Originally posted by RobertTravis
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Manufacturer branded oil say like YamaLube is usually a blend of conventional and synthetic. You can run any brand blend or straight conventional or synthetic as long as it doesn't contain friction modifiers in it that will make your clutch slip...I don't have the specs to avoid but Google does...
This is just an example: http://www.ebay.com/gds/Top-10-Bike-...5161050/g.html
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Save yourself the headache, make sure it is MOTOR CYCLE oil, wet clutches will not function with car oil. Diesel engine oil will also work, there are no friction additives in diesel oils. Lots of members use it. Spec SF or SG OIL..."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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Originally posted by RobertTravis View PostIt does NOT have to be motorcycle specific oil...
Thats Japenese ....something ....something. I've always heard car oil will strip your clutches. I use Shell Rotella Triple Protection 15w-40, its JASO qualified. Things may be different in the UKMy Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894
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Originally posted by katanarider View PostI'd make sure the back of the bottle says "meets JASO requirements".
Thats Japenese ....something ....something. I've always heard car oil will strip your clutches. I use Shell Rotella Triple Protection 15w-40, its JASO qualified. Things may be different in the UK
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Originally posted by RobertTravis View PostThat's only if it has friction modifiers in it because it will make the clutch slip.
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So, valve clearances... The manual says to turn the engine until the T aligns with the sensor initially so the notches on the cam shafts face away from each other AND the centre of the notches in the shafts align with the mating surface on the cylinder head. When I line up the T mark and sensor the notches are not perfectly aligned. So, which do I line up to set the clearances or what can I adjust to get the notches and T mark/sensor all perfectly aligned please?
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Originally posted by RobertTravis View PostDo you know if the cams were ever removed before? What about aligning the cam marks so they are right can that be done?
I am wondering if you might have an ignition advancer that throws the mark off a few degrees.
I don't know what an ingition advancer is or how I'd know if there is is one, will do some research...
The bike ran fine prior to cylinder 3 not firing properly before I started all this and I'm presuming if this was wrong it'd be obvious when the engine was running? Jist no way to know whether clearances should be set with the sensor mark set right or the cam shaft notches set right 😐
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The ignition advancer looks like the stock part as per the manual. Get the feeling I'm gonna need to dismantle more things and to re align the cam shafts. The ignition advancer bit (assuming stick part is is called that too!) will only mount in one place so I can't adjust it to be in the right place when the cam shafts are aligned.
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Originally posted by Seft View PostNot to my knowledge. If I align the notches on the end of the cams dead centre to the cylinder head mating surface then the TDC marker is not at the right spot on the sensor. It does look like if I was to turn each cam in by one chain link it's be spot on but loathed to do that if I don't absolutely need to.
I don't know what an ingition advancer is or how I'd know if there is is one, will do some research...
The bike ran fine prior to cylinder 3 not firing properly before I started all this and I'm presuming if this was wrong it'd be obvious when the engine was running? Jist no way to know whether clearances should be set with the sensor mark set right or the cam shaft notches set right 😐
Pic of the OEM vs a brand of aftermarket advancer. OEM is Denso branded.
Pic source is from an advance install walk thru.
I don't know off hand if changing the advance would cause the issue, but this way you can at least confirm if it's OEM or not.
Krey
Originally posted by Seft View PostThe ignition advancer looks like the stock part as per the manual. Get the feeling I'm gonna need to dismantle more things and to re align the cam shafts. The ignition advancer bit (assuming stick part is is called that too!) will only mount in one place so I can't adjust it to be in the right place when the cam shafts are aligned.
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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The one on the bike doesn't look like either you posted but is denso branded and as I might have written looks the same as the one in the manual so pretty sure its stock. I've not counted cam chain pins, will check in the manual to see what these should be. If this is set up wrongly what would happen when running, how would I know if it's a problem?
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