[steves]

Also if anyone has some tips on sealing the holes up I'd be glad to hear it.

The acid wash leaked right through all of that in about 20 minutes.

Tomorrow I'm doing the metal prep and sealing. Hopefully that's not as bad...

We took aluminum foil and plastic wrap, covered the petcock with it, and screwed it back into place. For the other holes, we basically used the same two-layer approach and safety wired it into place.

If you're talking about spots where the tank is rusted through and the acid eating through the tank wall, you're screwed... sorry to be blunt... the only solution is to clear the tank and dry it completely, then reweld it (which in my book means cutting it open, sanding/grinding it, then welding up material from the inside and finally rewelding it shut & pressure-testing it) -- which makes sense for a tank you can't get a replacement for any more, but doesn't make sense for a tank you can easily replace. I know the guys over at EmpireGP.com can do this kind of work for you, but I doubt it would be cost-effective compared to simply getting a replacement tank.


Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

No, I meant the openings for the gas fill and the fuel sensor. The petcock didn't really leak at all, it's the large openings that I was having trouble with.

I'll give the foil/plastic wrap a shot today.

[Darren]

I've used this product on my 87 Kawasaki concours, with a great deal of success.

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm

[The CyberPoet]

I've used this product on my 87 Kawasaki concours, with a great deal of success.

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm

Sounds cool, but I'd be concerned about the long term effect of sealing in rust as a source of future rust-through... Anyone else want to comment on that concept?

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[bamarama]

okay, I found an ebayer parting out a 91 750, and is willing to give a set of carbs and tank. He says the tank is good but needs to be painted and the only thing wrong with the carbs is that the carb where the throttle cable hooks to is missing a piece of the ear where the cable attaches. Is this easily replaced? What do yall think a good price for the combo would be?

Thanks, bama

[The CyberPoet]

Anything under $100 delivered is superb if the tank is in reasonable shape (probably worth double-that with the carbs), and you could take the parts off your existing carbs to fix up his carbs (or visa-versa). Given that you can sell your carbs off again afterwards, this probably won't be as painful as expected...

Just remember to contact Jim first -- he might be able to get you taken care of cheaper. Oh, and remind me why you need new carbs?

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[bamarama]

Anything under $100 delivered is superb if the tank is in reasonable shape (probably worth double-that with the carbs), and you could take the parts off your existing carbs to fix up his carbs (or visa-versa). Given that you can sell your carbs off again afterwards, this probably won't be as painful as expected...

Just remember to contact Jim first -- he might be able to get you taken care of cheaper. Oh, and remind me why you need new carbs?

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

My motor is running kinda rough, with popping at the exhaust at rapid engine deceleration. It was suggested I clean the carbs, but because I live in a condo and only have saturday afternoons (for the next 3 months) to get the bike apart, do what I'm gonna do, and get the bike back together, it would be much easier to get a spare set and do the cleaning a little bit every night and then just swap out with my current carbs.

[Chandracrt]

Hey, along with my Kat, I also own a 87 Ducati 750. I took it to a mechanic for a look see, and the tank was all rust. You CAN NOT SEAL IN THE RUST!! You will be asking for trouble. The sealer grabs onto whatever surface you give it, so it will grab the rust, and chip off when it does, and get sucked into your engine. You need to use acid etch process that will eat the rust... here is a website.... http://www.prp-porshop.com/merchant....y_Code=KitsYou also need to clean you filters, and fuel lines, because the are most likely close to being clogged, mine were at their max. Also, you might wanna looka t anything the fuel contancts, and replace it if its rusty, or it may spread rust like an infection. Good luck!!!

[FTGRET]

I did the tank on my GS700 about 4 years ago with POR15 and have had no problems. I would go with a solid tank and seal before painting as the cleaner will eat any paint it contacts.(don't ask)

[steves]

Hey, along with my Kat, I also own a 87 Ducati 750. I took it to a mechanic for a look see, and the tank was all rust. You CAN NOT SEAL IN THE RUST!! You will be asking for trouble. The sealer grabs onto whatever surface you give it, so it will grab the rust, and chip off when it does, and get sucked into your engine. You need to use acid etch process that will eat the rust... here is a website.... http://www.prp-porshop.com/merchant....y_Code=KitsYou also need to clean you filters, and fuel lines, because the are most likely close to being clogged, mine were at their max. Also, you might wanna looka t anything the fuel contancts, and replace it if its rusty, or it may spread rust like an infection. Good luck!!!

If you check out the link that CP provided above to his website, you'll see that he does say if you are planning to use a sealer, that it must be wet sanded first.

MotorcyleAnchoir.com[/url]]Corrective Action "D" (seal/coat - latex barrier sealant):

Use Kreem or RedKoat to seal the tank, which coats the interior of the tank with a thick latex or latex-like substance. If you use this method, you need to use Corrective Action "A" or "B" first to remove the surface rust! Many users have used Kreem or RedKoat to their satisfaction, but a lot of users have also complained about the product breaking down after a number of months or years, flaking off and clogging the fuel system & carbs (esp. in hot-weather climates). As a result, I don't tend to recommend either these two products, but with proper surface preparation, they should work.

The POR-15 kit is a Chemical Sanding & Conversion, plus hard surface sealant setup.

I'll also add that the inside of the tank looked fantastic after all the chemical washes were done, and the sealer is drying quite nicely.

The most "water proof" way to seal the tank ended up being some glad press-n-seal over the opening, then lots of duct tape over top of that. I ended up with only a tiny bit of dribble from the last rinse, then I replaced all of them again to do the sealer coat.

[The CyberPoet]

I'll also add that the inside of the tank looked fantastic after all the chemical washes were done, and the sealer is drying quite nicely.

Just remember that POR-15 is humidity cured... thus, if you live in a high-humidity environment, you're better off leaving it outside than bringing it into the A/C!

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[bonstrosity]

how'd this thread get awoken from the dead of over a year ago?

[steves]

I'll also add that the inside of the tank looked fantastic after all the chemical washes were done, and the sealer is drying quite nicely.

Just remember that POR-15 is humidity cured... thus, if you live in a high-humidity environment, you're better off leaving it outside than bringing it into the A/C!

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

It's cold here, so it's hanging out in the basement.

[quote"bonstrosity"]how'd this thread get awoken from the dead of over a year ago?[/quote]
I pointed out an outdated link, and it went from there....

[Trigger]

First: I got some rocks and nuts from some big bolts and filled the tank half full of distilled water, a good shaking for 10 minutes and then 3 to 5 minutes rest for 2.5 hours
Second: I just went to Home Depot and got Phosfuric acid and put 2 quarts in and filled the tank with water again. Shake about 5 minutes every hour for 5 hours and drained.
Third: I drained and rinsed for about 3 times and then dumped a bottle of alcohol and shake
Fourth: I opened all the openings that I sealed and shoved a blow dryer in the hole and let it run for about 20 minutes
Fifth: I sprayed about a half a can of WD-40 in the tank to prevent rust til I am ready to use it.

Next time I will go the POR-15 route. If there ever is a next time.

[md86]

Yeah , the old-school method is messy , tiring , and time consuming . But it'll work . I'd used the "bb/carb cleaner" method a few times .