[Frozt]

I managed to find a used head that was complete with cams, valves, cover. The cams came with the cam holder bolts lightly installed (figured it was done that way to prevent damage/ease of removal of cams for install).

I used the water method to do the leak down on the new head. Since the cams aren't completely installed, the valves are held in place by their springs. I had no water leaking past the valves.

I did have a couple of questions. I've used the search and read what I cam across.

Firstly, do I need to get a gasket for the timing cover / signal generator cover.
Next, looking over the manual (which doesn't have a detailed picture) it seems the middle of the timing mark on the signal rotor and the other leg pointing directly at a little dot straight up. Does this sound correct?
Next, I went looking for the rubber mat above the cam cover. It seems to reduce heat and protect the wiring in that area, but for me, the gas tank seems to be rather warm (not hot and not air temp).
Next, is the gasket between the head and cylinders metal or fiber?

My last and biggest question is this: Before I ran into this problem, I was lucky to get near 80 miles to the tank, not gallon. And when I get off from a long day of riding, I can always smell fuel. I haven't a clue where it would be coming from. The carb's are not leaking, I had to move them to get the cover out and when I adjusted them to correct for the slip-on and altitude change.

[wfrpalm]

Not to mention I did the whole MMI thing with Suzuki and Kawasaki programs. I'm familiar with top end jobs, it'd be easy to swap one out. But I'd like to get the opinions of others here. You guys have more knowledge.[/QUOTE]

[Frozt]

Not to mention I did the whole MMI thing with Suzuki and Kawasaki programs. I'm familiar with top end jobs, it'd be easy to swap one out. But I'd like to get the opinions of others here. You guys have more knowledge.

[/QUOTE]

lol. Thanks for quoting me and my knowledge. But as anyone can tell you, each bike is different. Each person is different.

And, MMI does not teach anything about older bikes. The oldest thing that was available as far as imports was 2006. Which is right around the change of the gsx series.

To answer myself:
1. A gasket is very preferable over a liquid sealant. MMI instructors will say never to use a liquid sealant.
2. As far as timing and again having to referance the lack of older bikes and timing, most of the stuff I got to time in MMI had a mark on the stator which was lined up with a mark that was cut in the housing.
3. As I found through the search, it is recommended to keep the heat mat.

I can't answer the metal or fiber question, again referance MMI. Most of the 06 and up had a metal gasket between the head and top of cylinder. As for my last question, I asked it cause I have no freakin clue. I could attribute the loss of fuel to: Too rich (wrong, spark plugs are golden), Too rich (wrong, no carbonizing on the exhaust), fuel leak (possible: not in oil, not from float bowls and not from fuel line. Somewhere else), someone is siphoning it out (possible, but how when I was riding cross country), carbs need sync (already done), fuel tank cap (seal was replaced prior to purchase from PO. I forced the issue as they needed the money to get home). So, someone, please, why am I losing fuel?

[blitz2190]

most likely not it but, if you look under you bike do you see any puddles? if so there may be a hole in the breather tube that goes through the center of your tank. leaking into oil ( but you said you checked it). also the petcock itself can leak around the rubber o-ring sometimes.

[Frozt]

most likely not it but, if you look under you bike do you see any puddles? if so there may be a hole in the breather tube that goes through the center of your tank. leaking into oil ( but you said you checked it). also the petcock itself can leak around the rubber o-ring sometimes.

You bring up a very good point. I know, again, every bike is different. The drain plug for my airbox fell off about a year ago, I really haven't had a need to replace it just yet. So it might be going in to the airbox but falling out the drain hole and simply evaporating.

[arsenic]

That plug NEEDS to be there. If it's not there you will have a vacuum leak. I was under the impression that your bike running like shit was a good enough reason to replace it.

[skjeflo]

Without that airbox drain line plug you are drawing unfiltered air into the carbs. Also, you would be running lean due to the air not being restricted as it should by the filter.

^^^^^^ Yeah, what he said ^^^^^^