Dyno Run

[Jcates888]

My mechanic was doing free dyno runs today, so I found out my 03 Kat 600 is running too lean. He said dyno tuning it (estimated $400) would result in a smoother ride and better MPG.

Anyway, max power was 66.50 :/


Any ideas how many MPGs I might gain if I have this done? I generally average around 40mpg, not using a ton of throttle.
Any other thoughts? Anyone else have their 600 kat on a dyno? Similar results??? Just curious.

[c-rod90]

get a print out? how lean?
any intake or exhaust changes made?

and that's really not a bad number, esp if it was lean. fattening it up might give you a couple extra hp/tq. that's about what I've found for most stock 600's. the 750 is like 78whp or thereabouts.

[Jcates888]

Oops, I thought I attached it. I guess it was too large of a file. It's there now.

I have a Stage 1 Jet kit installed and Yoshi exhaust (I'm 95% sure it's a slip-on). He said they should be able to get it pretty close to 70hp.

I'm guessing I couldn't expect MPGs to increase more than 2 or 3 at best... right? I have heard a few others here say they get 50mpg though, but most seem to be right around 40 MPG as I am.

[TRPUT]

MPG depends a lot on how you ride, gearing, fuel quality etc., as well as your tuning. But a 600 is capable of much better mileage than you're returning, if that's a concern.

I "dyno tune" my 750 myself by temporarily installing an AF meter and then taking it for a series of runs at different throttle settings, but in the real world. If I ever get my camera set up, it will be even easier. Then I tinker with what is adjustable in the carbs, and test run it again. I'm actually doing it now after a full service with valves etc. My initial experimental settings were just a fraction too rich, but I still ran 49 MPG with a mix of freeway and tight hill runs. I'll fiddle again during the week 'til I get it spot on (which will pretty much mean putting everything back where it was before I decided to fiddle.. Pre service, it was spot-on. How's that saying go ?... "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!")

All up, the meter cost about $240, including having the bung welded to the exhaust. For that $240, I can do as many "dyno runs" as I want. OK, it can't deflate my balls by showing how much HP I have, but if the AF ratio is right, the HP will take care of itself.

[Jcates888]

A couple times on a long, straight highway tour last year, I got up to 48 MPG when I filled up right off the highway and ran until having to fill up right off the highway again. So I know it can vary a lot based on how I ride. I mostly ride highway, probably about 1/3 city riding, but that still seems to leave me at roughly 40 MPGs, and that's with new PR3s that I'm ensuring have proper tire pressure... which I wasn't doing before.

It's really pretty rare that I crank the throttle though, and when I do, it's only very briefly such as to get ahead after a red light. I just replaced my chain and sprockets, but stayed with stock 15/47 because I didn't want to lose torque nor hp. As for fuel quality, I always stick with major name brand gas stations, usually Shell or sometimes WaWa.

Unfortunately, I'm not at all mechanically inclined and have no clue how to adjust or tune anything (except I did successfully adjust my chain myself for the first time a week or so ago! ), so I have to pay $100/hour for a reputable mechanic to do anything to my bike.

It has about 24,000 miles, so valve adjustment was about 9k miles ago. I've never had the carbs cleaned though, but it also never sits more than a couple weeks once or twice a year, since I ride through winter. I think the last owner said he cleaned the carbs, but that was more than 2.5 years and 20k miles ago.

I guess I'd like to have my bike (carbs, right???) tuned/adjusted for best possible mileage, but I don't want to give up torque or hp. Is that possible? Feel free to laugh at my lack of understanding , but I am learning; albeit slowly, but surely.

[shpielers]

My stick 600 gets 50 mpg. ~90+% highway miles. If I ride 2 up or twisties I get ~45.

Download the service manual and start reading the how to's and you can learn a lot of the basics. You're definitely due for a valve adjustment. Daunting at first but honestly the hardest part is getting everything off. I'm doing mine tomorrow. I'm slow but including carb syncing and plastics on/off...5 hours. Others will do much faster.

If jumping into valve adjustments 1st thing is intimidating, start with smaller easier jobs to gain some confidence - oil changes and brake bleeding for example. Take the fairings on/off a few times just to learn how. Sync your carbs.

With your current set up you should be able to make a few more hp just by having everything cleaned/adjusted. But it's a Kat. If you really want to add power...buy a GSXR. As Truput said though, balance A/F mixture and mpg takes care of itself. Both have room for improvement on your bike. After its up to spec, not a whole lot you can do to add power or mpg. 5 degree advancer won't hurt your mpg, changes the power band a bit though. Changing sprockets will make the biggest difference - I just went down to a 44t rear - don't notice any less oomph, but my speedometer reads accurate now

[Jcates888]

I thought valve adjustments were every 15k miles???

[shpielers]

Posts are a little more frequent than 15k - tappet/screw style, not shim under bucket.

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=68883

[TRPUT]

I thought valve adjustments were every 15k miles???

Officially with screw adjusters, they are more frequent. The link says 7500 miles and I have heard 8000 miles mentioned. Here, it's 12000 kms. However, I did mine at 8000 kms, and just checked them at 29000 kms (only because I have an 8000 km trip coming up, not because they sounded or felt like they needed it). 21000 kms is about 13000 miles. They were all well within spec and had hardly moved ... but they are now again set exactly at 0.1 mm and 0.2 mm. I won't be checking them again for 30000 kms.

There are 3 factors here. 1) I'm very OCD when I set them - they aren't "in range" ... they're exactly where I want them. 2) I don't flog the bike, so my 30000 kms is equivalent to someone else's 12000 kms. And 3) I keep the carbs tuned and balanced.

[Jcates888]

I just got another copy of the "printout" (it was e-mailed, so I guess it's not really a "printout" haha) showing more detail... see attached.


I guess my bike is running rich up high and lean down low.