89 katana 1100f - sidestand / neutral switch ..?

[dalthen]

Bike runs fine but will cut out and die on a bump or sometimes putting it in gear.

Runs fine in neutral and on the center stand.

Sidestand switch shows 0.600 v continuity with the stand up, 0.0 stand down.

Neutral switch reads bout 6 ohm in neutral, 1200+ ohm in gear.

Pulled the neutral switch off and there is a little groove worn in the switch cover from the pin/spring.

Any advice?

[kevin2502000]

Just because your side stand switch measures good doesn't mean the spring or alignment isn't bad. Try to by-pass the switch and test ride it to see if it eliminates the problem. The neutral switch shouldn't do anything except turn the green light on.

[dalthen]

looking at the wiring diagram I can bypass the sidestand by ground it, right?

I kinda figured the neutral switch would only affect the starter circuit, which is why I suspect the stand switch. Thanks.

[kevin2502000]

looking at the wiring diagram I can bypass the sidestand by ground it, right?

I kinda figured the neutral switch would only affect the starter circuit, which is why I suspect the stand switch. Thanks.

Without knowing exactly what type of switch your 1100 is I am only guessing. The plunger type work where the plunger completes the circuit when the kick stand is up compressing it. So to by-pass that type, unplug and jump the wires going into the harness.

[distort2static]

Hopefully this is of some help. As far as the bike dying when its put into gear, I found on mine that besides the bike dying, the sidestand diode became very hot, to the point of melting the original harness for it. This was caused by the grounding point for the sidestand relay (normally through the sidestand switch, which I jumped out) was undersized for the load and once it heated up a little it could not carry the current required to pull in the relay and in turn was completing the circuit through the diode to the clutch switch and ultimately to ground. Once the bike is put into gear that parallel circuit path is eliminated and the sidestand relay opens, cutting the spark. I pulled the dark green wire from the sidestand relay and combined it with the #12 AWG that plugs in at the battery terminal to ground the rest of the components and it eliminated the problem completely. The diode is no longer getting hot and everything seems to be working better than it ever has.