this, replace it. This is not an option.



There are actually ball bearings somewhere under all that crap. Frozen solid though.



"Cleaned" up. See? Told you they were there hiding.



Pounded out the other one quickly, and time for some measurements to make sure the new spacer will be all the right dimensions, and is cut to the correct length.













As you can see, the spacer from a rear wheel of a 600/750 Kat is pretty close in size. Needs a few mm trimmed off it, nothing the demel couldn't handle.

And here, mocked up, is the front wheel. No bearings installed yet, so I only had it up long enough to take a pic.




Carbs/airbox/tank installed. Had to trim the sync port adapters as they hit the frame and prevented carb installation. I used the adapters that came with my SyncPro, they sell other ones that are specifically intended for permanent installation that Locomotion used the other day. They're smaller and don't require modification.
Misplaced a tank vent line somewhere.

[Slammer46]

Amazing rebuild, but dude work work when do you sleep? Wish I had your energy.
And yes I cannot wait for the pictures

[shpielers]

What's this "sleep" you refer to? Lol

I basically have what I can now done. My parents get back from Europe tonight, so I loose garage access until they're out of town again in a few weeks anyways. Once I get in the sprockets and bearings, I can get more finished. Sprockets on = I can install the new chain. Bearings in = I can mount the front wheel and calipers. Once I verify that everything fits, I'm going to order rebuild kits for all brake calipers, and SS brake/clutch lines. And rebuild kits for the clutch MC and slave cylinder.
After that, time to fire her up, sync the carbs, and deal with whatever gremlins pop up. And at some point rebuild the right fork...
After that, it's mostly cosmetics and fun things. If I can find one, a 3* advancer, FP jet kit and shift kit (rather not have 2nd gear die), projectors in the headlights, rear shock off to Tmod when he's got his shop up and running, and at some point maybe paint.

[shpielers]

Said F it - ordered rebuild kits for all calipers and master cylinders. I went ahead and just got the entire piston/seal kit all around. The bandit calipers are off a 98 and the Kat 750 caliper is off a 95, so I'm assuming the worst. Rather have the pistons and not need them than need them and not have them when I have limited garage access. Also got the pins the brake pads slide on.
Wow bandit calipers are pricy for parts. Being 4 pot has something to do with it but still. ~$85 per for pistons/seals and ~$15 per pin.

Anyone know if G&J has templates for 1100 brake/clutch lines? I used them for my 600 and had a good experience, wouldn't mind using them again if I can.

[shpielers]

Ordered a clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit on my lunch break. Going to start uploading pics to my online album tonight, not sure how long that will take/when I'll start linking to them. Should be sometime in the next few days though.