[IhmeJanneFIN]

IhmeJanneFIN, for some reason I thought of this cartoon when I was admiring your handy work.

Thanks

05RedKat600
Has it been confirmed working yet? I'm concerned about the different diameters of the two parts, and how the ball will contact the pads, if at all. Keep us posted.

Well, atleast every gear and neutral are found when I tested with resistance meter.. And I did strech the spring a little bit so it pushes the pin against the switch.. Pin seemed to be long enough so there is no risk of it falling from its hole.

Today i'm gonna do some more modification to make sure it stays on proberly. Thanks goes to Kreylyn who gave good advice, but I test first another kind of way to secure it better in place, what doesn't involve dismantling what I have build so far..

[IhmeJanneFIN]

Hmm, a little problem occured because of my BIG front sprocket.. If I'd be using stock size, or even 17 teeth there would be no problem, but because I have 18 teeth (yes, 18 teeth), so it hits a little bit on my new neutral switch.. Probably when driving, chain would "eat" the plastic away..

Btw.. I'm not going back to stock atleast, so much better mileage on bike with that sprocket..

Here's few pics..

[il_ragazzo]

um... why don't you just get a smaller rear for the same effect?

Try a 16 front and a (X- 6)tooth on the rear... solves the clearance issue and still grants you the gas saving gear ratio.

Let X be defined as the tooth count on your current rear sprocket.

the idea behind this is -1 tooth on the front is "Roughly" equal to +3 teeth on the rear. you could count up your teeth and use this formula (Y_1/X_1)= (Y_2/x_2).

where Y_1 (read Y sub one) is equal to your 18 tooth counter sprocket.
while X_1 = current rear tooth count. you can play with that formula to find a reasonably sized counter sprocket with the corresponding rear sprocket tooth count for that given ratio.


(Who ever said you"ll never use all that math!?)

[IhmeJanneFIN]

il_ragazzo um... why don't you just get a smaller rear for the same effect?

Try a 16 front and a (X- 6)tooth on the rear... solves the clearance issue and still grants you the gas saving gear ratio.

Let X be defined as the tooth count on your current rear sprocket.

the idea behind this is -1 tooth on the front is "Roughly" equal to +3 teeth on the rear. you could count up your teeth and use this formula (Y_1/X_1)= (Y_2/x_2).

where Y_1 (read Y sub one) is equal to your 18 tooth counter sprocket.
while X_1 = current rear tooth count. you can play with that formula to find a reasonably sized counter sprocket with the corresponding rear sprocket tooth count for that given ratio.


(Who ever said you"ll never use all that math!?)

I have used this program to calculate gear ratios.. http://www.gearingcommander.com/

Don't want to chance sprockets and/or chain yeat because they are still in good shape (read: don't have the money ), planning to chance them next winter to 17 and 42..

But back to my clearance issues, I think I got them sorted.. I will put few spacers behind the front sprocket so it moves about 2mm outwards and away from the way of neutral switch.. As you can see in the previous photos its just hitting it, so moving it that little cleared it.. Also putted right tension to chain, clearance started to look enough.. (See pic) I know it is very very close, but chain cannot move any closer to switch, only further.. And chain also seems to be going still straight.. (pic) There is also some more aluminium to keep switch in place..

I will test run that it clears to be okay, but if it still hits it, mayby try putting some more spacers behind sprocket, and if that doesn't help, throw whole thing to carbage..


"Clearance" about 2mm note also new piece of aluminium..


Chain..

[05RedKat600]

Um, you can't just space the front sprocket out dood. That throws the alignment of your front and rear sprockets off, and you're going to eat both the chain and another sprocket. I can see your chain is tweaked in your pictures. Not a good solution at all.

[GSXFJim]

Um, you can't just space the front sprocket out dood. That throws the alignment of your front and rear sprockets off, and you're going to eat both the chain and another sprocket. I can see your chain is tweaked in your pictures. Not a good solution at all.

You have to space the rear out the same amount you spaced the front out, aluminum is not gonna cut it for this either. And if I remember correctly the splines on the C/S come out just past the C/S sprocket, you want all the splines on the sprocket mating with all the splines on the shaft.....

you'd also need a spacer ring that centers itself on the carrier and also has a centering ring for the rear sprocket. Plus as close to the SA as your chain is now.. the chain may rub the SA.

your making a whole lotta work outta this.. you should have just sold the wrong one and waited for the correct one.. and been done. just my 2 cents.

[IhmeJanneFIN]

Well, as we can see, this time this thing called "SISU" was stupidity.. BUT, there would have been none of those sprocket problems if I'd be using stock sprocket, so my original idea was working, and it seems to be keeping oil in, but I did manage to buy myself the correct switch.. So when it comes, gonna switch that on..

[scottynoface]

your making a whole lotta work outta this.. you should have just sold the wrong one and waited for the correct one.. and been done. just my 2 cents.

Seriously...

You're willing to eat a $100 chain and $75 sprockets over a $60 part? Not to mention the safety issue of just spacing the front sprocket out...

Come on man...

[IhmeJanneFIN]

Seriously...

You're willing to eat a $100 chain and $75 sprockets over a $60 part? Not to mention the safety issue of just spacing the front sprocket out...

Come on man...

Come on to you too.. My first motorcycle this bike to me, so quite new to these big bikes so my knowledge is not that good in that kind of stuff, but it's great that you guys lighten me here...

Ps. that's my first suzuki on left.. so it's kind of a big leap from 50cc to 750cc..

[BareKat]

On other thing that may be a concern is the pin and spring if the neutral switch does fail.

Could it fubar the gear selecting mechnisim?