Headlight Burning Out

[oleshka2000]

Since last season Ive been having an issue with my headlight burning out. I went through 3 bulbs now. Reading through some past threads I decided to check the voltage at the bulb and the battery assuming the regulator/rectifier is malfunctioning. The readings I got were a little under 14.5v at the battery @5000rpm (which I believe is normal) but at the headlight I am getting nearly 17v (16.2-16.8) at the same rpm. If the problem is with the regulator/rectifier wouldn't the battery be overcharging as well? If its not the reg/rec than what could be causing the spike to the headlight?
I'm considering tearing down the bike and replacing all the wiring though I'm not sure how burdensome a task like that can be or if its even advisable.
On the other hand if it is indeed the alternator that needs to be replaced I found one on ebay for a good price. I did a quick search and seems like the alternator from a 96 model is the same as the 90-600.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Katan...bf96a7&vxp=mtr

Also, I saw several threads saying the headlight connector tends to burn. Would that somehow cause more voltage to be pushed to the bulb or would it just not work once it burns out?

Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions would really help. Thanks!

[katanarider]

You have 3 slots/terminals in the socket. Do you have voltage on 2 of them at all times even when you switch from hi to low beams ? You can test for a ground short circuit by placing the positive lead of your volt meter in the negative terminal of the socket, then place the negative lead of your volt meter on the battery ground.

EDIT: Most of your electronics power supply goes through the key switch before it branches out. Katanas , if not all bikes are known to develop issues caused by the ignition switch.

EDIT AGAIN
Don't forget to test the voltage at the fuse box too...duh

[92xjunker]

Alternator issue for sure...17v is way too high

89-97 Kat alternator should fit but, first check the signal to the rectifier ( orange wire ) should read actual battery voltage. If not that is the issue.
Test that battery also.

[oleshka2000]

You have 3 slots/terminals in the socket. Do you have voltage on 2 of them at all times even when you switch from hi to low beams ? You can test for a ground short circuit by placing the positive lead of your volt meter in the negative terminal of the socket, then place the negative lead of your volt meter on the battery ground.

EDIT: Most of your electronics power supply goes through the key switch before it branches out. Katanas , if not all bikes are known to develop issues caused by the ignition switch.

EDIT AGAIN
Don't forget to test the voltage at the fuse box too...duh

The switch seems to be working fine - only have voltage to one terminal at a time. For the ground loop I got a reading of 0.01. I'm guessing 0 is what it should be but I have a very cheap multimeter so Ill attribute the .01 to that. At the fuse box I got a 14.35-14.4V reading at each fuse @ idle (~1000rpm). I rechecked the headlight voltage at idle and also got 14.4V which is still high since the bulb is rated for 12.8V.

Alternator issue for sure...17v is way too high

89-97 Kat alternator should fit but, first check the signal to the rectifier ( orange wire ) should read actual battery voltage. If not that is the issue.
Test that battery also.

I couldn't figure out how to get access to the orange wire that goes to the rectifier. Is it just the battery positive lead? I'm gonna take the battery to autozone sometime this week and have them do their thing.

[92xjunker]

No, it's not the same it runs threw the fuse box to the rectifier. You may have to puncture the casing with a test probe.

[oleshka2000]

Oh ok Ill have to get back to it on Monday but thanks for quick replies.

[katanarider]

I tested my Kat1100 at the wiring harness plug. Just stick your probe into the back side of the plug without actually disconnecting the plug. You should see a tiny piece of metal the wire attaches to.

[oleshka2000]

So I read the voltage on the orange wire and I'm getting between 14.25 and 14.4V and the battery is reading 14.4-14.45V. These readings are at idol though should I be testing it at 4-5k rpm?

[92xjunker]

Yes bring up the idle, 3k should be enough.

[oleshka2000]

Alright I'm back at it again... Autozone tested my battery and it gave a 100% all good reading charged to 12.67V. I took the readings at ~3k RPM and got the following:
14.63V across the battery
14.55V on the orange wire
14.57V at the headlight

The battery readings seems a bit higher than it should for charging voltage. I guess my next step is to swap the alternator unless you guys have any other suggestions.

[katanarider]

All those voltages look right on target in my opinion. Its when you get in to the 15v zone you need to be worried about the battery boiling over. 17v is definitely to high, but 14ish is right on. Are you sure your volt meter battery isn't good instead ?

[92xjunker]

Agree, if you have HID LAMPS install time delays so you not cycling the lights during start. It has been an issue when people install them on bikes.