Idle kind of hangs

[oberon]

In my prior post I had found that my carbs were out of sync. Made my own sync tool and they should be all syncd up now. Checked exhaust pipes and all were nice and hot. But idle still hangs for a sec or two then it drops down to about 500rpm then dies. Start back up get it to idle at ~1100, give it a twist and the same thing happens. Checked the intake boot for leaks and nothing happened after sprayed down. Also backed the a/f screws out 3 turns any more and it boggs in low rpm. Better than the 2.5 that the instructions state. Was thinking maybe I need to go up on the pilot jets

95 750 with stage 3 dynojet with filter pods.

[wismo]

Maybe lose the pods go to stock air box?

[oberon]

I would just go back to stock air box and stage one kit, but funds are low and I just want to get it running the best I can

[cintidude04]

Your running lean, as said above lose the pods, and probably the stage 3 as well, stage 1 would be fine.

If funds are low why did you put money into s3 an pods? unless you got it that way and then I can sympathize.
You wont get it running as well with that set up as you could with the stock airbox and filter.

[oberon]

Yeah got it that way. Going to try the factory pro carb tuning page to maybe get closer to ideal.

[Kreylyn]

Also backed the a/f screws out 3 turns any more and it boggs in low rpm. Better than the 2.5 that the instructions state. Was thinking maybe I need to go up on the pilot jets

95 750 with stage 3 dynojet with filter pods.

That setup would put the a/f screws at around 4-4.5 turns to get the bike idle right.

Then to adjust the rest of the system, your looking at some serious tuning on things like clipping the slide springs and adjusting the vacuum ports on the bottom of the slides to start with for the response issue your going to have, adjusting the float heights to counter the low end bog you will have, and of course dealing with the pod filters you got that won't regulate the air flow properly at all rpms... so your gonna still have some dead spots or a/f mix variances through the rpm ranges at speeds.

Don't get me wrong... 8k+ and that bike is gonna scream but for lower rpms it's gonna suck to tune and make rideable around the street.

A stage 1 kit with oem airbox and filter will give you much more street riding friendly performance and make it much easier to tune the bike to run right.

<---- 93 750 and tried the pods with stage 3 kit for 7 years, many many multiple tuning sessions with many different shops.... and never got rid of that low end bog entirely.

Krey

[oberon]

Guess I am going to bite the bullet and get another jet kit and stock airbox. I wonder if I can just buy the main jets.
While gettting parts together I may try putting socks on the filters.

[Kreylyn]

Guess I am going to bite the bullet and get another jet kit and stock airbox. I wonder if I can just buy the main jets.
While gettting parts together I may try putting socks on the filters.

Since you have dynojunk... I would strongly recomend you get the entire new kit, and do a FactoryPro kit.

The dynojet kit can be used, but you will need to order specifically dynojet main jets to lower it to stage 1. You should NOT mix dynojet needles with other types of jets... wont' work well for you at all.

Krey

[LAsunbird86]

I turn my idle screw down and my throttle response improves 3-fold.

[oberon]

Well put in the factory airbox and got a set of dynojet mains off ebay for $10 and its like a totaly different bike. Idles like a rock and has mid range power. Thanks guys for all the help!

[arsenic]

The air box is better than pods? I had no idea.