Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.
X

Startup - cranks then "seizes", only to crank again

Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Startup - cranks then "seizes", only to crank again

    Hey guys, appreciate your assistance. Sorry for the long post.
    Recently picked up an '02 600. LOVE IT. It runs *great*(once started).

    It seems to have 2 non-related problems starting, always after an overnight sit in the garage:

    1) Starts to energetically turn-over, then "seizes".

    2) Choke doesn't work

    Issue 1: Appears random. Starts to turn over, headlights appear bright, cranks with energy, then eerp! It "locks up". Not a slow die, but instantaneous. If I hit the starter button again, it remains locked up, like the engine is siezed. No clicking, but there is a starter noise as if it's going to turn it over but it doesn't. Sometimes, however, after pushing the button again it does crank over, rapidly, and leads to a start (but since issue 2 is vexxing, I have to start it sans choke and so it takes a lot of cranking, usually 4 or so 4-second runs). Often if I leave it sit for 10 minutes, it'll turn over again and sometimes start, sometimes re-seize. It does this whether it's in neutral or 1st with the clutch lever pulled. Randomness is that sometimes it cranks and doesn't seize. Most times it does.

    I've tried to push start it, but it skids the tire rather than crank the engine (if I attempt after it abruptly stopped turning over).

    I decided perhaps the battery was bad despite a 12v multimeter reading. Bought a new one and it cranked superbly for the first two startups, never seizing -- thought I had it solved until the third startup attempt, then seized. I rode for a long time after each prior startup to recharge the battery.

    Note, once the bike is warm, even if it's sat for 30 min after a ride, it turns over great and always starts (with no choke).

    (?) Perhaps there's some backpressure from the cylinders or the clutch that forces an abrupt stop?

    (?) Perhaps the alternator is not recharging the battery and has led to battery #2 losing startup amps and there's no backpressure but rather the cold oil simply causes it to abruptly stop rather than slow crank?

    (?) Or perhaps the starter motor is bad, but just good enough to turn it over sometimes?


    Issue 2

    Moving the choke lever, even slightly, causes my running bike to instantly stall, whether warm or just started cold. Moving the lever when attempting to start a cold bike causes it to not catch (assuming it's turning over, per issue 1). I can crank and crank and it doesn't fire.


    Note, after sitting overnight the garage smells of evaporated gas. Not overwhelmingly, but the odor is present. I've looked around with fairings attached and cannot see leaks or liquid. There's no puddles below the bike, ever.



    * Not mechanically inclined, but good at reading/following instructions. Would rather not pull gas tank & fairings unless I have to -- so if there's some further diagnostic I can do to narrow down, lemme know.
    "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." - Albert Einstein.
    "Everything should be made as simple as possible, with the exception Kat carbs, which should be of infinite complexity." - lowmaintenance

  • #2
    I would suggest checking your starter is properly bolted in, and the bolts are properly torqued. If it "binds" up, it can stop it all. It will bind if not properly tight.

    As for the choke issue... it sounds like your running very rich. If your starting the bike up no problem without the choke lever being used and from a cold start... it's overly rich.

    Hopefully they aren't related... cause overly rich and "locking up" the motor generally means hydrolock... and that is bad.

    Krey
    93 750 Kat



    Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

    "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

    Comment


    • #3
      Running rich...hadn't thought of that. I figured it would likely have something to do with the raw fuel smell. But makes sense. However, I am getting 50mpg despite being a heavy guy (think two-up equivalent). And I've not seen any discernable smoke. But when I roll to a stop at a light there is often a heavy exhaust smell, like as if there's an exhaust leak (but I've looked and cannot detect any). Could that be from running too rich?
      "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." - Albert Einstein.
      "Everything should be made as simple as possible, with the exception Kat carbs, which should be of infinite complexity." - lowmaintenance

      Comment


      • #4
        +1 on Kreylyn...

        Fuel tap on "RUN"?....if running rich the exhaust will be stronger in smell and @50mpg is reasonable
        I'm outa here

        Comment


        • #5
          Fuel tap is on "run".

          Any thoughts other than starter motor bolts loose? Not discounting that one, but it looks like the carbs would need to be pulled to check it. Could it be alternator not charging battery?

          BTW, when I cold start it with no choke, it's about 80 degrees where I'm at (SoCal) and it cranks for four seconds, no catch. I stop, wait a moment, crank again, it catches and dies, repeat until it starts on fourth or fifth attempt. Is that unusual for a no-choke start, i.e. still sound like it would need to be rich for that to occur?
          "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." - Albert Einstein.
          "Everything should be made as simple as possible, with the exception Kat carbs, which should be of infinite complexity." - lowmaintenance

          Comment


          • #6
            Go check your oil level, is it way over full? Smell like gas?
            Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

            Comment


            • #7
              Kevin, I'll check the oil in just a bit. Just started it for the first time today and put a voltmeter on it.

              Off = 12.76

              On but not started = 11.98

              Starting = 10.86

              Idle = 13.58

              4500 RPM = 14.26

              Temp approx 75 and cloudy. No choke used. Twist throttle 1/8 to 1/4 open. Cranked for 5 seconds, no seize, caught but didn't sustain. Cranked second time for 5 seconds and it caught, ran for 2 secs, stopped. Cranked a third time and it caught and ran fine. Been idling during this write-up so I'll go check the oil momentarily.

              Kevin, the inspection window, once cleaned, is completely filled darkbrown-black from the inside. It is too full. That's on the center stand. I tried off the stand while balancing it upright and got the same reading. On the sidestand it's below the low tick, so I know the glass is good.

              I didn't get an owners manual. I found and downloaded the service manual this morning from the wiki.
              Last edited by lowmaintenance; 10-21-2012, 06:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
              "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." - Albert Einstein.
              "Everything should be made as simple as possible, with the exception Kat carbs, which should be of infinite complexity." - lowmaintenance

              Comment


              • #8
                I put a hose on the end of a turkey baster and drew out oil until perfectly centered between F and L in the glass when vertical. The amount removed was 20 ounces, or just under 3/4 quart.

                The oil smells of gasoline and looks dark like espresso. How bad is this?

                I haven't tried to start the bike with the lesser oil amount.
                "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." - Albert Einstein.
                "Everything should be made as simple as possible, with the exception Kat carbs, which should be of infinite complexity." - lowmaintenance

                Comment


                • #9
                  Need to rebuild the carbs, float valves leaking (worn float needles, or rust issue) Do the carb work, also check the tank for rust.

                  Don't try to run the bike anymore until you correct the carb issue, also needs an oil change

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Agreed! DO NOT run the bike until you fix the gas washing problem. I had the same problem of my carbs over flowing gas into the cylinders. This seems to be a common problem on kats. I took my carbs off, took them apart one at a time, cleaned them good and found the rubber tips on the needles were dirty. Put it all back together, put 50 bucks into an oil change, and realized the petcock was leaking gas into the carbs too. I put a universal fuel shut off valve in the line, placed ur so I can access it through the side vent hole in the fairing and problem solved! Talked to the dealer mechanic and he said the vacuum petcock are notorious for causing this and I can replace it at 134 bucks. He said the shut off is a good fix till I replace it. Good luck.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      [ame="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190729291498&ssPageNam e=STRK:MESE:IT"]carburetors carbs Suzuki GSX600F Katana 600 98-06 - OEM jetting[/ame]
                      carburetors carbs Suzuki GSX600F Katana 600 98-06
                      - OEM jetting

                      carburetors carbs Suzuki GSX600F Katana 600 98-06
                      - Factory Pro

                      [ame="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190717564486&ssPageNam e=STRK:MESE:IT"]carburetors carbs Suzuki GSX600F Katana 600 98-06 - Dynojet[/ame]
                      Last edited by arsenic; 10-21-2012, 10:51 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Holy crap batman! That's half of what I paid for the whole bike! Nice though!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yeah, way over priced, that must be why I sell 100+ a year.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Think that's a pretty darn good deal.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Okay, I trust the vets and will do a carb cleaning (I've never changed a spark plug, but your guy's excellent walkthroughs are inspiring). Can you tell me what tools and supplies I need beyond hex set, screwdrivers, sockets and wrenches? The procedure is great, but it would be helpful to have a supplies list. I saw a set of rebuilt supplies that someone formerly sold but now doesn't, including gaskets etc., and I know I need 3M Carb Cleaner and a jet cleaner tool. Anything else?

                              (And I'm not following how a carb gasoline overflow spills gas into a sealed oil reservoir since the carb feeds into the combustion chamber above the piston rings)
                              Last edited by lowmaintenance; 10-22-2012, 12:18 PM.
                              "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." - Albert Einstein.
                              "Everything should be made as simple as possible, with the exception Kat carbs, which should be of infinite complexity." - lowmaintenance

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X