So I managed to get my 98 750 running but the carbs are overflowing.the petcock had a problem with and inner seal that ended up having been destroyed so I replaced that and it stopped my fuel problem. Now I can start the bike but the carbs leak out of the excess drain area, not the gasket area. Anyways I am pretty sure my needles are seating correctly. As per manual, the floats have to be 13mm. Does that mean 13mm when extended or when contracted all the way up or down? Thanks for help I'm still a newbie
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Originally posted by Stumpy View PostI'll leave carb float questions to those who know a lot more than I do - but if fuel is coming out your carb overflows, and the bike is upright - I'd say they are stuck well open.
Carb rebuild and oil change for you!
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Well, you haven't cleaned your carbs or set them properly, which is why they leak.
You need an oil change because all that fuel which has drained out your carb overflows, has also leaked into your crankcase. Checked your oil level recently?
All that needs to be removed, replaced, fixed and sorted.
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Originally posted by Stumpy View PostWell, you haven't cleaned your carbs or set them properly, which is why they leak.
You need an oil change because all that fuel which has drained out your carb overflows, has also leaked into your crankcase. Checked your oil level recently?
All that needs to be removed, replaced, fixed and sorted.
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Ok so you are unsure about float height, and don't know where O-rings go - but yet you are absolutely positive you have cleaned your carbs.
http://katriders.com/wiki/images/8/8f/Carbs102a.pdf for you!
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Originally posted by Stumpy View PostOk so you are unsure about float height, and don't know where O-rings go - but yet you are absolutely positive you have cleaned your carbs.
http://katriders.com/wiki/images/8/8f/Carbs102a.pdf for you!
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The small o-ring is either from the vacuum port under the plastic tops to the carbs or from the a/f mix screw. make sure the o-rings on the float assemblies are in good condition and seated. If you don't want to keep changing the oil I would suggest when your ready to test your setup; set the carbs on the ground and your gas tank on a chair or similar setup and set the tank to prime. If gas leaks anywhere, you still have a problem.
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Honestly - I'm not being condescening, and I'm sorry that you felt that way. It really is simply that your carbs are not set up properly, and no adjustment of anything else will make the slightest bit of difference until the carbs are set up to spec.
The simplest solution here is to contact Arsenic and get a new set from him. Problem solved.
The cheapest solution here is to take them apart again, and go through everything, paying attention to the smallest detail. Problem solved.
I can't help you any more than that.
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So I reassembled if and I believe the problems is the screw wells(?) I ended up stripping several screws during the process and although they tighten some do not get to a point where they stop turning if that makes sense. I think I can fix this by going up slightly on the size of the screw and replacing the bowl orings.
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you'll need to drill and tap the holes for new screws, you may be able to just tap the new hole size, be careful pot metal cracks easily, use allen cap screws."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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Originally posted by Stumpy View PostYou'll also need to take the head off and fish out all the metal shavings you've just dumped into the engineMust read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html
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Definitely sounds like a float problem to me. My float bowl screws also got severely stripped (I have not the slightest clue as to why these screws were so tight) and I had to dremel a slit to use a flat head to get them out. I bought 8 M5 x 12 allen head screws to replace the horrible malleable original screws. Direct fit (Might be M6, just double check, but I'm pretty sure it's M5).1995 Suzuki Katana 600F
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