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  • #16
    Originally posted by BarMatt80 View Post
    the tip sensor isn't one that you will see unless you knew what you were looking for. They usually are on the subframe near the brake light.

    but your test light, how are you connecting? positive to negative on the battery? if so and it is doing what you say, then you have some problems. DOn't know what they would be, but it should never cut off, maybe if you have a bad ground, not sure.

    multimeters are cheap, and also you need a manual. Someone can point you toward one here on the site.

    found it: http://katriders.com/wiki/index.php5...Service_Manual

    well appears it doesn't have a tip sensor. other than checking with a multimeter instead of looking at the main 30 amp fuses, that is all i got.
    it near the rear brake on the back or up by the gas tank? and idk its this thing you poke into wires and it lights up if its a constant 12 volt...

    it has a clip you ground first...and ill check for that tip sensor other than that im lost as hell lol
    2000 Katana- vance and hines exhaust 03+ rear end, 14/48 sprockets, stage 1 jet kit, 5 degree ignition advancer, WANT B12 HEADER

    1997 S10- 3/4 drop on 20 inch rims, tinted tails, shaved doors, tailgate, antenna, 12 inch orion sub with 1200 watt orion amp, hvac controls relocated in glove box, sony head unit with infinity components, smoothed and painted dash parts, chrome window cranks and shifter, too much to list

    Comment


    • #17
      ok so here is where i am when i put the test light on the battery with key off it lights up but when key is on it doesnt...

      the ignition wires the two redones light up, the green connector under the gas tank, has one red wire and it lights up (all this is without the key being turned on)

      on and there is only one yellow wire on the main fuse or the entire bike rather and that doesnt light up(idk if its supposed 2) but yeah thats where i am...
      2000 Katana- vance and hines exhaust 03+ rear end, 14/48 sprockets, stage 1 jet kit, 5 degree ignition advancer, WANT B12 HEADER

      1997 S10- 3/4 drop on 20 inch rims, tinted tails, shaved doors, tailgate, antenna, 12 inch orion sub with 1200 watt orion amp, hvac controls relocated in glove box, sony head unit with infinity components, smoothed and painted dash parts, chrome window cranks and shifter, too much to list

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by 2000GSXKatana View Post
        ok so here is where i am when i put the test light on the battery with key off it lights up but when key is on it doesnt...
        I am not following you on this one?

        What exactly are the two ends connected to? the clip to the negative and the sharp end on the positive of the battey?

        “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by BarMatt80 View Post
          I am not following you on this one?

          What exactly are the two ends connected to? the clip to the negative and the sharp end on the positive of the battey?
          yes thats what i meant

          oh and i made a new discovery the green connector under the gas tank near the topthat goes to the ignition the positive wire was frayed and had bare metal showing, i taped it up but nothing happened...

          wierd thing is that the end closes to the battery of the connector works with key on or off, but the one side when connected only works with key off...what could this mean?
          2000 Katana- vance and hines exhaust 03+ rear end, 14/48 sprockets, stage 1 jet kit, 5 degree ignition advancer, WANT B12 HEADER

          1997 S10- 3/4 drop on 20 inch rims, tinted tails, shaved doors, tailgate, antenna, 12 inch orion sub with 1200 watt orion amp, hvac controls relocated in glove box, sony head unit with infinity components, smoothed and painted dash parts, chrome window cranks and shifter, too much to list

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by 2000GSXKatana View Post
            yes thats what i meant

            oh and i made a new discovery the green connector under the gas tank near the topthat goes to the ignition the positive wire was frayed and had bare metal showing, i taped it up but nothing happened...

            wierd thing is that the end closes to the battery of the connector works with key on or off, but the one side when connected only works with key off...what could this mean?

            if you are connecting from negative to positive on the battery, and it goes off when you turn the key on. I am not sure. It should ALWAYS work. I think maybe the only way it would do what your saying is bad ground, but i am not sure on this. or dead battery

            the schematics i am looking at only has 2 possible green wires on the bike, and those are involved in turnsignals and side stand.

            Also shows 2 yellow going to the main fuse block(the one without the 30 amp), and 1 red going to the ignition switch. Also looks like should be 1 orange and another orange striped ,no yellows.

            got pictures of what your working with?

            and to be correct, you turn the key on and absolutely nothing?
            Last edited by BarMatt80; 04-26-2009, 12:50 PM.

            “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by BarMatt80 View Post
              if you are connecting from negative to positive on the battery, and it goes off when you turn the key on. I am not sure. It should ALWAYS work. I think maybe the only way it would do what your saying is bad ground, but i am not sure on this.

              the schematics i am looking at only has 2 possible green wires on the bike, and those are involved in turnsignals and side stand.

              Also shows 2 yellow going to the main fuse block(the one without the 30 amp), and 1 red going to the ignition switch. Also looks like should be 1 orange and another orange striped ,no yellows.

              got pictures of what your working with?

              and to be correct, you turn the key on and absolutely nothing?
              sort of, the clip is hooked to a ground and the light come on if i touch the battery no matter what but when its connected to the green connector up near gas tank and i switch key on, it does not, HOWEVER when i disconect the connector the light stays on even when i switch the key on...

              the red wire(the only positive one) on the green connector was frayed showing bare metal, i taped it up but idk it still doesnt work...when i touch that light to it it lights up ONLY with the key on...ill take a picture in about 5 mins of the connector and you can tell me...
              2000 Katana- vance and hines exhaust 03+ rear end, 14/48 sprockets, stage 1 jet kit, 5 degree ignition advancer, WANT B12 HEADER

              1997 S10- 3/4 drop on 20 inch rims, tinted tails, shaved doors, tailgate, antenna, 12 inch orion sub with 1200 watt orion amp, hvac controls relocated in glove box, sony head unit with infinity components, smoothed and painted dash parts, chrome window cranks and shifter, too much to list

              Comment


              • #22
                taping a wire won't fix anything unless it was touching something to short it out. if it was bare wire out in the open, no harm. but it needed taped anyways.

                i would suggest starting from the battery and working to the ignition switch(how it should be done anyways).

                see if you have power with key on and off at the starter relay/main fuse block(the one that has a 30 AMP fuse in it), test the wire coming in and going out of that relay/main fuse, then test the red wire from there to the ignition, testing on each side of each connector you come to. should always be power there.

                also have you tested or just looked at the fuses? always got to start with the easy stuff

                also check the connectors where the california fan would be, make sure they are not touching anything metal, heat shrink or tape them up.

                “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by BarMatt80 View Post
                  if you are connecting from negative to positive on the battery, and it goes off when you turn the key on. I am not sure. It should ALWAYS work. I think maybe the only way it would do what your saying is bad ground, but i am not sure on this. or dead battery

                  the schematics i am looking at only has 2 possible green wires on the bike, and those are involved in turnsignals and side stand.

                  Also shows 2 yellow going to the main fuse block(the one without the 30 amp), and 1 red going to the ignition switch. Also looks like should be 1 orange and another orange striped ,no yellows.

                  got pictures of what your working with?

                  and to be correct, you turn the key on and absolutely nothing?
                  here are the pics


                  this is the connection with both connectors

                  this is the bad one, the red wire my finger is on was frayed, i put electrical tape on it, thats the one thats messed up i think

                  this is the other connector, the red wire works with key on or off

                  this is the test light on the battery, this is the one i have lol

                  thats where it is ground so you know its not a ground problem


                  this help at all?

                  Originally posted by BarMatt80 View Post
                  taping a wire won't fix anything unless it was touching something to short it out. if it was bare wire out in the open, no harm. but it needed taped anyways.

                  i would suggest starting from the battery and working to the ignition switch(how it should be done anyways).

                  see if you have power with key on and off at the starter relay/main fuse block(the one that has a 30 AMP fuse in it), test the wire coming in and going out of that relay/main fuse, then test the red wire from there to the ignition, testing on each side of each connector you come to. should always be power there.

                  also have you tested or just looked at the fuses? always got to start with the easy stuff

                  also check the connectors where the california fan would be, make sure they are not touching anything metal, heat shrink or tape them up.
                  all fuses are good and i have power at main fuse power wires key on or off
                  Last edited by 2000GSXKatana; 04-26-2009, 01:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
                  2000 Katana- vance and hines exhaust 03+ rear end, 14/48 sprockets, stage 1 jet kit, 5 degree ignition advancer, WANT B12 HEADER

                  1997 S10- 3/4 drop on 20 inch rims, tinted tails, shaved doors, tailgate, antenna, 12 inch orion sub with 1200 watt orion amp, hvac controls relocated in glove box, sony head unit with infinity components, smoothed and painted dash parts, chrome window cranks and shifter, too much to list

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    follow the main red wire from battery up to that green connector, then from that green connector to the ignition. if it checks out all the way from battery to ignition switch, even with it on/off, then start tracing from the ignition switch. But got to do the first part to know your getting power.

                    “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by BarMatt80 View Post
                      follow the main red wire from battery up to that green connector, then from that green connector to the ignition. if it checks out all the way from battery to ignition switch, even with it on/off, then start tracing from the ignition switch. But got to do the first part to know your getting power.
                      that connector goes to the ignition switch and that one wire doesnt work with the key on, but when not connected to the bad connector, the light lights up when touched to the batery or the red wire on non messed up connector...so its either that wire or the ignition switch? that thing looks like a ***** to replace lol
                      2000 Katana- vance and hines exhaust 03+ rear end, 14/48 sprockets, stage 1 jet kit, 5 degree ignition advancer, WANT B12 HEADER

                      1997 S10- 3/4 drop on 20 inch rims, tinted tails, shaved doors, tailgate, antenna, 12 inch orion sub with 1200 watt orion amp, hvac controls relocated in glove box, sony head unit with infinity components, smoothed and painted dash parts, chrome window cranks and shifter, too much to list

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        ok, disconnect the connector, test the red wire in the green connector. turn key on and off, you should always have power.

                        hook the connector back up, and then now test the red wire somewhere between the green connector and the ignition switch. turn key on and off, should always be power. then do same test right as you get to the ignition switch.

                        if it works right all the way from battery to ignition, you either got bad ignition switch or some other parts

                        “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by BarMatt80 View Post
                          ok, disconnect the connector, test the red wire in the green connector. turn key on and off, you should always have power.

                          hook the connector back up, and then now test the red wire somewhere between the green connector and the ignition switch. turn key on and off, should always be power. then do same test right as you get to the ignition switch.

                          if it works right all the way from battery to ignition, you either got bad ignition switch or some other parts
                          well i did all you said already and this is my results,

                          i have power with the key off when the thing is connected, but not when on, i have power with it disconnected(battery side) with key on and off BUT i dont have power when its connected and the key is on so would that be back connection on the connector? or that red wire? or does it mean i need a new ignition switch?
                          2000 Katana- vance and hines exhaust 03+ rear end, 14/48 sprockets, stage 1 jet kit, 5 degree ignition advancer, WANT B12 HEADER

                          1997 S10- 3/4 drop on 20 inch rims, tinted tails, shaved doors, tailgate, antenna, 12 inch orion sub with 1200 watt orion amp, hvac controls relocated in glove box, sony head unit with infinity components, smoothed and painted dash parts, chrome window cranks and shifter, too much to list

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            i wanna thank everyone who has helped me here and a special shout out to barmatt80 for the knowledge and patience i really appreciate it
                            2000 Katana- vance and hines exhaust 03+ rear end, 14/48 sprockets, stage 1 jet kit, 5 degree ignition advancer, WANT B12 HEADER

                            1997 S10- 3/4 drop on 20 inch rims, tinted tails, shaved doors, tailgate, antenna, 12 inch orion sub with 1200 watt orion amp, hvac controls relocated in glove box, sony head unit with infinity components, smoothed and painted dash parts, chrome window cranks and shifter, too much to list

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              sounds like switch if that is what changes it.

                              but let some others chime in.

                              “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                i called bike bandit and they dont know what im talkin about lol so i guess imma call suzuki to get a part number
                                2000 Katana- vance and hines exhaust 03+ rear end, 14/48 sprockets, stage 1 jet kit, 5 degree ignition advancer, WANT B12 HEADER

                                1997 S10- 3/4 drop on 20 inch rims, tinted tails, shaved doors, tailgate, antenna, 12 inch orion sub with 1200 watt orion amp, hvac controls relocated in glove box, sony head unit with infinity components, smoothed and painted dash parts, chrome window cranks and shifter, too much to list

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