Oil weight Vs. Wet Clutch

[marine_corps]

Ok, I am at work so this will be very brief. Recently I have riding and noticed that at higher rpms my clutch slips and I lose power. The bike so far is at 9,000 miles total. Its strange, I am a decent rider, I never mistreat or dump the clutch. I was recently looking at some complete clutch kits online. The one that I have seen all say "not" to run synthetic oil. The previous owner of the bike always ran synthetic, as do I. I change the oil every 1,500 miles. I run 10W-40 Synthetic. I have reason to question my oil choice. I am not sure what to do.

[teddy]

all 16,000+ miles of my bike have been run with 10w40 synthetic with zero issue. Now, the question is, did you use a regular automotive 10w40 synthetic, or did you get a bike-specific oil for wet clutch apps?

[muffinman]

Now, the question is, did you use a regular automotive 10w40 synthetic, or did you get a bike-specific oil for wet clutch apps?

+1

[marine_corps]

Now that I think of it, automotive Mobil 1 10W-40.. I am going to buy a new clutch and flush the motor of oil. What oils should I run with the new clutch?

[teddy]

I use Mobil 1 Racing 4T. I used Spectro synthetic oil before that I would get from the m/c shop. The Mobil1 is just easier to get ahold of. Castrol also makes a 4T synthetic, and Valvoline makes a non-synthetic 10w40 suitable for wwet clutch applications. I'm sure others will also chime in with things like Rotella and the like...the main thing you need to look for is the JASO-MA rating on the bottle.

[Aimbot9000]

also unless your oil is turning black that fast you can double your change interval. if it is then you have bigger issues then a slipping clutch

[TRPUT]

My tight-arse (time and money) suggestion ... drop the car oil and throw in a cheap dino MA rated oil to flush the engine, adjust the clutch and see if the clutch begins to behave. If that fixes the problem over a few rides, then drop that oil and go back to a synthetic MA rated oil. And yes, a proper MA rated true synthetic oil will run a lot longer than 1500 miles - well beyond the recommended 4000 mile intervals because that was set based on crappy SG rated dino oil. If you're gunna dump it that often, just run a dino oil.

[muffinman]

When I had the same problem I just ran some cheap oil though it then went back to a motorcycle specific oil and the slipping went away. I ran two courses of the cheap stuff within a couple hundred miles.

[marine_corps]

So many options. I am not to sure how to adjust the clutch. Perhaps I could dump the oil and put some dino in it. Maybe at the same time try to adjust the clutch so that it is somewhat tighter.. Still debating, runs fine as a daily for now. I just can't open it up.

[teddy]

just do two oil changes 100 miles or so apart and see what happens without doing anything else, it may get the glaze back off the plates and be fine...change what you know is wrong first, then make other adjustments.

[Rebel]

I agree with all the others change first and see what it does, Good luck! And I use either Mobil 1 4T full synthetic or Castrol 4T full synthetic witch ever they have when I need the oil, and I have heard of lots of people I know use Amsoil.

[blitz2190]

you can use just about any designed for a wet clutch, it will tell on the bottle if its for a wet clutch, also make sure to avoid any with friction modifiers as im guessing is what caused your issue, reducing friction on a clutch is a little conter productive haha.