What are they ? Mine's had a 25A main since I got it , but the "new" box I got came loaded with 10's . Could be another reason why my connection's half-melted .... I ain't got mah book here , and I spent several minutes searching .
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A'right, what bike are we talking about? I've got the manuals in pdf.
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That's right, you've got an 1100 engine in a 750 chassis, right?
According to Haynes, for the pre's, main fuse is 25A, everything else is 10A.
According to the FSM, for the 1100, all fuses are 10A and there's a 30A circuit breaker.
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By running a lighter fuse you only run the risk of blowing the fuse. My guess is that the higher amperage fuse on the 1100 has to do with the expectation that you may be pulling a maximum current draw through the ignition while trying to adjust the windshield. You'll be OK with the 25A. Just clean up the connectors, apply dielectric grease to the connections, look for (and fix) any corroded wire ends and solder everything. I'm a real big fan of soldering rather than trying to get by with crimp-on connectors. I've actually seen fires from crimp-ons.
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Bit late buy yeah, it's 25a for the main and then 10a for the other circuits. My observation on the fried and melted components... it's more about the poor/corroded connections generating resistance than anything else. A loose connection that vibrates will cause the connectors to form an electrical blocking coating on them causing this issue as well.
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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