[shpielers]

The rubber can get super old dried, brittle, and basically stick to the ports. Most auto stores have new ones super cheap so if you tear them during removal, not a big deal. Once they're off, if any are cracked/sketch looking, I'd recommend replacing. It would suck for something like that to cause a vaccum leak later.

[elsueco]

-1 on the valve sync. What a tremendous pain in the ass. I won't do it again unless something is wrong.

+1 on the redneck bottle method of syncing carbs.

I held off on syncing my carbs for quite a while because I thought I'd need a real manometer and an external fuel tank, but I didn't want to buy and then store these little used tools. I used the fuel tank to deliver gas. I just moved it back a bit, and propped it up on the frame with a piece of 2x4. A couple zip ties mounted it securely.

[shpielers]

[QUOTE=elsueco;2321896]-1 on the valve sync. What a tremendous pain in the ass. I won't do it again unless something is wrong.]

Um...by not adjusting the valves, things WILL go wrong, the type of things that result in a destroyed engine. It's part of the scheduled maintenance for a reason. 1st time is the worst, every time after that is easier as you know what you're doing.

[TRPUT]

The 2+2+2 method is ok up to a point but you will find that when you sync the 2 pairs the balance between either 1&2 or 3&4 will change hence my comment about using the 4 line setup

That's never happened to me yet with the Harmonizer and 2+2+2 method ... and that's after double and triple checking. Nor did it happen with the Motion Pro or home-made manometer. The only times it has happened is with the Carbtune. I put it down to the variables at play in the tool itself and its inherent (albeit minor) inaccuracy. Morgan even state that the acceptable tolerance of the Carbtune (variation between rods heights) is 1.5 mm (and remember, that's not 1.5mm HG). In effect, what that means is that if you adjust the carbs so the rods are all even, your carbs aren't necessarily perfectly balanced. They're probably within the 20mm HG Suzuki specify, but liquid or electronic synchronizing will be more accurate.

[Lykkan]

I use 2+2+2 and if I'm paranoid I go back and check the first 2. infared temp reader on manifolds is most accurate way to assure proper calibration on all carbs. +/- 25 degrees and you're good to go

[TRPUT]

infared temp reader on manifolds is most accurate way to assure proper calibration on all carbs.

Yeh, the temp sensor would be a great tuning aid to get all parameters in synch.

[Kreylyn]

The 2+2+2 method is ok up to a point but you will find that when you sync the 2 pairs the balance between either 1&2 or 3&4 will change hence my comment about using the 4 line setup

Never had that happen, and I always go back and verify.

That's never happened to me yet with the Harmonizer and 2+2+2 method ... and that's after double and triple checking. Nor did it happen with the Motion Pro or home-made manometer. The only times it has happened is with the Carbtune. I put it down to the variables at play in the tool itself and its inherent (albeit minor) inaccuracy. Morgan even state that the acceptable tolerance of the Carbtune (variation between rods heights) is 1.5 mm (and remember, that's not 1.5mm HG). In effect, what that means is that if you adjust the carbs so the rods are all even, your carbs aren't necessarily perfectly balanced. They're probably within the 20mm HG Suzuki specify, but liquid or electronic synchronizing will be more accurate.

I use 2+2+2 and if I'm paranoid I go back and check the first 2. infared temp reader on manifolds is most accurate way to assure proper calibration on all carbs. +/- 25 degrees and you're good to go

+1. I always check to make sure I did things right the first time, but have yet to see a change by syncing the pairs together.


Krey

[J///Kidd]

OK. Got the carbs and everything hooked up. Got her running and warmed up except now, I can't get the RPMs below 5k!!!! WTF!!!!

What did I do wrong?

[arsenic]

Make sure the throttle cable is routed properly and not holding the butterflies open.

[Lykkan]

And I assume you attempted to adjust the idle screw?
also make sure there's no vacuum leaks.

[J///Kidd]

Make sure the throttle cable is routed properly and not holding the butterflies open.

That was the issue! For whatever reason (seems to be routed properly), the throttle cable was holding the butterflies open. Made an adjustment up at the handlebar and everything settled down. I'll take a crack at it today. I need to get some restrictors for the vacuum lines of my carb sync tool because the needles were all over the freakin' place.

Sidenote: bike started! bike ran! and bike sounded NICE at high RPMs!

- so I didn't screw anything up too bad..

As always, thanks for the help!!

[Lykkan]

good call arsenic

glad you got the bike all set ride safe

[J///Kidd]

Just wanted to send a "THANK YOU" to all who helped via advice/suggestions posted as well as the wealth of information throughout the rest of this site (CARBS 101, CARBS 102, several searches, etc.).

Got everything on, carbs sync'd and running exceptionally well!!!! Once I understood what I was doing, it actually went pretty well.

• thorough carb cleaning, inside and out
• new gaskets
• checked and set float levels
• new fuel lines
• new vacuum lines
• new float and cap screws (stainless)
• complete carb sync

Bike fires up as she should, choke works as it should, throttle response is CRISP and DAMN!!!! – does she run well now!!!

It is amazing that the gradual degradation of performance that has slowly happened throughout the years. And now everything is BACK!!!

I remember the feeling of how fast the bike felt when I first got it. I felt like it just wanted to go and didn't really care if I remained on top of it or not - it would be just as happy letting me slide off the back.

I figured over the years I had gotten used to the power/acceleration and it no longer seemed as dramatic. Well...that is not the case. After the carb work that I just did, I still get that "DAMN!!!" feeling when I wind her out. Though I'm a much more experienced rider now, she is back to impressing the hell out of me!

Again, thanks to all for being that "security blanket" I knew was there if/when I had any questions.

[Lykkan]

Just wanted to send a "THANK YOU" to all who helped via advice/suggestions posted as well as the wealth of information throughout the rest of this site (CARBS 101, CARBS 102, several searches, etc.).

Got everything on, carbs sync'd and running exceptionally well!!!! Once I understood what I was doing, it actually went pretty well.

• thorough carb cleaning, inside and out
• new gaskets
• checked and set float levels
• new fuel lines
• new vacuum lines
• new float and cap screws (stainless)
• complete carb sync

Bike fires up as she should, choke works as it should, throttle response is CRISP and DAMN!!!! – does she run well now!!!

It is amazing that the gradual degradation of performance that has slowly happened throughout the years. And now everything is BACK!!!

I remember the feeling of how fast the bike felt when I first got it. I felt like it just wanted to go and didn't really care if I remained on top of it or not - it would be just as happy letting me slide off the back.

I figured over the years I had gotten used to the power/acceleration and it no longer seemed as dramatic. Well...that is not the case. After the carb work that I just did, I still get that "DAMN!!!" feeling when I wind her out. Though I'm a much more experienced rider now, she is back to impressing the hell out of me!

Again, thanks to all for being that "security blanket" I knew was there if/when I had any questions.

Good to hear. What jet kit and what size jets you running? Just curious

[J///Kidd]

No kit. Everything is stock.

After 20 years, they just needed a good break-down and cleaning. Everything (for the most part) looked to be in pretty good shape. There was some debris in the float bowls and I'm sure the good soaking in Berryman's really cleaned out the jets and needles and opened up all those tiny little holes.