Replacing Cam Chain Spring, a few questions

[xredjokerx]

Hey guys,

I replaced the cam chain spring on my 90 600 today. I couldnt remove the entire assembly without removing this oil line.. is that normal? (the picture is from a picture i found on the forums)

So, I didn't and just replaced the spring. Seemed really noisy on a 15minute ride so I'm not sure if I should redo it and remove the oil line to remove the entire assembly or if I am okay... I did stick an allen wrench into the hole, but it was tight when I stuck it in.. Would a new spring cause a lot of noise? Its not whining as much as it is clunking... any ideas?

also to get to those bolts, i think i have to remove the carb boots on cyl 3 and 4

[mammut89]

it sounds like the tensioner has not yet compressed to where it should. When I changed my spring it took a week before it became perfect. I guess the fluctuations in reving up and down made it tighten further. but if it sounds dangerous you should disconnect the assembly and take a look and see if it moves freely.

[92xjunker]

should not be noisy, Here is what i do; once installed push the plunger in with an allen wrench or screw driver ( don't use great force ), install the spring and retainer, rotate the engine over by the signal generator nut (right side of the engine under cover) then rotate the engine backwards slightly ( less than 1/4 turn to drive the slack toward the tensioner, be careful here rotating to far could cause damage to the starter/gears) you may hear the tensioner click at this point. rotate the engine 1 full turn, reinstall the signal cover, start the engine. you may here some light ticking, that is normal for these motors.

[xredjokerx]

should not be noisy, Here is what i do; once installed push the plunger in with an allen wrench or screw driver ( don't use great force ), install the spring and retainer, rotate the engine over by the signal generator nut (right side of the engine under cover) then rotate the engine backwards slightly ( less than 1/4 turn to drive the slack toward the tensioner, be careful here rotating to far could cause damage to the starter/gears) you may hear the tensioner click at this point. rotate the engine 1 full turn, reinstall the signal cover, start the engine. you may here some light ticking, that is normal for these motors.

when I put an allen wrench into the hole like the picture shows, it was tight and did not click no matter how much force i put, so I just put the spring back in and torqued the retainer to 25.5ftlb

[92xjunker]

when I put an allen wrench into the hole like the picture shows, it was tight and did not click no matter how much force i put, so I just put the spring back in and torqued the retainer to 25.5ftlb

Thats because the chain was under tension between the sprockets at the tensioner, try rotating the engine backwards 1/5-1/4 turn. see if that works, it does for me. rotating the engine backwards places the tension on the exhaust side of the motor, slack on the tensioner side.

[xredjokerx]

Thats because the chain was under tension between the sprockets at the tensioner, try rotating the engine backwards 1/5-1/4 turn. see if that works, it does for me. rotating the engine backwards places the tension on the exhaust side of the motor, slack on the tensioner side.

wouldnt that just make it excessively tight if it is already too tight right now?

shouldn't i reset it...? Do i need to take out the entire assembly to reset it?