[StevieB]

One point about 'puter fans:

You can get all you ever need, free. They hardly ever go out while on computers, and with planned obselesence having somehow become a virtue in computers, there is a steady supply.

I say strap 'em on with nylon tie-wraps and change 'em when you need to.

[Black_peter]

Since it will probably come down to mounting it on (instead of across) the cooler, which is better...push or pull?

Here's the specs in PDF for it. It gives the static pressure if that helps in the calculations.

How are you going to mount it on but not across the cooler.
I think CP is right there might not be enough room to mount it to the side.
What about the top? That wouldn't be as good but better than blocking the cooler IMO.. Pulling might be better if you can fit it back there.. That would reduce the blockage.. Since I have little faith that much air gets through the cooler anyway..

[Ian]

Because im anal....

I come up with approx 31 mph....

7" less 1.875 (1 7/8) = 5.125"

handy little calculator http://www.capron.com/ProjectDocumen...s/FPM_CFM.html

gives you approx 2775 FPM @ 397 CFM (on 5.125" pipe)

VERY handy little conversion program (feel free to use, i use it EVERY day): ATTACHED...EDIT not attached, exe's and zips aren't allowed...link to my home webserver: http://xtreme-hobbys.com/uploads/convert.exe

2775 FPM = 31.5 mph

[Black_peter]

VERY handy little conversion program (feel free to use, i use it EVERY day): ATTACHED...EDIT not attached, exe's and zips aren't allowed...link to my home webserver: http://xtreme-hobbys.com/uploads/convert.exe

That one is nice.. But I have an even better one.. It has transparency so you can have it open all the time. One of the Finns gave to to me, I'll see if I can find the name if your interested..

[Uloset]

If you use Cyberpoet’s oil temp sensor and gauge you could also set the fan to turn on automatically when the oil becomes too hot. I know that on his website it stats that it can be setup with a Trigger Logic Kit, that could be used to turn on the fan when the temperature reaches a certain point.

[squiggy]

Since it will probably come down to mounting it on (instead of across) the cooler, which is better...push or pull?

Here's the specs in PDF for it. It gives the static pressure if that helps in the calculations.

How are you going to mount it on but not across the cooler.
I think CP is right there might not be enough room to mount it to the side.
What about the top? That wouldn't be as good but better than blocking the cooler IMO.. Pulling might be better if you can fit it back there.. That would reduce the blockage.. Since I have little faith that much air gets through the cooler anyway..

Doh...missed that one.

[squiggy]

If you use Cyberpoet’s oil temp sensor and gauge you could also set the fan to turn on automatically when the oil becomes too hot. I know that on his website it stats that it can be setup with a Trigger Logic Kit, that could be used to turn on the fan when the temperature reaches a certain point.

One Bandit rider over at Maximum Suzuki connected his to the neutral switch, via relay, so that when the bike's in neutral, like at a stop light, the fan turns on. Put in in gear fan turns off.

Having it on a switch over ride would be better for winter riding or early morning when the fan doesn't need to be on.

[Black_peter]

Doh...missed that one.

It's OK.. So did CP

[biggusKattus]

Cooling

Anybody thought about a Peltier junction cooler, maybe mounted to the oil pan? Or would the electricity drawn generate more heat (due to alternator drain) than it dissipates. Just an idea, havent researched it yet, but am interested in more cooling for traffic jams.

[The CyberPoet]

I would imagine there would be a lot of issues for a peltier cooler (exposure mostly) and doubt it would shed sufficient heat to make much difference to the Kat, even with a big heat sink attached.

Weirdest silly thought of the night: you could create a total-loss water-based cooling system by using copper pipe connected around the outside of the oil pan with some form of thermal-glue, and have it's open-ends raise up to let the steam out somewhere convenient... Fill with water, when it gets too hot, the water will boil, reducing the temp of the water in the cooler.
And before someone makes a comment about routing the water pipes through the oil pan, Yamaha does that in some of their designs, and I think it's the stupidest thing ever (if the pipe fails while riding, the engine seizing is likely to be your first real warning).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Black_peter]

Weirdest silly thought of the night:

Not entirely:

1 Total loss. I thought about adding a thermostatically controlled mister to the cooler. A tank pressurized by an air horn pump feeds water to a mister head mounted to the back side of the cooler (so it in in a bit of a lee). I may do a patent search on that idea.

2. There is a device called (in translated Finnish) a "heat pipe".
A fluid inside a vessel is heated by the source. The fluid boils and evaps to the far end of the tube where it condenses. The tube contains some kind of baffling to control the two phases a bit. After condensation the fluid runs back to the hot side. Sort of like the "dipping birds" that peck at a cup of water.

http://www.backstreet.demon.co.uk/oddstuff/drinkingbirds/drinkingbirds.htm

3. peltier cooler, hmmm;
Well you have fragility to worry about.
They can require a lot of current.
getting them into proper position for the job might be the biggest challenge. Good contact and heat transfer paste is critical.
Their heating/cooling abilities are rather amazing. Running wide open I have seen them create 1 inch thick blocks of ice out of the fab air (low humidity) So I know they can get below 0C.
I'm not quite sure they have the BTUs needed to make a big difference on high speed, high volume 200 degree oil though.

[Black_peter]

2. There is a device called (in translated Finnish) a "heat pipe".
A fluid inside a vessel is heated by the source. The fluid boils and evaps to the far end of the tube where it condenses. The tube contains some kind of baffling to control the two phases a bit. After condensation the fluid runs back to the hot side. Sort of like the "dipping birds" that peck at a cup of water.

http://www.backstreet.demon.co.uk/oddstuff/drinkingbirds/drinkingbirds.htm

Found a link for those interested..

http://www.cheresources.com/designexzz.shtml

[madkatana]

I'm just gonna buy a liquid cooled GSXR1000, my head hurts, lol

[rwcreigh]

I'm just gonna buy a liquid cooled GSXR1000, my head hurts, lol

[squiggy]

OK, I've have one more question for yous all.

I bought a Kawasaki Ninja 250 radiator fan on ebay a while back that I installed this weekend. My intention was to wire the 12V relay to the neutral switch but, as I found out, the neutral switch only puts out 11 millivolts on the multimeter. 11 millivolts was not enough to power the coil/switch on the relay. So right now I just have it connected to the third eye light's 12V power with a manual switch.

Is there a way to convert 11 millivolts to 12 volts, so that the neutral swich will power the relay?


Right now the bike is still apart ready for me to take the pics so that I can do a "How To" on an electric fan mod. But before I do that I would like to know if there is an answer to my question.