[shpielers]

Last time I got a chance to work on on it I found out the adapter I made warped a bit. Flattened it out but didn't get a chance to reinstall and test yet. That's on the docket for tomorrow. I might have to remake the adapter out of something thicker so it won't warp again. I might try just bending the tabs further as you did though before remaking if it comes to that

[katanarider]

I think its too thin.
My tabs are contacting pretty darn good. Save yourself some trouble and bend those suckers ! We will just have to keep that hub clean when possible. I'm thinking hit the hub hole at the car wash with a pressure wash once in a while, or just spray some brake cleaner in there if needed.

[shpielers]

You can disassemble it and regrease it

Yeah, after thinking about it I'm more inclined to do as you suggest. I've seen a few others do it with no complaints of the extra bend failing.

Btw in your 17" thread I think you forgot to post a pic. First one where you say you're bending the tabs 2-3mm (and yes this is after your recent edit)

[katanarider]

I heard a little crack when I bent mine, but it may have been the plastic. ??? Take a propane torch and hit the metal with the tip for a few seconds then bend it. Keep a glass of water next to you incase you catch the plastic a fire...lol

[shpielers]

Anneal it basically? Not a bad idea. I was thinking dremel tiny cuts then bend it. But that also sounds not bad

[katanarider]

I think Annealing is the cooling process. I don't think you'll want it to cool slowly because it may warp the plastic. I would just dump water on it. I don't think it will make that much of a difference for this specific purpose. Now my kickstand I just had chopped and welded, it was annealed slowly to strengthen it. You basically want to loosen the atoms in the metal to make it bend better...then H2O with the quickness.

EDIT: If it makes you feel better you can quench it in old motor oil to add carbon.

[shpielers]

FUk€!!!

Grrrrrrrr

Front wheel bearing is shot. Disassembled and greased up the speedo sensor last time I got to work on the bike. Today cleaned and greased up the linkage/cable/whatever_its_called. Spins much more freely but after 23 years not surprised. Reinstalled the front wheel and gave 'er a spin.

Thunk. Thunk. Thunk.

??

Took everything off and spun the speedo sensor by hand, all good. Reinstalled the axle and wheel (no sensor or calipers or spacers). Spun the wheel.
Thunk thunk thunk

It's in the same place of rotation every time, right wheel the valve stem passes a certain point of rotation.

So it's gotta be a bearing. Right?? Dunno what else it could be. Axel is straight and unbent, just double checked that.

Bit of a pisser as they're BRAND new. Means I must have installed them incorrectly somehow. €%*]£~>!!!!!!

Have a spare set of bearings somewhere, guess I'll knock out the old-new ones and install the new-new ones. If it still knocks then what? Bad rim? That'd suck major donkey balls.

Input/other suggestions anyone? It's going to be a couple weeks until I get to work on her again. Which a) kinda pisses me off and b) means suggest away. Please.
Validation, other things to check, tell me I'm an idiot, all fair game.
Installed bearing wrong, not far enough in, too far in, needs greasing prior to install, used too much force...
Doesn't have to be 1100 specific folks. If you've installed wheel bearings on anything before please chime in.

[loneraider]

As you most likely know those two front wheel bearings are
different sizes and that little one the odd ball is $$$.


#09262-17034 B1 17X42X13 BEARING

#08123-63037 B1 17X47X14 BEARING






Is there any chance when installing them one of the bearings dropped down
below when you were sliding the shaft through? maybe give you that thump.

[92xjunker]

FUk€!!!

Grrrrrrrr

Front wheel bearing is shot. Disassembled and greased up the speedo sensor last time I got to work on the bike. Today cleaned and greased up the linkage/cable/whatever_its_called. Spins much more freely but after 23 years not surprised. Reinstalled the front wheel and gave 'er a spin.

Thunk. Thunk. Thunk.

??

Took everything off and spun the speedo sensor by hand, all good. Reinstalled the axle and wheel (no sensor or calipers or spacers). Spun the wheel.
Thunk thunk thunk

It's in the same place of rotation every time, right wheel the valve stem passes a certain point of rotation.

So it's gotta be a bearing. Right?? Dunno what else it could be. Axel is straight and unbent, just double checked that.

Bit of a pisser as they're BRAND new. Means I must have installed them incorrectly somehow. €%*]£~>!!!!!!

Have a spare set of bearings somewhere, guess I'll knock out the old-new ones and install the new-new ones. If it still knocks then what? Bad rim? That'd suck major donkey balls.

Input/other suggestions anyone? It's going to be a couple weeks until I get to work on her again. Which a) kinda pisses me off and b) means suggest away. Please.
Validation, other things to check, tell me I'm an idiot, all fair game.
Installed bearing wrong, not far enough in, too far in, needs greasing prior to install, used too much force...
Doesn't have to be 1100 specific folks. If you've installed wheel bearings on anything before please chime in.

Hell, ship it here I'll take care of that for ya... Definitely sounds like. Bad bearing, too much lateral load? Sealed bearings? Seal facing out? (Plastic ring)

[shpielers]

17" conversion so they aren't the OEM bearings anymore. But thanks anyways Loneraider!

Junker: they are sealed bearings and yes plastic tab is facing out wards on both. I was going to pull the seal and check them before I knock them out. Figured a look-see won't hurt anything at that point.
I don't think it would have been caused by too much lateral load, I didn't go gorilla when torquing the axle down. Could have though.

At the gf's tonight so didn't have a chance to look for that spare bearing set. I'll be home tomorrow evening and dig them up so next time I have wrench time I'm ready.

[92xjunker]

It may not have been the torque but the bearing thickness vs OEM thickness 1/16-1/8" is a lot when torqued. Had an issue with the rear wheel once, it was the bearing being slightly thicker than OEM

[katanarider]

It may not have been the torque but the bearing thickness vs OEM thickness 1/16-1/8" is a lot when torqued. Had an issue with the rear wheel once, it was the bearing being slightly thicker than OEM

I agree...I had my center spacer cut perfect by a machinist on a lathe. When I installed my bearings, I noticed they did not spin freely as I expected. I tapped the bearing out ever so slightly and it spins ok now. However, I've not torqued the axle down yet; I may encounter drag when I do... That clunking sound could be caused by your center spacer being cut at a off angle. In other words, if your spacer and bearing are not locked 100% and its slipping every time the wheel spins and it hits the high spot it will knock.

[shpielers]

Hmmmm...never thought about either of those. I'm pretty sure the bearings are the same width, checked them with calipers before install. But I cut the spacer by hand with a dremel. I ground it pretty flat, but there's no garunteed it's perfect. When I knock out the bearings in there I'll late a look at that. Thanks for the pointers/suggestions guys!

[shpielers]

Got to play around the other day. Turns out that the spacer wasn't cut perfect. Also one of the new bearings didn't come greased from the factory. But the other one did. And that's the one I checked...didn't get a chance to put everything back together though.

[tic]

You know? I have a mint condition 92' Kat 1100 that I've been thinking about tearing down and re-doing everything on it just because it's 23 years old.. After reading every post in this thread? I think I'll pass.. WAY too much work for me.. I've kept up on maintenance and everything works as it should so I'm just going to leave well enough alone.. Great info on this thread though for anyone tearing into their kat.. thanks shpieilers