[Wild-Bill]

Thanks! I pulled the trigger on EBC plates and springs. I'm hoping the old steel plates will be fine and will check them before reinstalling. EBC springs are only 10% stiffer than stock springs so they shouldn't be bad for occassional traffic.

Be sure you rough up the steels with some sandpaper before re-installing them.

[Pugga]

replaced the clutch today and the slipping is officially gone. was shocked how easy it was to replace it though.

Which clutch kit did you buy, the Barnetts kit?

Be sure you rough up the steels with some sandpaper before re-installing them.

Thanks, I wouldn't have thought about that and the Haynes manual doesn't mention it.

[Scout]

replaced the clutch today and the slipping is officially gone. was shocked how easy it was to replace it though.

Glad ya got it taken care of.

[TS7X]

[QUOTE=Pugga;2199592]Which clutch kit did you buy, the Barnetts kit?


yep its been great so far.

[Wild-Bill]

I went with the EBC plates last fall and burned them up this month. I don't think there was anything wrong with the plates at all. It was the hydraulic cylinder keeping them from engaging all the way. I'll give them credit, they lasted pretty well for continuously slipping.

When I replaced them last week I went with the Barnett kit. It engages really strongly but in a completely manageable way. Nothing really amazing there. The Barnett springs are noticeably stronger than the stock. I didn't notice that when I installed them but after trying Nut-Nut's clutch I think the PO must have installed stronger springs before I bought it. I'm used to it but Nut-Nut's clutch is definitely easier to use.

[Pugga]

With the clutch replacement, my manual (I think it's a Haynes) says to put a small bit of sealant where the case splits before putting the clutch cover plate back on. What did you guys use for this?

I do have a new gasket but this is in addition to the gasket.

[TS7X]

With the clutch replacement, my manual (I think it's a Haynes) says to put a small bit of sealant where the case splits before putting the clutch cover plate back on. What did you guys use for this?

I do have a new gasket but this is in addition to the gasket.

I use permatex(spellcheck) silicone gasket maker

[Pugga]

I use permatex(spellcheck) silicone gasket maker

Thanks, I'll google it and find a place near me that sells it.

[Wild-Bill]

Autozone, Advance Auto, NAPA, Wal-Mart, wherever. For that job I use the black stuff. #16BR. You don't need or want a big tube since the stuff always seems to clog up way before you can use up the tube unless you're doing an engine rebuild or something where you're going to go through the whole tube in a few days.

Just be sure you're not gooping it on too thick. Spread a thin film and wait a few minutes for it to "skin over" before putting the case cover on. If you wait too long it won't conform to the surfaces and if you don't let it skin over it'll all squeeze out.

[Pugga]

Autozone, Advance Auto, NAPA, Wal-Mart, wherever. For that job I use the black stuff. #16BR. You don't need or want a big tube since the stuff always seems to clog up way before you can use up the tube unless you're doing an engine rebuild or something where you're going to go through the whole tube in a few days.

Just be sure you're not gooping it on too thick. Spread a thin film and wait a few minutes for it to "skin over" before putting the case cover on. If you wait too long it won't conform to the surfaces and if you don't let it skin over it'll all squeeze out.

Thanks for the tip! All my clutch parts are in, plates, springs, gasket, oil filter and fresh oil. I read the manual, seems pretty straight forward. I'm excited to be able to get the bike over 7k RPM's without the clutch slipping!

[05RedKat600]

Autozone, Advance Auto, NAPA, Wal-Mart, wherever. For that job I use the black stuff. #16BR. You don't need or want a big tube since the stuff always seems to clog up way before you can use up the tube unless you're doing an engine rebuild or something where you're going to go through the whole tube in a few days.

Just be sure you're not gooping it on too thick. Spread a thin film and wait a few minutes for it to "skin over" before putting the case cover on. If you wait too long it won't conform to the surfaces and if you don't let it skin over it'll all squeeze out.

lolwut? I use maybe a tablespoon during an engine rebuild. If that.

[TS7X]

Thanks for the tip! All my clutch parts are in, plates, springs, gasket, oil filter and fresh oil. I read the manual, seems pretty straight forward. I'm excited to be able to get the bike over 7k RPM's without the clutch slipping!

My kat felt like a new bike when i replaced my clutch.

[Pugga]

My kat felt like a new bike when i replaced my clutch.

Same here, just got to it last weekend. I went with EBC though, I didn't want the clutch to be too stiff because I spend a fair amount of time in traffic. Since you just did yours, assuming you went through the full clutch adjustment, maybe you could answer a question for me. How much play side to side did the clutch adjustment pin have (the pin behind the rubber cap on the side case). When adjusting my clutch, mine seemed to move quite a bit and I don't know if it's normal or if I need to get a replacement. When I adjusted my free travel, I had free travel, then the first part of the clutch lever action was that pin sliding side to side before turning and actually disengaging the clutch. So, do you have any play in that pin or was it pretty tight?

I made another thread about it but it hasn't gotten much traffic in the last day or so.

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=125960