hello,i was just wanting to know how hard it would be to do a valve job?i do the oil changes my self.i never done this before.i can do things like replace alts and starters,and gaskets.now if i had plenty of money i would not ask this but i need to get this done.if i get a manual and a weekend would someone like me be able to do this?if soo what kind of tools will i need?and parts?thanks
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Ummm, wrong place for a valve job
oops, sorry miss readTDA Racing/Motorsports
1982 Honda CB750 Nighthawk, 1978 Suzuki GS750 1986 Honda CBR600 Hurricane; 1978 Suzuki GS1100E; 1982 Honda CB750F supersport, 1993 Suzuki Katana GSX750FP. 1981 Suzuki GS1100E (heavily Modified) http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94258
Who knows what is next?
Builder of the KOTM Mreedohio september winning chrome project. I consider this one to be one of my bikes also!
Please look at this build! http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192
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-Steve
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If you have the necessary tools and a good four to eight hours to do it the first time, there's nothing there to keep you from being able to do it yourself. It won't take 4 to 8 hours; you just need to build in lots of breaks to make sure you're not rushed and are cool & level headed. If you're in a snow-bound area & parked indoors (garage or in the house, shed, etc), where time isn't a rush, strip the fairings the night before...
You can find the how-to in this thread:
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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A valve job isn't to bad, read the manual, take your time and most importantly double check your measurements when your adjusting the valves.
One thing I always recommend is if you have a digital camera take pics of the wiring and stuff as you take the bike apart. That way if you forget how something is routed you can run inside and check the photo's to make sure you get it right.Kyle
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Nice advice folks.
My take: I just did this myself for the first time. It isnt that bad at all. It takes longer to get to the valves than doing the adjustment. SLOWLY and patiently will get you through it.Um I dont know any wise quotes so go read katansoldiers quote in his signature!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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NOT a beginner job , for sure . Have all your stuff you'll need on hand before you start (goes for about ANY job , really) , and plan on it taking TWICE as long as you expect it to (ALSO goes for about every job ) . I usually allot a whole day for it , and sometimes it takes all day .
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Having just done it for the time I would agree that it is fairly simple. Took about 2-3 hours to adust the valves but probably a couple of hours of preperation.
Only problem I had was finding a spanner to fit the valves adjustment, I think its about 2mm.
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I thought "valve job" meant machine work on the seals, new valve guides, all that sort of major top-end work; but you're all talking about "valve adjustment" which basically just sets the lash. That's briefly described at http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/katana/trinc/valve.htm
A "valve job" is where you take your head to a machine shop.
A "valve adjustment" is something you do in your own garage with hand tools. Not really a beginner job but something you can accomplish with the help of an experienced mentor.
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Originally posted by tzortnOriginally posted by md86Spanner ? I adjusted them with pliers . That's what the book even said to use .
Suzuki part number 09917-14910
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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Originally posted by The CyberPoetIf you have nut-adjuster style valves, why bother? You can get the Suzuki driver tool for about $5...
Suzuki part number 09917-14910
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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The yellow handled tool is the Suzuki tool. The wrench is just a standard wrench. This is what Trinc normally uses.
I also have the Suzuki tool, but I have a set of MotionPro Tappet tools which I used last time (which effectively combine the Suzuki tool and the wrench into a single piece, but also have the attachments for all the nut-adjuster valve types on the market from all the bike manufacturers):
I'm going to try the Suzuki tool next time and see if it keeps me from skinning my knuckles (the MotionPro tool lever is damn short to keep you from over-torquing the nut, but I found the dial-part on top was a PIA to hold reliably -- would be infinitely better with a raised off-set handle welded to it).
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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