[GSXFJim]

...no venting to the oil cooler ...

Huh?

Every kat oil cooler is right there.. the only way it's getting any more open is if you put it in front of the forks..

[Stumpy]

There is no cowling to force air through the fins, in fact there is a downwash from the forks. Not good

[kat astrophe]

well there is enough air flow for the bike to go from 180 deg doing 25 for to long to 150 doing about 45 mph, so im gonna say it does just fine where its at

[Kreylyn]

Looks awesome to me... great job man.

And... you won't see a difference in cooling from the cowling. They are there for aerodynamics, but designed to not decrease cooling. They won't really improve cooling and certainly are not nessasasry.

The hundreds of no fairing model bikes that are built exactly the same way might attest to that.

Krey

[GSXFJim]

There is no cowling to force air through the fins, in fact there is a downwash from the forks. Not good

As Krey mentioned, the stock body work dosent force air into the cooler, and I doubt the minimal down wash from the forks would have any effect.. you're over thinking it... jmo

[shpielers]

I'm not a fan of street fighters generally, but you did a good job, I'm digging this one!

[kat astrophe]

Thanks

[92xjunker]

If your doing the valve adjustment buy a shim kit, the lower size kit, a magnetic reach tool to remove and set the shims, just makes it easier, a micron gauge to measure the old shims that the size etching has worn off, install with the sizing facing down for future adjustment ease and a feeler gauge. not hard at all, when setting gaps aim for mid scale as close as possible across the valve trane set. The valve cover does come out of the top, be patient, the front fasteners are a bit of a pain to get to. you have to remove the cables from the carbs. I have found that if you rotate the engine backwards slightly the cam chain tensioner will set it's self to proper tension, forcing slack to the tensioner side of the chain.

[KatKrak]

Your bike looks fantastic man , I'm diggin it. Nice work

[kat astrophe]

Thanks Katkrak

[FinallyGotMyKat]

OEM... main jets are 112.5. 137.5 are WAY bigger.

Stage of the kits is based upon over all setup... a combination of exhaust, engine, and intake. Not just the jets used. You use the jet size that works for your setup.

Stage 1 = basically factory setup with maybe a slip on exhaust.

stage 2 = race exhaust (not an aftermarket street exhaust, but a real honest to goodness race system.)

stage 3 = High flow intake setup + Race exhaust + (for a kat, nessasary) some minor engine modifications like swapping cams...

Krey

Where did I go wrong?

I thought doing to performance mods would be straight forward if I just followed the instructions, but what u tell us above makes me think it takes a little more thought, and planning, than that.

On my '06 600, I added a Yoshimura RS-3 with the low volume insert, a K&N air filter and a DynoJet Stage 1 jet kit.

The jet kit came with 110/114/116/120 jets and says use the 110 jets for all stock, 114 for aftermarket exhaust and add 6 if using a K&N air filter. Since I am using all of them it seemed to make sense to use the 120.

And it says to set the AF screw to 3 turns out.

But when I was done it didn't seem to have anymore get up and go than it did before and when I first get on the throttle it bogs down giving a low throaty exhaust sound and then once I get past maybe a couple K on the tach it sounds normal.

I synched the carbs according to the manual.

And if it is necessary to adjust the AF screw, is there any way to do it with the carbs on the bike?

Thanks

[Kreylyn]

Where did I go wrong?

I thought doing to performance mods would be straight forward if I just followed the instructions, but what u tell us above makes me think it takes a little more thought, and planning, than that.

On my '06 600, I added a Yoshimura RS-3 with the low volume insert, a K&N air filter and a DynoJet Stage 1 jet kit.

The jet kit came with 110/114/116/120 jets and says use the 110 jets for all stock, 114 for aftermarket exhaust and add 6 if using a K&N air filter. Since I am using all of them it seemed to make sense to use the 120.

And it says to set the AF screw to 3 turns out.

But when I was done it didn't seem to have anymore get up and go than it did before and when I first get on the throttle it bogs down giving a low throaty exhaust sound and then once I get past maybe a couple K on the tach it sounds normal.

I synched the carbs according to the manual.

And if it is necessary to adjust the AF screw, is there any way to do it with the carbs on the bike?

Thanks

Ditch the K&N... That is the main step you need to fix.

Then... consider, is your exhaust a full system (from engine to tip of the exhaust can) or was it just a slip on (Can on the back, and maybe midpipe)?

If it's a slip on, then your way to large on the jet size.

With that in mind... you use the best main jet by testing each size at WOT and use the best one with how it performs.

That said... your probably looking at maximum the 114, very probably the 110.

Krey

[FinallyGotMyKat]

I'm not doubting you because I know manufacturers sometimes stretch the truth, but if 110 is right, then what would the purpose of the 114/116/120 jets be?

And what's up with the K&N? I'm sure I made some assumptions about its quality/use based on rumor, but I thought they were supposed to be pretty good.

I can just put whatever jets in the carbs that make the bike happy, but I'd like to understand why I'm doing it.

[Kreylyn]

I'm not doubting you because I know manufacturers sometimes stretch the truth, but if 110 is right, then what would the purpose of the 114/116/120 jets be?

And what's up with the K&N? I'm sure I made some assumptions about its quality/use based on rumor, but I thought they were supposed to be pretty good.

I can just put whatever jets in the carbs that make the bike happy, but I'd like to understand why I'm doing it.

First off, the OEM air filter flows all the air you need. It in no way holds back your engine. Niether does the exhaust. The engine is what holds the engine back.

Your carbs are Constant Velocity Carbs (CV). CV carbs require smooth flowing air through them, and they also need a small amount of back pressure on the intake side.

K&N air filters allow air past way to easily, so the air flow is not smooth, and there is no back pressure at all.

This means lots more air flows through, but lots less fuel flows through. Thus, you end up with lean mixes. And that changes drastically when moving and additional air forces are added to this mix (moving down the road = alot of air turbulence.) The reason your seeing the bike run now with the overly large jets is because the K&N is leaning it out (making the a/f mix equivilent to smaller sized jets with the proper air flow), and it will do that even more so when the bike is moving down the road. Enough that multiple people have seen the bikes acutally have a significantly reduced "top speed" of like 80mph. This is the point when the air forces externally from speeding down the road over come the jets and just flat out leans things out too much for the engine to run.

You want to know what larger jets are for? Well... Factory Pro is a significantly better producer of Jet kits. They don't even offer a jet kit for your bike with larger jets than 1 size over stock. The reason? They aren't needed, and don't work for your bike. So ultimatley, the jets from Dynojunk is to make you think it's "something" to increase sales of their jet kits.

Could you use them? Sure... after some significant engine work. At the least higher duration cams (from like early model GSXR engines) so that the engine would actually take in more air/fuel. Other engines could be potentially bored, ported, polished.... post kats not so much. The cylinder walls that would be bored out to increase the over all CC of the engine for more power (and thus use a little more fuel too....) are coated with a special coating that would need to be replaced... and it's prohibitively expensive.... so much so that it's just not done. It's significantly cheaper to just buy a larger engine.

With out an engine swap, or major engine rebuilding/reworking... there is no reason for the jets larger than the DJ114s... and those are probably too big for your exhaust with the proper air filter.

Krey

[FinallyGotMyKat]

Excellent explanation. Thanks for educating me.

The K&N came with a low velocity ring. Do you think swapping this for the large velocity ring could save it from trash can?

If its not obvious I'm trying to find a way out of trashing a $90 air filter.